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JanZverina

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Everything posted by JanZverina

  1. Thanks, Tom. I've contacted Gordon and I'll ask Clark's if they'll take their repro switch back.
  2. I'll check the ground wire at the tank as a first step. I had a similar problems with an erratic fuel gauge on my 1960 Electra, and the culprit was a pinched wire in the harness that runs a channel just inside the door sill plates. The wire was being pinched by a metal tab on the lower rear seat cushion, and when there was any weight on the rear seat (not a person but even a couple of guitars in their cases) the gauge wouldn't work. Eventually the light bulb went on (in my head, that is) and I knew where to look. But during the installation of front seat belts in my Riv about 10 days ago, I see that by '63 GM encased the wiring harness to the rear in a flat protector that runs along the floor pan, correct?
  3. Thanks everyone for your helpful responses! I'll contact Gordon.
  4. Yes, before removing that home-engineered ground wire I was blowing the 3A fuse whenever I turned on the parking or headlights. Now the fuse doesn't blow but I have no gas gauge reading.
  5. Another puzzler - I ordered a new door jamb switch from Clark's Corvair. I can contact them tomorrow but I thought someone might know how this is wired. The OEM switch has three terminals and three wires - black with white tracer, purple with white tracer, and solid purple. The Clark's part (see image) has one short yellow wire from ground (one metal spring clip that holds the switch in place) to one terminal. The other terminal is empty. Does anyone know how to wire this replacement switch to the OEM wiring? Thanks!
  6. OK all you automotive electricians, here's a winter's night puzzler for you. The next mechanical project on my '63 Riv (after getting the Dynaflow sorted out) was to get the instrument cluster lights working again. Per Jim Cannon's advice, I first checked both the clock lamp and ignition switch lamp - both nice and secure, no chafed wires and both bulbs working. I then noticed that the previous owner either wired or had someone run a ground wire from the lowest left instrument cluster twist-in socket to a metal dash brace. I undid that, and now I have dash lights -- but no fuel gauge reading (needle is buried below 'E'). Any thoughts? Looks like someone grounded out the cluster to get the gas gauge working, so where would be the most likely place to look for a fix? One other thing: now that the dash lights work, the directional signals and the high beam indicator look like they are glowing dimly with the ignition on, and when I try either turn signal, both indicators flash. Any ideas welcome!
  7. Hi Darren, I've been a San Diego resident for almost 10 years now, but lived near Detroit (in Bloomfield Township) for 19 years before that. I agree with what's said so far, and just a little off topic, one thing I always did for winter storage was to buy a couple bags of Kingsford charcoal briquettes. I'd slice the bags open lengthwise and place them under the car so the briquettes would absorb any moisture from the car's underside. A cheap way to keep a nicely done chassis rust-free.
  8. Hi Dale, I had a spare set which has the push-button latch release which I prefer, but I've always ordered belts from Wesco Performance for my other older cars. I would defer to Rivnut but I think the lift latch belts are correct for '63. He would know if they had the tri shield logo on them of if that came in '64. There's a recent thread on that subject. Nice color Riv! Welcome to the forum and ROA. You've found a very helpful group of enthusiasts here!
  9. I just installed front lap belts in my '63 four days ago. Yes, the mountings have rubber plugs in them, which keep the threaded bolt holes clean. They are easily located if your remove the sill plates and lift up the carpet near the rear of the console. I went to Ace Hardware and got hardened Grade 5 bolts, 13/16th and 1 1/4 inches long, for $2.50 a piece vs. $14.99 per at OPGI. I also used some Loctite Red thread sealer. They took about 10 min. per side to install, including removing and reinstalling the sill plates. I know lap belts aren't exactly the pinnacle of safety systems, but they certainly beat having nothing!
  10. Thanks, TN. I'll try the "thru the ash tray" method and report back. Sounds like laparoscopic surgery to me!
  11. Has anyone done this, and what's involved? Does it require the console to be lifted out? I've been reading another thread on mysterious floorpan holes in a '65 and saw that one is for a attachment screw at the rear of the console. If anyone's changed that rear lens, some guidance is much appreciated!
  12. I've had good success with The Flying Dutchman in Salem OR, as far as rebuilding water pumps. http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/
  13. I'll give you $20 for it. Plus shipping! (only kidding). Guess I'll keep my eyes open for one.
  14. So can anyone tell me why there are reprints made of the '64 and '65 (and up) Riviera owner's manual but not of the '63? Thanks!
  15. Good condition or better, reasonably priced, please. Thanks!
  16. Good or better condition, reasonably priced, please. Thanks!
  17. I'd offer $6000 or $6500 and see if they bite. No harm, no foul. I'm with Bernie - it's not a bad deal at all for the price of admission to a 1st gen Riv. You won't regret it in the long run!
  18. Yes, that's why asking for swatches is always a good first step!
  19. As a first-gen owner myself, I can at least help get you started on some sources for seats, door panels, headliners, etc., unless you're looking for good used parts. One is http://www.opgi.com/riviera/ while the other is http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/pages.cgi?category=buick&dbkey=24&level=1 Yes, you read it right - Corvair - but they have a Riv catalog as well. My advice is to ask for sample swatches in advance. Good interior components aren't cheap, but they are a key component to a good looking installation. Another suggestion is for you to join the Riviera Owners Association - best $ you'll probably spend during the entire restoration. That will give you access to a selection of parts vendors who can be trusted to give you a fair deal, in addition to responses from ROA members on this forum. Good luck in your search!
  20. If this is the Riv that Ed provided a link to, I agree with him that it's probably a '64 -- mostly because of the HVAC controls, as well as the wiper and headlight switch placements. Also, '64s have the small stand-up 'R' hood ornament instead of the 63's flat tri-shield emblem, and '64s have the 'Riviera' script on the right side of the deck lid, while '63s say B-U-I-C-K across the trailing edge of the deck lid. Both those two things could have been easily swapped throughout the years, less likely the HVAC controls, IMO. I really don't know how hard it would be to swap out an entire instrument panel between 63 and 64. One could always ask for an image of the firewall data plate...
  21. Mirko in Rome would have that car looking fine in no time! (See his thread on Me and My Buicks).
  22. Only the'63s have the Buick tri-shield emblems on the rear taillights.
  23. Hi Rufcar, and welcome! If you're buying a '65 Riv or need more info on one before you do, this forum is an excellent place to get some valuable knowledge. Even better is joining the Riviera Owner's Association (ROA) and then being able to access (on the ROA website) some very good tech specs and other info on the first-gen Rivs (63-65) as well as later models. It's the best $ you'll ever spend if you are into Rivs. If you have a firewall data plate that you need to have decoded, there are folks here that know this stuff inside and out. So welcome to the forum, which is a great place to make friends and gain lots of knowledge about these landmark cars. I've been a long-time Buick owner ('64 Skylark and '60 Electra), and bought a '63 Riv late last year. The ROA and this forum is an invaluable source!
  24. I think I sourced one locally, but I will let you know for sure. Thanks!
  25. Hard to tell from just five pix, but one's personal tastes aside, I really respect the high level of craftsmanship and clean design that goes into many of these customizations. Regarding matte paint, I see more and more new BMWs and Porsches out here in San Diego with matte finishes in all colors. When I was with DaimlerChrysler in the 1990s-2000s, we fielded a concept car in matte silver, and it got a pretty poor public reception. But times change, and so do tastes.
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