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29 roosevelt

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About 29 roosevelt

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  1. Thanks, this is very helpful. There is a title. I will try to get some pictures this weekend.
  2. Opps, slip of the finger. It is a 1927.
  3. I have an opportunity to get my hands on a 1927 Chevrolet Roadster. It is in a good #5 condition, (All parts there, little rust, most wood needs reworking, not running). How collectible are these and are the two wheel brakes enough for modern traffic conditions? Any other issues, mechanical or otherwise, to consider? Thanks, Mark
  4. I have pictures of my compressor line setup under Our Cars and Restoration projects forum, 1929 Roosevelt Restoration. No leaks, simple, cost effective. I heard that if PVC fails it can send shards flying.
  5. Hello, I see from pictures on the web that the Roosevelt had a small cover plate to cover the engine crank hole on the radiator shell. It has a big "R" on it. Does anyone have a source for one of these? Thank you, Mark
  6. Willys77, See the photo of the bag in one of my earlier posts. It shows the item number of what I used. Bought from a brick and morter locksmith. $8.61. Note that I may some day get a Briggs and Stratton key clyinder off Ebay and try to modifly that so that I can use my ignition key or similar key but for now I figured removing material rather than adding was my best bet. It might be that you have a shorter clyinder, (and a different retaining method other than the spring clip that fits the Roosevelt). Good luck.
  7. Well here is the finished key cylinder and exploded view of the locking handle.
  8. I will try to get a better picture and post later. I went out and bought the cylinder today and using my fancy milling machine, shown, here is what I have so far.
  9. Actually here is the locking handle disassembly picture.
  10. Thanks for the pictures of the oil filter modification. And I will register with the Marmon club when I find the chassis id. On another note... I have sent in my door handles for chroming but held on to the lockable one. The plater said they just copper coat those and make them non-operational. I didn't want to do that so I was considering sending it off to a more expensive place that would remove the lock and chrome properly. But they said the lock had to be operational. Mine wasn't. It wanted to bend the key at the end. I looked it over for a while and finally decided to punch out the small
  11. I have been busy but was able to remove the remining chrome from the car and bring it into Quality Plating in Yuma, CO. I had Denver Bumper do the bumpers and the tail light bezel. They did a good job on the bumpers but I had to reject the bezel and have them redo it. Just got that part back this week, it looks fine now. One item I did not send in for chrome yet is the locking door handle. It is not completely operational but the key does turn most of the way. I would like to save the locking ability. Is there a way to remove the lock cylinder / tumbler from this handle so I can have in re-ch
  12. Thanks, I will definitely consider the cut off switch. Also note that I used the term regulator when I meant the pressure switch. (I know you know this but some may not, the regulator is how one can adjust the pressure down to 2 PSI or so). And the filter idea is a great one. Can you explain how you did that in greater detal or show pictures?
  13. Well I am a stickler about appearances being period correct. But Mechanicals I am more apt to upgrade. I have read enough posts about the vacuum tanks and heard enough personal commentary for me to consider the fuel pump approach. I then just tried to improve upon that so I wouldn’t hear or see the pump working. Other things I will consider are using single stage urethane paint, but I will take down the glossiness with matt additive. I will likely use an electronic voltage regulator but it will not be visible. I will likely use detergent oil. Led Tail lights, etc What I personally am not into
  14. Here is the fuel pump I have added. It is a carter 6v rotary vane from Napa, (quieter than a solenoid type). A holly fuel pressure regulator. Next to the gas tank. And a pressure switch for a 1976 or so Vega, (on the engine). This pressure regulator has three posts which will shut down the fuel pump in case the oil presure is lost. I have not removed anything original to the car. I just bypassed the vacuum fuel pump. I will provide the part numbers in a future post. Today I drilled out some rivets holding on the headlamp bezels. Getting ready for the parts to be chromed.
  15. Here i just received belting from hitnmiss.com for my Delco-Lovejoy shocks. I will use this for the strapping. It is a 3 ply Belting, 1-1/4" which is the same dimensions as the original shown in the attached pictures. I just finished dying it black. Also today I was removing chrome and nickel hardware. one of my back seat hand rail pot metal arms broke. Going to see if I can get them done in stainless. I am curious if all rivets have to be removed from any pieces to be chromed? Also shown is a tail light lens I am looking for. It is about 4" in diameter.
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