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FJD

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Posts posted by FJD

  1. One item overlooked is that when the drums are minus the powder coating, and turned down, all of the drums can be turned to the same safe diameter. which in reality they should be any way.

     

    Some powder coating also provides a great primer coat for painting, which can be touched up which difficult to touch up powder coating.

     

    good luck

  2. Hello cutlasguy

     

    Keep up the great job of taking pictures at local car shows.

     

    I know many of the hard working folks in the Scranton Region AACA.  They do a great job on the show as they have for many many years.  Although I haven't been able to attend the show lately they have put together a show where all vehicles are welcome and so are the folks who show them and also to those in attendance.

     

    Keep up the good work Scranton Region AACA

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  3. Many years ago I took some parts to be painted in to a shop in SE. PA.   I got charged for 8 hours work and he did nothing.  Satisfaction Guaranteed.  He told me he used the time to "chase the paint".  He didn't even get me a paint code, but I did have to pay to get my parts back.   I probably should have gone to a more reliable professional.   LOL  I must  add that it wasn't any of the reputable restorers on this site or even a member of the organization.

  4. I have also tried different finishes.  The John Deere paint so far is excellent.  Using the rattle cans didn't quite give the results I was looking for, but when thinned and sprayed the product looks great.  I also had the parts blasted then powdercoated, then painted.  Powder coating is difficult to touch up.  PM me if you would like to discuss my reasons for my particular procedure.

     

    Fred D

  5. Howdy all.  

     

    I have no experience with the original topic.  But have read it with great interest.

     

    If I may offer my experience.  There is a product called Hi Temp lab metal.  It needs to be cured prior to applying the powder coat, and if I may add it works quite well. Especially if the metal is clean and ready to go. 

     

    As to paint over powder coating yes it can be done.  I will not go into detail as to the pros & cons.  I did that once, and some of the replies, cause me not to bring it up publicly again.   however if anybody would like to PM me I will gladly relate my experiences with the requester.

     

    Fred D

  6. Fantastic job.  I have a 40-120 4 door and have been reading this topic with interest.  I have a few questions if you would be so kind as to address them.  Would you be so kind as to post pictures of the clutch - brake assembly attached to the frame and transmission.   Did you have to replace the shaft that the clutch and brake pedal rotate on?  If you did may I ask where you got it.

     

    Keep up the great job.

     

    Thanks  Fred D.

  7. Matt

    I do not want to steal or hijack this thread. I personally called you a long time ago and we discussed your project. As for my own experience the fellow that did my powder coating however has had produced different results while doing different materials at the same time. I agree different batches will produce different results. And yes surface prep is also critical. I just offered Tom my experience on my project. Hopefully Tom receives the information he is inquiring about. Thank you for your reply. I will not offer any more on this particular thread.

  8. Tom

    I am also considering the same procedure and hope you get an accurate answer. In addition to powder coating I am getting prepared to apply a wet overcoat to my powder coated surfaces.

    I am overcoating the pieces because the powdercoat turns out with different finishes/gloss when applied to different metal composition. For example heavy/thick formed pieces, sheet metal panels, and cast parts.

    Soon I hope to start coating some powder coated pieces with the John Deere Semi Gloss. It has been recommended as being durable, strong, and easy to work with. I will see, I hope soon. I was going to try another brand that needed to have a gloss reducer mixed, but I got inconsistant finishes.

    Good Luck

    Fred D

  9. Hello Bob

    If I may comment here I to asked this question of many people. My 1940 chassis was painted using Sherwin Williams ALKYLYD Black my satisfaction was less than I expected and stalled the project for a long time. Too glossy and poor preparation of the rusted areas..

    I have tried ALK 200 with flattening powder I haven't quite got formula/gloss I was looking for. I have received several replies to use John Deere semi black. I have used this on several misc. parts I used the rattle can method and found the gloss level to be somewhat close to what I had hoped for. However it seems as if the rattle can method was a thinner coat than hoped for and produced many runs and sometimes not a uniform finish.

    My next venture is to use the John Deere brank using the compressor/spray gun effort.

    I also have had all of the dismantled parts blasted, and powder coated a commercial black finish however: The same powder coat had different gloss appearance on different metals. EG. Cast Iron, formed heavy steel and formed thin gage metal. Also if the powder coating chips it is difficult to fix, that is when I decided to apply a wet coat for uniformity.

    Hopefully this time I will have the success I am looking for.

    On a side note it was quite a project getting my running board blasted, repaired and powder coated. That is a story for another time. They need to be prepped to send to Hunley Acuff.

    Hope my experience has helped you out.

    Fred D

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