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simonmeridew

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Everything posted by simonmeridew

  1. try Kantor's. they're catalog is online. Call them and they ship quick simonmeridew
  2. Hi GW There is also a small business in So. Burlington, Vermont called THE TEMPERATURE GUAGE GUY, Roy Martin, (802)862-6374, who repairs guages for those of us who are unable to get the sensor out of the block in one piece. I saw him at his booth at the Stowe Vermont Antique Car Show last weekend. His card says, "Antique Auto Temperature Guages Repaired" and used gauges for sale. simonmeridew
  3. what do I undo to take the tranny out: right off the torque tube or further up front. I'm trying to get the rebuilt engine back in and the tranny shaft is pushing the clutch driven plate up or down so it won't engage with the pilot bearing. so frustratin!!! The other day I would've sold the whole thing for $50.advise anyone???? simonmerndew
  4. the fluid is ether, ( diethyl ether, the same stuff in starting fluid) highly flammable. 1933 Plymouth Temperature Gauge Repair in this example of how to repair the capillary tubing, in preparation to tin the tubing, in step 6 you need to use an "anti-flux" to keep the solder from running into the tube. A good anti-flux is ordinary lead pencil graphite; just take the pencil and rub graphite on the part of the tubing you don't want solder to stick and put flux one the part you want solder to stick. simonmeridew
  5. if you have spark and fuel it will run. It sounds to me like fuel problem. Have a wrench or pliers with you and when it stalls next time With your electric fuel pump you should see a good solid spurt of gas coming out of the fuel line when the ignition is on--use two people so you don't spill a lot of fuel. If no spurt, there's a clog somewhere, probably where the gas line exits the gas tank. If there's plenty of gas coming out, it's an ignition problem. Take the distributor cap off and see if you get a little spark when you open and close the points--easier to see and hear when the points are inbetween lobes on the shaft. Just take a screwdriver and pry the arm of the points apart. You will see and hear a spark. Low voltage it won't hurt you. Any part can be bad like the condenser--unlikely, but what they did for you didn't fix the problem, so you need to try something else. It could be even a bad spark coil. Sometimes they fail intermittantly when they get hot. Just a few things to try. PM
  6. follow up to washer problem. I had 2 "washers" made at a local machine shop---actually 3 after the one I gave him as a template came up missing--fell behind?? The tool that everyone ended up lending me worked great, including the $7 NAPA adapter to my air hose to keep the valves up. The lower jaws of the tool fit hard in the lower part of each spring coil, because they're(the coils) are so close together; I had to squeeze each jaw with a large pliers till they engaged. Once engaged they stayed put each time. Otherwise flawless operation. The "washers" rest on top of the machined part of the block, over the valve; the smaller inner valve spring rests on top of this washer, the larger outer spring fits around the outside of the washer, so once it's in place, you really can't see the washer because it's totally surrounded by the lower coils of the outer spring which are close together. Thanks to all who helped me with this mystery. simonmeridew
  7. I'm pretty sure I saw one on ebay maybe 6-8 weeks ago. Not even positive it ever sold. An listing may not show up in a completed item search on ebay if no activity. Keep an eye on ebay "1934 buick" search; there's a guy parting out a 233 recently. Sometimes people pull the engine/drivetrain and slip a small V8 in. Not my cup of tea, but a part is a part. simonmeridew
  8. I'd be interested in seeing a pic of how they go on the ends. I think I have the clips but not sure enough to post a pic. Anyway, I can't figure out how to get them on. simonmeridew
  9. Hi Mike is this the type of valve spring compressor that would work? New Universal Overhead Valve Spring Compressor Kit: eBay Motors (item 280522183315 end time Jun-23-10 10:24:23 PDT) simonmeridew
  10. Hi Mike Thanks for your reply. Yes, I'm interested in the procedure to take the springs off to get the washers in. Since I sent the engine out to have various procedures done--babbiting and boring out the cylinders being the most important--there are no washers in place. My bad. If necessary I'll take the head off, but interested in your procedure. Thanks again simonmeridew
  11. That's what I was afraid of. The head's back on the engine, and since school's out I don't have access to a valve spring compressor to put them in. Do the valve springs gain a bit of preload with the thickness of these washers? How essential are they? simonmeridew
  12. any comments on using an impact wrench on a bolt screwed into the crankshaft ?? kind of a gentle back and forth?? simonmeridew
  13. Hi Bob the washers(or spacers) are 5/8" nominal (.630) internal diameter and 1"nominal(.982) external diameter. The cylinder head is cast iron. It's a mystery to me why there are 14 units only. I'm not even sure they go with my engine; the parts were laying around on the bench for over a year while I was having the rods rebabbitted, and it being a school auto shop, who knows what the kids were messing with. I'm mostly concerned that I'm not leaving essential internal engine parts out in the rebuild. simonmeridew
  14. Hi Thanks for replying. They're steel, quite thick and rugged. I'll check and see if they look like they would fit on top of the valve springs but as I recall, the valve springs felt strong--the 233 has double springs anyway. Any other ideas?? simonmeridew
  15. I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild of my 233 '34 engine. I started the rebuild at the local high school auto shop a year ago as an adult school course. The engine is almost back together, but I found these washers on the bench under some parts and I think they may go to my engine. Trouble is, there is only 14 of them...an odd number for a straight 8. I put a spark plug in the pic for size reference. It's like they're a spacer or bushing or something like that. Does anyone recognise them?, I looked and looked and only found 14. Not sure if one of the kids left them from another project. Hope the pic happened simonmeridew
  16. Joe: This would be a question to ask your locksmith, usually it's a matter of inserting the key, and pressing a thin wire into the little hole next to the key, removing the whole cylinder, and doing the same in reverse with the new one. He can pick the lock if you don't have the key for the old cylinder. Not sure if this answers your question, but still would give a locksmith a call. simonmeridew
  17. As an aside, can someone give a longer explanation to the process of: "GI"ing a piston? simonmeridew
  18. Mark here's a cover, not the one you may want, but coming up soon. Still looking for the water jacket cover?? 1934-1935 BUICK 40 SERIES ENGINE SIDE COVER w/oil fille : eBay Motors (item 260590776772 end time Apr-29-10 15:08:58 PDT) simonmeridew
  19. Hi Mark I'm simonmeridew; email is springpromisefarm@yahoo.com
  20. Mark I just am in the midst of a complete motor job on my '34 model 47 including new babbit. We may be able to give each other advice/encouragement along the way. simonmeridew
  21. Hi Mark I think I saw a water jacket cover on eBay last week; I don't think it sold, but not sure. I can't find it now but if you do a search for it on ebay, be patient and one will show up. simonmeridew
  22. this particular ring gear is worn evenly all the way around. With at least half an inch of tooth on the gear and only 3/16 inch worn on one side and 5/16 inch untouched, it's tempting. I did see the gear on ebay but I figured I'd see what others thought about my idea before I jumped overboard. When you bid on something on ebay you never know is it the right part, where did he measure the diameter, is it slightly oval leading to sloppy measuring, how fussey is the seller, etc. Thanks for any and all help. simonmeridew
  23. Still in the midst of a total rebuild on my 34 buick 47 The ring gear shows the usual wear in the teeth. Right now, it looks like it was welded(tacked) in place as a shadetree repair, maybe through an inspection hole sometime in the past, maybe because the ring gear became loose on the flywheel and it turned instead of the flywheel. My question is, can I grind off the little tack weld spots, drive the ring gear off the flywheel, flip it around to get the good teeth on the other side, and reattach the ring gear to the flywheel the other way? The shop manual talks about grinding the ring gear off then putting a new one on etc, but the good part of the teeth look so tempting. simonmeridew
  24. I need some help getting started with the valve timing set up in my buick engine. :confused: This is a total rebuild job, crank, cam, valve train including lifters rocker arms and pushrods installed, head torqued down, timing gears and chain installed 11 teeth apart as the shop manual says. None of the other components are installed yet, like oil pump, distributor, fuel pump etc. Nothing with gaskets yet except the head. I was hoping to get valves set up next. I need to know what the next step is. The shop manual talks about looking at the clutch and turning the crank a certain no. of degrees and look at the intake valve when it first opens. Can I set up the valve timing while its on the engine stand, or do I need to wait until its in the car? I'm at sea simonmeridew
  25. Brian Approx. what did it cost to rebuild the guage assembly? I also remember someone in Essex Junction, Vermont who rebuilds them also, I've looked in the search in this forum and can't locate the posting where I read about it. Maybe someone can help me???? simonmeridew
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