CT Car Guy

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About CT Car Guy

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    www.larryboardman.com

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  1. Thanks. I am currently in touch with SAOCA and TEAE both who have been very responsive. Nothing definative yet but working on it.
  2. Thanks. I have been there and it just confuses me more. It is listed on the registry list dated Feb 2011 in MI ( No TAC) which the cars documents concur but it was Mr. Miller who dismissed the car as non-factory. I do plan to dive in and get the engine, transmission and differential numbers but am not sure if I can find a source to reference. I also plan to look at the grease points. I know that sounds strange but the Tiger and Alpine differ greatly with the number and locations. I attempted to see if I could get the car authenticated by the Tiger (TAC) but they primarily operate on the west coast. There is only one senior inspector on the east and he is several hundred miles way. FYI - they require 3 inspectors to concur so it is impossible to have this done. I am holding off purchasing the car until I can be absolutely sure it is genuine. They have had a lot of clones recently as the prices go up that are being passed off. THX Larry Connecticut
  3. I'm looking at a 1966 Sunbeam Tiger. There seems to be a question on the tags. Both the VIN and JAL tag are present and the VIN corresponds with the information I have been able to find for a Tiger. I have not been able to trace the JAL number (JAL is the Jensen body number assigned to Tigers). I contacted one database source and sent pictures and the response was which the tags were "homemade" and (he) could not "get excited" about the car. He flatly stated it is not a "factory" car. This seemed strange since tags are often lost and can be sourced with the right documentation. The tags look correct compared to other Tigers. I'm not sure I can trust the response so I am reaching out to my fellow ACA members for help. The physical characteristics of the car I have checked show no evidence that it is a clone or copy. Any help is appreciated. I can supply pictures of the tags if requested.
  4. I'm looking at a 1966 Sunbeam Tiger. There seems to be a question on the tags. Both the VIN and JAL tag are present and the VIN corresponds with the information I have been able to find for a Tiger. I have not been able to trace the JAL number (JAL is the Jensen body number assigned to Tigers). I contacted one database source and sent pictures and the response was which the tags were "homemade" and (he) could not "get excited" about the car. He flatly stated it is not a "factory" car. This seemed strange since tags are often lost and can be sourced with the right documentation. The tags look correct compared to other Tigers. I'm not sure I can trust the response so I am reaching out to my fellow ACA members for help. The physical characteristics of the car I have checked show no evidence that it is a clone or copy. Any help is appreciated. I can supply pictures of the tags if requested.
  5. I am considering buying a 1947 Indian Chief Roadmaster and hope that you all can help me. The engine and frame numbers match. Is there any registry or such where I can research this particular bike? This is an estate bike so there is not a lot of information. I need to determine if the paint is original or not since this would impact the price. It has not been run is several years but the engine does turn over. It is a battery model. My concern is the carburetor.. I have no idea what if any damage has been caused by ethanol. I understand these are very expensive. Are there rebuild kits? Anything else I should look for? Thanks for the help!
  6. They have the original radiator cap and it goes with the car. The repro was used when it was displayed.
  7. I think they understand that some negotiation will be needed. I explained that the "book" price is only a guide. The real price is what someone will pay and the seller agree to.
  8. I have a client that wants to sell her 1929 Cadillac Pheaton (not a Sport). This car is turnkey and ready to compete. It is fully restored and comes with some spare parts. It is in excellent condition. The car is located in Connecticut. If you are interested, please email me and I will put you in direct contact with the owner. If you need any specific pictures, let me know and I will take them. Asking $140,000. No dealers please. The owner wants to sell it to someone who will keep and enjoy it. Larry Boardman
  9. As an experiment, I took the weather stripping off. Major improvment on the driver door, not so much on the passenger but it was not too bad to start with.
  10. I just bought a 1956 T'Bird. Everyone calls it Coral Color but according to the color charts, it is Code K, Fiesta Red, I am having a few problems. 1. The previous owner had a power front disk brake setup installed using the original booster. The booster only goes to the front brake and there is no proportioning valve. When I first start driving it, within a few miles, the front brakes start dragging. Lifting under the pedal releases the pressure. This happens on and off. The pedal has about 1/4" more to return. This also causes the brake lights to stay on. I've adjusted the push rod to allow the master cylinder to push the pedal back but that has not helpped. I added a small spring to insure the pedal pulls up but it did not work. Ideas? 2. I've had 3 instances when the motor suddenly cut out. It seems like the fuel suddenly stops but it never stalled, just lost power. Very infrequent but dangerous when on the highway. I have both mechanical and electric fuel pumps. I only use the electric to prime. I don't know if its related but the motor gets hot on the highway. I traced it to timing. The distributor has a Pertronix unit. I checked timing today and while the vaccum advance unit checks out, the timing is not advancing the 12 or so additional degrees at 2000 rpm. I am waiting to hear from Pertronix to see what the gap should be. From my past use of these units, the current gap looks wide. The base plate moves but I think the wire routing may be interfering. Otherwise - I really lke the car. An excellent cruiser. Larry
  11. We finally got a decent day to take the T'Bird out. I just bought this for my wife. I've been trying to get her involved with classic cars for 10 years. I did notice the lower section of each door was not aligned with the body. I thought a simple striker adjust would do but it was not to be. The gaps in front of the door are narrow at the top and wider as it goes down. The bottom gap is straight. Any thoughts? While I do a lot of mechanical and electrical work on my antiques, when it come to paint and other body work, I farm it out. Before going any further, I wanted to see if you had any ideas. Pictures below. Larry In Connecticut where it snowed yesterday but today is in the mid 60s!
  12. I took the car out again and the pedal travel before braking seems long. While not having to press very hard, it feels like there is little power boost. Below are some pictures of the setup. Thanks, Larry
  13. Hi all: I am new to Thunderbirds (Not AACA). Came across a 1956 Sunset Coral car in beautiful condition. Now my wife wants it for herself. The previous owner put in power front disc brakes. I found that the car seems to take longer to stop then my other all drum brake cars. I also noted it took a fair amount of pressure. The master cylinder is a 2 circuit design with the rear brakes without power assist. The booster unit is the old style located remote (after) from the master cylinder. If I am going to get her to drive the car, I need to make it easier to stop. I am waiting on some service manuals. Ideas? Thanks Larry (AKA CT Car Guy)
  14. Tires - Excellent, Underside solid, exhaust solid. These pictures are from about a year ago hence the spider webs. Car has been in a dry, heated garage since then. I can take new pictures of any area you want.. I checked the body with both a plastic filler detector and a professional paint meter and could not find filler. Larry