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  1. Tom... What ball-bearing sizes are you using on the wheels? Use soap (or tire lubricant) on your tires to help them slip over the rims. The trash bag method works nicely, except when it doesn't! Phil
  2. Thanks. I've also heard Champion W89D, PJ85, and 3COM. What was the original plug used? Phil
  3. What spark plug is used in the Model 20 Hupmobile? Phil
  4. I have a Kastar thread restorer kit and use it often. It has metric and SAE sizes. The advantage is that it cuts off less metal than a tap and die. I know many use a regular tap/die set for restoration, but a thread restorer seems a better idea to me. Phil
  5. "Dragone" (don't forget the "e") doesn't seem to have full results posted on their web site from the 2012 or 2013 sales. I'd be interested to see what sold. Very nice cars. Phil
  6. Thought I'd post this here in case anyone has a 1921-1926 Peugeot Quadrilette 161, 172, 190, etc. There are not many in the USA, but I have a load of extra mechanical parts in case anyone is interested: http://forums.aaca.org/f119/1921-1926-peugeot-quadrilette-parts-353108.html Phil
  7. I first joined the AACA when I was about 19. I think Nixon was president then, to give you an idea of the time frame. Anyway, I was definitely the "kid" in most settings, but I found helpful, friendly people when I got the nerve to approach them. Today, I am impressed by the interesting, helpful car people I meet, especially now that my social skills have improved! Pass by the snobs, and you'll find the great people that share your interests. You'll be glad you did. Phil
  8. I concur with Evapo-Rust. You can get it at Harbor Freight or by mail. Also, you can try Quick-Glo. Here's the Leno video on the latter product. Phil
  9. Lot of Peugeot Quadrilette mechanical parts including transaxles, connecting rods, pistons, misc gears, 2 engine blocks, flywheel, drive shaft, etc. These are mostly from models 172 and 190, I believe. Everything is as-is, but should be some usable parts in this lot. I got them from France with my 1921 Quadrilette. The wire wheels you see are also included. A great assortment for Hershey. First $500 takes the load. Phil Jamison West Chester, PA
  10. Seeking Breeze carburetor for 1911 Maxwell "20". I think this is the "H3". Any leads appreciated! Phil
  11. Continuing work on the Metz windscreen... The Metz windshield seems unique in that it curves away from the driver, a feature that has confused me in assembly a couple times. Also, how they sewed the cloth over the steel framework for the windshield had me thinking. I decided to sew the fabric and then slip the metal bars into the assembly and bolt them together. I assume that's what Metz did as well. To refresh the reader's memory, I got the framework made by a fabricator in California who had an original to copy. I based the cloth assembly on an original car like mine. I then assembled the windshield frame on my car and traced it on some cardboard, using this pattern to cut the cloth. The front is Haartz top cloth, and the backing is the matching drill cloth; the same fabrics I used on the top. I used 30-gauge (.030") clear vinyl for the clear "glass" part. Originally, a much thinner celluloid was used, but I couldn't find that. It's almost complete, and I think it will look pretty good for our first attempt. Here are some recent photos of Lucille on the job. We see the clear vinyl has been sewn in place, and we're fitting the pockets for the metal frame. The white roll of tape on top is "bias tape", a double-sided tape available in different widths. It's useful for holding down edges to be sewed. We use a white chalk-type pencil to mark the drill cloth where we wish to sew the seam. Black polyester thread was used with a tan color on the bobbin so it blends in with the black front and tan backing. Next, we'll see if it fits on the car! Phil
  12. Here's one to try: For low-cost dent repair to your car, try dry ice. Park your car with the dent in the sun and let the dent and surrounding sheet metal warm up. Then, wearing protective gloves, put a small block of dry ice over the dent. The rapid chilling of the metal will "pop" the dent without scratching the paint. Do not touch either the dry ice or the extremely cold body of the car with bare skin. If there is a crease in the bottom of the dent, or a body support member under it, complete dent repair with dry ice may not be possible. Make sure to follow all dry ice safe handling precautions. You can also kill moths with dry ice, as described on their site. It doesn't freeze them, but deprives them of oxygen. Might work for carpets and upholstery you can fit into plastic bag or box. (From Continental Carbonic web page) Phil
  13. I know they're out there, particularly in the collections of Model T owners. Contact the AACA Library if you'd like to share! Phil
  14. I wouldn't panic. How many people were attacked using Craigslist or Kijiji last year? I'd say it's still a pretty safe way to buy and sell things despite the scary stories. Phil
  15. Thanks. I'm looking at a 1911 Model 20 next week. It doesn't run, but have you any suggestions for checking the drive train, etc.? I know transmission and differential gears are sometimes chewed up. Was there originally a cover under the engine? Phil
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