Caballero2

Is that a model 68?

I can now buy at a reasonable price 87 Octane, ethanol free gasoline and mine runs well even in 95 degree days. Ask your legislators to get the ethanol out of our gasoline. Honest testing shows that emissions in total do not reduce emissions and may even increase overall auto emissions.

It seems that the contributors to this thread might appreciate this one.

2018 Denver National

My short term memory may fading some, long term is somewhat better, but I seem to remember a turntable very similar as an item in the only 1953 Buick Skylark Riviera. I saw this at the 1991 National in Sacramento.

1957 Buick Roadmaster Model 76C, Convertible Coupe

My addition:

For you '57 & '58 owners, there are a couple of no/nos. The original KH wheels will interfere with the aluminum finned front drums by approximately .030" in the hub area and have been known to cause problems. I avoided this by use of .060 spacers that relieve the interference. Second, shown in the photo are radial tires which track very well and balance well. These are restored wheels by Dayton Wheel. I have experienced no problems at this time. However, the car has only been driven only 2000+ miles since restoration. These wheels, however have seen 65 MPH.

I believe I got my material from Restoration Supply way back when I did the Caballero. I did ground the fuel tanks on both restorations.

A poorly grounded circuit would explain this. Run a jumper wire from the frame of the compressor to the negative terminal of the battery. Then try. Then, if the problem persists, the problem could be the switch, or the connection to that switch, or the fuse block connection, or maybe the chassis ground wire is missing between the engine and the firewall.

That is common to all '57 and I think '58 Buicks.

This photo might give some little insight. In the the service manual, it shows the two loose ends connecting to the primary brake shoe.

Battle scars cannot blemish its beauty. DAN

I became aware of the temperature sensing capability of this design while towing a trailer with a car enclosed through Idaho on a day of 100 plus degrees. With the A/C going full blast in my '82 Chevrolet Silverado, one could hear and feel the fan clutch engage then drop out when the temp gauge dropped into the save zone. I believe that the design allows the clutch to actually lock up when the high temp is reached. Others may chime in if that is not correct.

If I remember it correctly, I sized it for a '63 LeSabre 401ci. I suggest taking yours with you to the store.

Just a suggestion, in light of your area, I bought this at Napa, bolts right up, works very well. It is thermally activated.

Next stop, the auction barn.

OK, First got to ebay or Amazon and acquire 1/4 dia bearing balls https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-4-inch-Making-Plastic-Bearing/dp/B07TMKD8N3/ref=sr_1_41?dchild=1&keywords=delrin+bearing+balls+1%2F4"&qid=1591793814&sr=8-41 On center, drill a hole through the bearing ball with a #43 Drill, then tap the hole with a #4-40UNC tap. Also on Ebay or Amazon acquire the Bondic UV curing structural quality adhesive. https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Activated-Waterproof-Resistant-Adhesive/dp/B018IBEHQU/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1TDBCPVHBVXT0&dchild=1&keywords=bondic+liquid+plastic+welder&qid=1591795093&sprefix=Bondic%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRUtTQ1cyVDg0WVBLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMwNDA1MVlMTEdESEo2NUFMOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTUwMTk2MjJKS1JVNU9SNkU4NCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= After removing the yoke from the steering column, using the #43 Drill, drill through the body of the mating part and tap. Fill the holes of both parts with the Bondic and thread them together. leave approximately 1/16 between the two parts. Green thread locker (Locktite) may substitute for Bondic. Cure the Bondic using the provided UV light source. For more curing, leave in the bright sunlight for a couple of hours. Note: I actually removed the part from the yoke, making it necessary to remount the part using small flat head machine screws. If the work is done with the broken part remaining in the yoke, the remount would be avoided. One with a steady hand might be able to pull this off with the base part still in the car.😨

I hope this helps.

Oh, what fun!

If I sneeze today, someone will shun me.

Yours truly, homeward bound from Sacramento 1991. Photo taken near Park City, Ut. 500 miles to go.

One more detail for the optional fuel filter...

Here is an often overlooked detail. That is, the throttle return spring as original.

I tied the tail shaft with a small tie-down strap to the frame at the time of I installed the transmission. (Also can be done at the time of engine removal) Then at the time of attachment to the engine I placed a jack under the bell housing to assist alignment to the engine when the engine was installed.