CT Car Guy

Looking for a working speedometer for my '65. I don't need the gauge pods just the speedometer. Mine is stuck at 140 since I got the car. The odometer was working until the cable from the cruise control vacuum generator broke. The generator was running a bit stiff so I rebuilt it just in case that was the cause. I don't want to disassemble the dash until I have a working speedometer. Is it common for it to fail this way? Did not work when I bought the car. THX

Watch out for a George Potter from CA. Claims to have a '72 to sell for $6800. Researched the photo he sent me and found it was a picture taken from a UK site. Lots of excuses when asked for phone number, more pictures or inspection. BIG RED FLAG.

Hi All: I am looking to buy a Buick Rivera (1971 or 72 preferred but open to other years) . Style: 2 door hardtop, body and paint must be very good. I am NOT looking for a project. I have limited abilities due to health issues. I can do some electrical and brakes.No body work or paint I am not looking (or can afford) a show car but I want a nice driver to take to shows. I am located in Connecticut. Budget, due to medical bills, is about $13,000.

Hi All: I am looking to buy a 1959-1972 either Buick Rivera (1971 or 72) or Oldsmobile Starfire. Style: 2 door hardtop, body and paint must be very good. I am NOT looking for a project. I have limited abilities due to health issues. I can do electrical and brakes. I am not looking (or can afford) a show car but I want a nice driver to take to shows. I am located in Connecticut. Budget, due to medical bills, is about $13,000. email ctcarguy@gmail.com

Thanks all. I think I will look at the 38 closer. I just love the lines on cars of this era.

Thanks Joel. I've collecting cars for year and had as many as six. I sold all but one modern sports car when I became ill.I'm looking for something to tinker with and drive, not really show. I will have to take a good look at it. There is a '38 (unfortunately) has modern engine and trans but may be the low maintenance I need since I am limited physically. Always loved the cars of the 30's to 40's, plus late 50's (love fins) and some 60'\s. My last car was '56 Thunderbird. Thanks.

I am looking at an unrestored 1936 Buick sedan, It seems to be in good condition. My plan is to drive and enjoy it. I think it would be HPOF compliant. I have 2 questions: The car has a 4.44 rear end gear ration. Would I be able to cruise at 55 ore 60 without over straining the motor? 2. What are parts availability? Than you in advance for your time in helping me make my decision. Larry in CT

I found a rebuilder but he will only do AC pumps. By asking around my club, I was able to find 2. The company is Arthur Gould Rebuilders in Holden MA. I packing them up to send next week.

I bought new center caps for my '56 but they are not painted. I think the color should be off white but the car is not stock so the color is not critical. What is the correct color and how do you paint the background like the picture? (Picture for reference only)

Update: I was considering rebuilding this pump but unless I am mistaken, there is supposed got be 2 clips that need to be removed in order to get the pivot pin out. I took some pictures and it seems there are no clips? I tried pressing the shaft out but it does not seem to move much.This does not seem rebuildable. I may have to find a US made pump. Anyone know who makes one?

More pics

More pictures

I decided to find out why all of the new fuel pumps I and others are getting are defective. I took a "pre-tested" pump I put in last year that lasted about 10 minutes, and took it apart. 1. The bottom bowl was clean and the diaphragm looked new. No debris and the valves look good. 2. Opened up the pump portion and the bowl was clean and the diaphragm was like new. 3. I pulled the pump diaphragm out and found the area behind it full of oil. 4. When I removed the diaphragm, the oil seal stayed in the pump. I am not sure if these use a retainer to keep the spring and seal on the shaft, but this did not have one. 5. The oil seal had silver colored residue. My preliminary opinion is that the oil seals fail and oil collected behind the diaphragm resulting it being unable to flex. I also think there is a problem with either the shaft or lever metal. I should not have been able to remove the diaphragm without removing the lever. I did note that prior to disassembly, the lever hardly moved by hand. Thoughts?

Where can I get a rebuild kit for my '56? I have tried 3 pumps and all are imported junk that either failed within a mile or just never worked. The last brand new one worked on the vacuum side but had no suction at the fuel inlet?? Thankfully I have an electric pump that initially was for priming and now runs full time with an inertia safety switch added. I have searched but have yet to find a kit. I am speculating that the problem is in the internal valves. THX

I totally agree. I have never consigned a vehicle and have it sell like we see on TV. If it where not for a storage problem, I would prefer not to use the auction.