Paul Falabella

My 55 Roadmaster used track straight as an arrow, hands on or off the wheel. Last winter I dropped the oil pan which requires undoing the Idler Arm. After reassembly,the car now pulls slightly to the left requiring a slight right wheel movement to track straight. The idler arm is attached to the firewall with two bolts and no adjustment I can see. Just a minor but annoying problem. So what did I mess with to cause this? Thanks

The car came from Alabama. That's why the first one was toast!!

Thanks, After looking at the job they did in the Lincoln factory, I don't feel so bad!

The carb switch was R&R'd and cleaned as per the book. The push button is mummy wrapped in electrical tape and I don't really want to mess with it. So far as I can see,the way it was done, if something goes wrong, I can remove the pink switch/relay wire and I'm back to push button. Sounds weird huh?

This past winter I replaced the torn and ratty headliner in my 55 Roadmaster, with a new one from SMS. Color matched perfect but I was a little PO'ed that I couldn't get it drum tight despite many hours trying. I finally gave up,conceding it looks better than before. Recently I purchased on eBay full years 1955,56,57 Motor Trend magazine. I was surprised to find a road test on a brand new 55 Lincoln with a headliner that looks like I installed it! Also, frequently mentioned in road tests are how badly the car rattles and whether it had good or bad build quality. You can take "they don't make em' like they used to" different ways, but if it's good enough for Motor Trend, It's good enough for me!

Yes meant relay, will correct.

OK, after installing 25a fuse and carefully tracing every wire in the starting circuit, found the difference from factory was the pink wire from the starter switch to the starter solenoid(just covered with electrical tape), #4 terminal. Car started with the accelerator. The push button is apparently sliced in between the voltage regulator and the starter relay. I will leave it alone for a while. I still need to see if there was an operational problem that may again pop up. Keeping my fingers crossed! Meant relay, thanks, Willy.

My two cents, as stated before. I put a bottle of lead substitute in every tank. Does it make the engine feel any better? Not sure. Does it make me feel better? Yea.

CARS shows a bunch of bumpers for many years. If you need the round with the conical press in kind they have that.

Check your local Craig's list from time to time. Especially if you are going to keep it R12. I have had some good luck with R12 on Craigs List.

Test light lit when throttle rod was pulled forward, indicating switch is good. Will splice in fuse and get to rewiring. Has gotten me thinking now, if switch is good, why was it converted to push button?

If I recall the lockout device is a vacuum actuated ball bearing in the carb switch correct? A few years back, when I had the carb rebuilt, I took the switch apart and cleaned it, and it appeared to be free. I just never got into rewiring it.

That is interesting. I thought this would entail more than just reattaching some wires. Let me get this straight. Test the carb switch, if it works, Splice a 25A fuse between the yellow wire and the neutral safety switch If the push button is a two wire device, Rout wires back onto the carb switch and I'm back in business? Am I missing anything? Thanks

OK, In the yellow wire from the neutral safety switch to the accelerator switch. What size fuse would work?

I am thinking of returning my 55 Roadmaster back to the accelerator starter from the previous owners push button start. I remember reading somewhere,a problem from accidental shorting would fry the whole front harness and could be avoided by placing a fuse at the neutral safety switch. Which terminal and what size fuse?What else do I need?The carb switch seems to be OK. The push button works fine, I'd just like the authenticity or is this a project best not to get involved with? Anyone else do this? Thanks, Paul

That's what's visible under the hood. There is another universe of copper tubing,soldered and coupled under the vehicle and back to the evaporator.What parts do you have on hand? Read Old-Tanks comments,pretty much everything I know he told me. If anybody knows the ins and outs and doability of mid 50's A/C projects, it's him.

Braided line is supported under chassis and at compressor. Noticed my sight glass line is missing grommet.

I would contact Classic Auto Air regarding 134 conversion. I have dealt with them(R12 stuff) and they are great to deal with.

Re the resistor:I think the position of the wires would affect the fan speed control. Wire as per picture. Re A/C lines: The lower braided hose goes aft to the hot gas bypass and evaporator. Can't get a pic unless I jack the car up but you should have a routing diagram in the shop manual. Other pics are inside evaporator and close up of expansion valve.

Re: The resistor. There are 3 wires, Orange, Yellow, Black on mine. Either it is an error on the schematic or the fan was two speed in some applications,mine is 3 speed(maybe 54 was 2?)but there is black and two taps. What brackets do you mean? There are quite a few A/C lines, some through grommets,some tied, probably 25 feet or more of lines.

Resister is black due to overspray(not me!) Hope these help.

Fan is 5 blade. Posting here in case anyone else needs to see.

I'll get those other shots for you. In the mean time this may come in handy. A/C wiring diagram in living color!

If you have the body and chassis parts books, there are some good views of the complete system. If I'm not mistaken the 54 set up is only different in the reciever location and the side ceiling vents. The receiver is under the front bumper on 55's. see pic, mine has been cut and the desiccant replaced, rewelded and painted.

56 A/C used the more modern, cowl mounted evaporator. Adding factory A/C to a 55 would, in my opinion, be a much more ambitious project. Between accurately mounting components, long lengths of plumbing,numerous gas tight unions,not a project to be taken lightly. That said, good luck, keep us posted.