simplyconnected

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About simplyconnected

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  • Birthday 12/12/1950

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    Just a home-grown boy who grew up loving cars.

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  1. Why are the nylon washers upside down in the last picture? - Dave
  2. Melvin should be given an award for explaining, FOB. (I learned something new.) I always 'knew' what a key fob was, but didn't realize it should actually have buttons! I am not surprised by Padgett's post, he's a GM GURU with fabulous resources! - Dave
  3. Good comment, Charles. In all fairness, if we use these acrynoms there should be a glossary of meanings. (I think using acrynoms goes back to our military days.) For the longest time I didn't realize that a FSM was a factory service manual. Then, the Ozzy's have their own abbreviations, like dizzy (for a distributor), and jenny (for a generator, or dyno). TSB's are usually listed online, or in books at the dealerships.
  4. Peecher offers very good advice. I might add, that oil with 40 (weight) in the numbers (or more) will have the required zinc. Eg: Shell Rotella 15W-40 has at least 1,000 parts per million. Flat tappet engines need this extra protection that modern-engine oils don't offer. My engine rebuilder/machine shop offers some kind of 'classic engine' oil at sky-high prices, across his counter. When I saw the Duesenburg he just rebuilt, guess what he was feeding it... Rotella So, it's important you get a grade of oil that has 40-weight or greater. - Dave
  5. My parents' 1961 Pontiac Catalina Safari (9-passenger wagon 389/auto). They dumped the '54 Ford Country Sedan (6-cyl 3-speed on the column, no power anything) for that car. Mom took her test in the Ford during the Winter in Michigan when she was 48.
  6. No, they used 'break-in' oil. Didn't make sense to put anything but straight viscosity in during the break-in period. It was supposed to be changed soon after. Today's assembly plant oil has dye in it. We can tell if any leaks develop using a black light. We can also tell if the original oil is still present in a warranty engine. This stuff jumps right out at you and shines white, under any black light.
  7. Everyone is an authority on oil. It's just one of those subjects. What I didn't hear is, what about zinc??? Got solid lifters? I use Rotella. It's multi-viscosity, has 1,000ppm zinc, detergent (still a 'must have'), and it's made by Shell. Perfect for my newly overhauled Ford Y-block. I get 40-psi at idle and 60-psi at 2,500-rpm, hot or cold. Everything in this engine is new including Viton valve seals. Here's an example of non-detergent oil 'not at work'. <--CLICK HERE This is one of the filthiest engines I have EVER seen. Look in the valley and behind the timing chain. The guy I bought this from was cheap. He changed his oil at regular intervals but didn't believe in 'major brand' oil. Surprisingly, the crank & cam dimensions were really good (I used STD main, rod, & cam bearings); solid lifters looked like new. The oil pump was very sloppy and the top-end was horrible (rocker shaft assemblies were trashed). If you would like to see how this engine turned out, I will post more pictures. I thought you might like to see what straight viscosity non-detergent oil does. - Dave
  8. rm, can you get ahold of a service manual for this Chevy? You're certainly going to need one. Brake adjustment is covered in there.
  9. Bob, there seems to be something missing in this equation. If you use DOT-3 (per the manual), and you change it every few years, you will never find rust in your lines or cylinders. Mr.Pushbutton, who I highly regard, recomends a silicone-based fluid that offers different properties, some good and some bad. Chrysler still fills their brake systems with DOT-3, because it is the most appropriate. So does Ford and GM. I whole heartedly agree with Dave Moon; keep all petroleum and water-based products far away from your brake system. I have seen new brakes fail because the parts were washed in gasoline. As Dave said, they swell, and when you mash the pedal your car will stop, but the cylinders will NOT retract. Don't ever mix DOT-3 with DOT-5. The fluid will congeal and turn to mud inside the lines (it's a real mess). If your car came with DOT-3, all your seals are made for DOT-3. Continue using it. Stop Light pressure switches fail after two years from using DOT-5. DOT-3 is glycol based, and it sucks up water faster than Scotch. Any moisture disburses in the fluid until it reaches saturation. If you change your fluid before saturation (about once every few years), the fluid will inhibit rust. DOT-5 gives a spongy pedal feel and it makes water pool in the lowest areas; usually in your wheel cylinders, causing rust. All seals in your brake system must be compatable with DOT-5 on order to use it. You can sleeve your cylinders, and you may find aluminum pistons in standard rebuild packages. These are moves in the right direction. But, stay with DOT-3 and change it every few years. That will keep your pedal 'hard' and your bleeder valves moving freely. - Dave
  10. Always follow the markings on the battery REGARDLESS of how it is connected.
  11. Just a simple question: Can anyone forecast a stone rupturing a condensor coil? Even if you noticed freon is escaping (I don't care what kind), what could anyone do about it on a Sunday afternoon, in the middle of a show? Everything goes back to the earth at sometime. The only way to prevent refrigerant leak is to evacuate before it happens. That means window air conditioners and kitchen refrigerators will have an end date, and must be evacuated before they fail.
  12. I call it 'bantering' when someone expresses a different angle, but much has to do with attitude. This board is fabulous. It allows a question, then answers are 'put out there' for the world to see. That's the good part. Look, nobody is perfect. I have given advice that was superceded by a much better answer. But, everyone benefits from this kind of discussion. There have been times when I saw wrong answers given, as well. We do have a great bunch of very experienced restorers who freely share their talents and resources. I really enjoy hearing the 'real deal' from them, along with technical info extracted from the manuals and catalogs. With all due respect, I believe a wrong answer cannot just 'ride'; if someone has a more correct answer, it is their duty to post it (member or not). Let the posts be subject of debate, but let's keep an open mind and a kind attitude. - my two cents. - Dave
  13. Thanks for being a good sport, Rusty. Maybe next time it will be my turn. You're a good guy. Happy New Year.
  14. Hahahahahaa........ I can see a bunch of doctors, all huddled around a battery, collectively deciding the best way to connect it to a car.. "Hmmm.. Let's hook it up THIS way. Bed rest for today; call me in the moring if it has a reaction..." Forgive me, Rusty, I just had to say. (The Society of Automotive Engineers.) - Dave