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Everything posted by dalestern

  1. Good evening Phil. I sent you a private message. Did you receive it?
  2. Hello Phil. I sent you a private message. I hope that you recieved it. It's been quite a journey but I've come a long long way with the '28FB. It was taken down to the frame. Every single part, big and small, has been touched and restored to original, but better than original. My hope is to have a perfect 2015 "1928 President. All exterior parts were rechromed, all interior parts were renickeled. I found an amazing woodgrainer, a fantastic upholstery man that has worked on cars at Pebble Beach. Final assembly should take place in August at the latest, but before that I'll have a list of 20 missing small parts that I'll be needing to finish her. I love her so much Phil. You definitely gave her to the right person. Thanks for the experience. "Yes, if you real do have a '28 President robe rail bracket that I can give to the foundry here to reproduce, it would be amazing. I'll send it right back to you. Let me know what I can do to help with that as I know how busy you are with things on your end. With gratitude and respect. Dale
  3. Hello RBK and all my fellow Studebake enthusiasts. Yes. To be clear, I need to 2 brackets that go on the back of the front seat. From what I understand, it was a design that only serviced the 1928 President. Can anyone verify and hopefully help me find them or a way to copy and make them as I have done on other parts of the car. Thank you for the help. DS
  4. OK now. Who has a '28 Robe Rail either for sale, or that I can pay handsomly to make a mold of and get right back to you. Don't make me beg too much (I will)
  5. Antony have a lead on an original type fuel sending unit to work with the king sealy gas gauge. Thanks
  6. Anyone have a lead on a fuel sending unit to work the king sealy gas gauge. Don't want to switch to electrical. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. DS
  7. You would think someone knows something. Maybe I'll try the Packard forum also. I spoke with a company up in MI that said to make from scratch is 1000's of $ if at all possible. Seems odd with all of the antique cars out there. I'm going to the Nerhercutt museum next week and will inquire there.
  8. Who has a lead on a sending unit for the king sealy gas gauge in the "28 FB President ?
  9. Alright Studebaker friends. My 1928 FB 5 Pass State Sedan President is now mechanically perfect! The body is back on the frame and has been temporarily shot with Red Oxide primer. Does anyone know a 1st rate, old school, classic car body/paint person in the Los Angeles area? If not, I can ship it to Baltimore where I'll be working for a few months and get it shot out there. Thank you very much. Dale
  10. Hi Carine! I've been thinking of you. I attacked the car hard this last year with a ground up restoration as new and it's going well. The body just went back on the frame. Next is the paint shop, then interior. Hopefully done by March. I hope you recover soon to drive your FB. Who are the billboard guys? I just need that dash plate and the whole robe rail. I think that I have everything else. Rick Peterson and Rex Miltenberger have been very helpful in my efforts of late. Good to have support along the way. I'll try to post some photos soon. Your FB buddy. Dale
  11. I'm looking for the "The President" badge that goes on the dash. Mine is long gone. Any idea where to find one? Thanks
  12. Studeq, you are my new hero! Thanks for preventing a mistake over here.
  13. Well if that's the case, i guess that I'll be doing some polishing over the years. Though I might have the plater flash chrome my parking brake handle.
  14. OK gents, it's time to send things out to the plater. Should the interior door handles, window cranks, brake lever, the little medalion on the window frame of the stagecoach being pulled by horses, and other things inside the car. Are they to be nickel plated or chrome plated, or both? The front windshield crank seems to be aluminum and polished up pretty well on a wheel. Thanks for everyone's help so far.
  15. Thank you guys for all of your responses. I've now been sent 7 photos from Stude owners around the globe from that period with original paint and all have black firewalls regardless of the color so I'm going with a black firewall. There are a tone of things that I need to finish my project that I'll be asking about such as the rear seat Robe Rail or interior door/window handles. I don't have them and if I can't find them I'll be asking to make a deal with anyone willing to make a cast of them. We love these old cars and are, here for a reason. To give or get some support. Thanks for being here. DS
  16. I'm a little confused. The researcher Andrew at the Studebaker Museum and another person told me that the firewall should be the same color as the body, however 4 people have now sent me photos of their '28, and '29 Studes with original paint and the firewalls on the engine side are black! What's a restorer to do???
  17. In restoring my 1928 FB President it's getting close to putting the body back on the frame so I have to paint the engine side firewall. Iv'e heard the the firewalls are supposed to be black regardless of body color. Is this true?
  18. Ha! Yeah, I know. But I figured someone would kick in some info regarding today's prices. I"ve actually had lousy luck getting info on most of my questions here, but Studerex has always been cool. I'm about to give my car to Bill Oliver's shop to work on. It's in Long Beach, Ca. not too far from me.
  19. How much did the president engine rebuild cost?
  20. I work too much to restore myself. I keep trying to tackle her, but I'm sent away for work each time. I need someone in Los Angeles/So.Ca area that really knows how to fix these cars up right. She runs but has been sitting for years. Does anyone now people well versed in pre-war Studes? Thanks for any help. DS
  21. My upholstery man is finally ready for my '28 President interior to be dropped off. Before I screw something up, how are the seats removed?
  22. Well my friends, it sounds like those splash guards are staying right where they are. She's straight as an arrow, but the right splash guard oddly has @ 10" missing from it. I'll just have a good body man fabricate a piece to patch it properly without removing it. The deck wood and wire mesh are intact, but the top material is all gone, and need someone to replace it. I need to replace the levers on the steering wheel, and the knobs on the dash. I'm pulling the dash out to restore the instrument cluster and gauges, and send it out for a fresh coat of wood grain. Interior is original but the moth eaten mohair should be restored (I have a good upholstery guy that does antique couches). The body is all various shades of primer, but she runs like a top. I'm going to go at her with a soda blaster, in and out. I'll put her on a lift to clean the entire drivetrain, then paint it. I'll basically blast every inch of this old girl. I've had great luck using a soda blaster to gently blast an engine and drivetrain clean, as well as wood without a lick of damage, and it washes right off. I have a lot to take apart and send off the the plater as well. I'll probably have to make casts of my interior handles, as well as the bars, and the "8" on the front of the radiator, as mine are all pretty rough. I've got all the service bulletins and the parts book, but they certainly don't tell the whole story, so I'll just have to figure it out. I'm jumping in with a bunch of tools, a lot of heart, and a little bit of common sense. Wish me luck. I'll ask an occasional question here every once in a while, unless there's a better way to get answers to questions. Feel free to email me if you can think of any minefields that I'll step into. Thanks a bunch. Dale Stern Los Angeles CA
  23. Dear Lord!!! I can't believe that I have to lift the entire body to remove those two flimsy aprons. Jeez. Ok then, now how does one lift the body to get at those bolts? Much appreciated BTW. DS
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