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Everything posted by simplyconnected

  1. Why are the nylon washers upside down in the last picture? - Dave
  2. Melvin should be given an award for explaining, FOB. (I learned something new.) I always 'knew' what a key fob was, but didn't realize it should actually have buttons! I am not surprised by Padgett's post, he's a GM GURU with fabulous resources! - Dave
  3. Good comment, Charles. In all fairness, if we use these acrynoms there should be a glossary of meanings. (I think using acrynoms goes back to our military days.) For the longest time I didn't realize that a FSM was a factory service manual. Then, the Ozzy's have their own abbreviations, like dizzy (for a distributor), and jenny (for a generator, or dyno). TSB's are usually listed online, or in books at the dealerships.
  4. Peecher offers very good advice. I might add, that oil with 40 (weight) in the numbers (or more) will have the required zinc. Eg: Shell Rotella 15W-40 has at least 1,000 parts per million. Flat tappet engines need this extra protection that modern-engine oils don't offer. My engine rebuilder/machine shop offers some kind of 'classic engine' oil at sky-high prices, across his counter. When I saw the Duesenburg he just rebuilt, guess what he was feeding it... Rotella So, it's important you get a grade of oil that has 40-weight or greater. - Dave
  5. My parents' 1961 Pontiac Catalina Safari (9-passenger wagon 389/auto). They dumped the '54 Ford Country Sedan (6-cyl 3-speed on the column, no power anything) for that car. Mom took her test in the Ford during the Winter in Michigan when she was 48.
  6. No, they used 'break-in' oil. Didn't make sense to put anything but straight viscosity in during the break-in period. It was supposed to be changed soon after. Today's assembly plant oil has dye in it. We can tell if any leaks develop using a black light. We can also tell if the original oil is still present in a warranty engine. This stuff jumps right out at you and shines white, under any black light.
  7. Everyone is an authority on oil. It's just one of those subjects. What I didn't hear is, what about zinc??? Got solid lifters? I use Rotella. It's multi-viscosity, has 1,000ppm zinc, detergent (still a 'must have'), and it's made by Shell. Perfect for my newly overhauled Ford Y-block. I get 40-psi at idle and 60-psi at 2,500-rpm, hot or cold. Everything in this engine is new including Viton valve seals. Here's an example of non-detergent oil 'not at work'. <--CLICK HERE This is one of the filthiest engines I have EVER seen. Look in the valley and behind the timing chain. The guy I bought this from was cheap. He changed his oil at regular intervals but didn't believe in 'major brand' oil. Surprisingly, the crank & cam dimensions were really good (I used STD main, rod, & cam bearings); solid lifters looked like new. The oil pump was very sloppy and the top-end was horrible (rocker shaft assemblies were trashed). If you would like to see how this engine turned out, I will post more pictures. I thought you might like to see what straight viscosity non-detergent oil does. - Dave
  8. rm, can you get ahold of a service manual for this Chevy? You're certainly going to need one. Brake adjustment is covered in there.
  9. Bob, there seems to be something missing in this equation. If you use DOT-3 (per the manual), and you change it every few years, you will never find rust in your lines or cylinders. Mr.Pushbutton, who I highly regard, recomends a silicone-based fluid that offers different properties, some good and some bad. Chrysler still fills their brake systems with DOT-3, because it is the most appropriate. So does Ford and GM. I whole heartedly agree with Dave Moon; keep all petroleum and water-based products far away from your brake system. I have seen new brakes fail because the parts were washed in gasoline. As Dave said, they swell, and when you mash the pedal your car will stop, but the cylinders will NOT retract. Don't ever mix DOT-3 with DOT-5. The fluid will congeal and turn to mud inside the lines (it's a real mess). If your car came with DOT-3, all your seals are made for DOT-3. Continue using it. Stop Light pressure switches fail after two years from using DOT-5. DOT-3 is glycol based, and it sucks up water faster than Scotch. Any moisture disburses in the fluid until it reaches saturation. If you change your fluid before saturation (about once every few years), the fluid will inhibit rust. DOT-5 gives a spongy pedal feel and it makes water pool in the lowest areas; usually in your wheel cylinders, causing rust. All seals in your brake system must be compatable with DOT-5 on order to use it. You can sleeve your cylinders, and you may find aluminum pistons in standard rebuild packages. These are moves in the right direction. But, stay with DOT-3 and change it every few years. That will keep your pedal 'hard' and your bleeder valves moving freely. - Dave
  10. Always follow the markings on the battery REGARDLESS of how it is connected.
  11. Just a simple question: Can anyone forecast a stone rupturing a condensor coil? Even if you noticed freon is escaping (I don't care what kind), what could anyone do about it on a Sunday afternoon, in the middle of a show? Everything goes back to the earth at sometime. The only way to prevent refrigerant leak is to evacuate before it happens. That means window air conditioners and kitchen refrigerators will have an end date, and must be evacuated before they fail.
  12. I call it 'bantering' when someone expresses a different angle, but much has to do with attitude. This board is fabulous. It allows a question, then answers are 'put out there' for the world to see. That's the good part. Look, nobody is perfect. I have given advice that was superceded by a much better answer. But, everyone benefits from this kind of discussion. There have been times when I saw wrong answers given, as well. We do have a great bunch of very experienced restorers who freely share their talents and resources. I really enjoy hearing the 'real deal' from them, along with technical info extracted from the manuals and catalogs. With all due respect, I believe a wrong answer cannot just 'ride'; if someone has a more correct answer, it is their duty to post it (member or not). Let the posts be subject of debate, but let's keep an open mind and a kind attitude. - my two cents. - Dave
  13. Thanks for being a good sport, Rusty. Maybe next time it will be my turn. You're a good guy. Happy New Year.
  14. Hahahahahaa........ I can see a bunch of doctors, all huddled around a battery, collectively deciding the best way to connect it to a car.. "Hmmm.. Let's hook it up THIS way. Bed rest for today; call me in the moring if it has a reaction..." Forgive me, Rusty, I just had to say. (The Society of Automotive Engineers.) - Dave
  15. EBay told me, "We can't make sellers, sell, and we can't make buyers, buy." They truly DON'T care, and why should they? These people are in business to make money, by bringing buyers and sellers together. Period. It's easy to see why they own PayPal. They make big bucks, now, and couldn't be bothered by a few transactions or feedback complaints. Bottom line is, you're on your own, so don't look for help from eBay OR PayPal. I bought a nice ring for a decent price, and paid immediately with PayPal; a birthday present for my wife, and in plenty of time. The seller claimed she couldn't find the item, gave me a full refund, and later relisted it for more money. Another guy listed high-ratio rocker arms. I won, paid immediately, and he shipped. Opened the package, they were not high-ratio, and his listing was misrepresented. They were just like the thousands I already have. Wrote the seller showing him pictures of his part numbers, he claimed he didn't know part numbers but he went by what was written on the cardboard box 50 years ago. After teaching him how to read casting numbers, he wanted me to ship them back at my expense. From here it could have gone wrong. I explained, I already paid for shipping, and if he wants them back, he will pay for return-shipping. He refunded my money and told me to keep the item. Then, he said he has the real high-ratio arms. Ok, he feels he's done with our transaction, and wants to relist more arms because he thinks they're worth more than I paid. I offered to pay the same amount for the correct parts, but he claimed that would be illegal since the transaction is outside of eBay. A week of my time was wasted and I still needed high-ratio rockers. A few weeks later, I won a set from another seller for twenty bucks less. Point is, the best eBay can do (and the most you can hope for) is cancel the transaction and make everyone refund. It's always about money, and nothing more.
  16. Dick, my clock just struck "Christmas Day" and as I read your post I am humbled with a profound feeling of gratitude. Please post more often, as we have much to learn from your experiences. Bing Crosby and the Andrews Sisters ring that song in my ear; "Mele Kalikimaka is the thing to say on a bright Hawaiian Christmas Day..." It's freezing in Detroit and I wish I could see a few of those palm trees sway on this Christmas Day. - Dave
  17. Sure would help to see a picture, Ghostt. Does the car look like a Panterra? Ford had other ventures in Italy, too. Keiser31, I was going to run down to Publix to see if they had any more, but so much of downtown RO has changed from the days of Neisner's, MWard, Sander's, Wayne Oakland, Brown's Creamery, Ace Wilson's, Hilzinger's, Klebba's, Daily Trib., all gone. Dondero is now RO Jr High, and Kimball is now RO High (home of the Raven's). - Dave
  18. Yes! Merry Christmas! Let's not forget the men and women of our military, who willingly gave up their freedom so that we may enjoy ours. God Bless every one of them, especially our lonely snipers, and the poor GI who dreams of reuniting with his classic Chevy and his family. I hope the coming Happy New Year will bring all of us good health, peace and prosperity. - Dave
  19. If in doubt, ask yourself, 'What system did the OEM's use'? If your car was a Ford, up to and including 1955, your system was a six-volt. MILLIONS of Fords ran ok with that charging system. Ford NEVER sold an eight volt battery at a dealership. Ford never had their logo on an eight volt battery, either. So, what's the use for 8-volt batteries? They were used to start race cars, then they were disconnected. The next idea was, 'Hey! If racers use it, I must need one for my car.' Wrong. How much voltage do you need to CHARGE an eight volt battery??? (Hint... it's over eight volts, or the battery will be eternally UNDERcharged.) If your charging system was designed for six volts, either stick with it, or change it to a twelve-volt system. The operative word is SYSTEM, not component. If you want 8-volts, then change everything including generator, battery, regulator, relays, horns, light bulbs, motors and gauges to eight-volt. If you adjusted your six volt regulator to charge an eight volt battery, you better be doing a constant 50-mph +, because your generator needs very high RPM's to make power at that kind of voltage. - Dave
  20. "Honey, it's a good thing your arse is attached, or you'd... wait a dog-gone minute, I think I forgot something..."
  21. I bought a car on eBay... can't say I was 'taken' but damn near. Look, the buyer knows every inch of the car because he had it over ten years. It was running in the drive when I got there. No plates (of course), but the old man offered to drive it up on my trailer. I agreed. 500 miles later, when I got home, I drove it down the ramps and around my block. This '55 Ford was all over the road, and when I turned the wheel to go around the corner, the car kept going straight! This was the car from hell. Got it home and looked at the #1 crossmember (where the lower "A" arm suspension bolts into). The whole bottom was GONE, and the "A" arm bushings were rattling around. I made my own at home, and it's been real solid ever since: Rule #1: KNOW what you are buying. I soon found out, I didn't. The car looked clean, and evidently I didn't check the places that normally rot because I didn't know. Rule #2: TRY the car before you buy it. This car wouldn't start on its own, and it wouldn't steer correctly. The fuel tank was FULL of rust. Couldn't figure why it would stall for no reason, minutes later, it ran again. I did know the driver's door wouldn't stay shut, but, ok. Rule #3: If you don't know what you're doing, hire an impartial third party for an honest inspection.
  22. As a young'in I lived in Chicago. Both older brothers and an older sister delivered the morning paper REALLY EARLY in the morining. Dad bought a '54 Ford Country Sedan Wagon, his first car in 17 years of marriage. One zero-cold morning in '55, Dad set-out for work. He went to the garage, stuck his key in that straight-six Ford, and it started immediately. Hmmmmmmm..... He got out, opened the hood, stuck his finger in the radiator; it felt luke warm. Hmmmmmmmmmm........ My brothers fessed-up. They'd been delivering papers from the wagon for months! None of them had licenses, and this car was a stick. Dad was sore for a while, but he got over it. We just lost Dad last year, he was 98. All of us miss him REAL BAD.
  23. HEY! HEY!... This is MY thread, and I will tell him how... First, you follow Shop Rat's instructions... (Well? Do you want the 'man in charge' or the 'woman who knows what's going on'?) The little blue world with a chain is a LINK. You can link anything, by highlighting a word or phrase, and clicking on that blue link. Since we're doing COLD, <--I highlighted 'click on this' and another screen popped up. Then I copied a URL address in the box provided. Go ahead and watch the ice fishing movie.The yellow box is a POSTCARD. (I just found that out last week.) If you already have your picture in your photo album, you can use this postcard to point to it. OR, if your picture is on your personal web pages (from your internet provider), same thing, use the postcard to point to it, and it will appear right here: The important thing is to upload your picture somewhere first, then use the icons to point to it. (But if you move your picture, it won't show here any more because this program pointer won't know where it is.) My picture is part of my web space. Click HERE to see the site (and my wife, Robin's, '59 Galaxie). I hope this helps. If you want further instructions, go to the 'help' on this site. (Thank You, Susan) - Dave
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