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Everything posted by steveskyhawk

  1. Daniel and all, I have thought about this swap for a long time. I dont care for stock Reattas. I like them as the engineers and designers envisioned them before the accountants and marketing people got involved. I love to see these cars modified with OEM parts that in theory could have been available at the Craft Centre. I have multiple 1991 Reattas. Question for all: True or False. If one wanted a supercharged Reatta (dont we all?) the best way to accomplish this would be to start with a 1991 Reatta and a 1995 supercharged complete, running Riviera as the donor car.
  2. It is a shame that this new IPC overhaul has mixed reviews. My guess is there is no profit in this kind of service. If in time it turns out to be an unreliable shop, a good solution in my opinion to fix this problem is to replace the IPC with a good tested used unit. If anybody needs one I have them in my eBay store. Link below in my signiture.
  3. I always liked these. No issues with fit. They were an option on Rivieras and Park Avenues
  4. My take on DIY is twofold. The most important thing to do is carefully pick your battles. If you lack the tools, a lift, the experience or the disposal of Hazmat is necessary, the job is better left to the pros. Even simple stuff like a waterpump is sometimes better left to the pros. If your car is a daily driver the pros will have you back on the road sooner. If there are other unforseen problems they can be fixed at the same time and you are back in business. People that do these repairs every day also know who sells the least problematic part for the money. We have all been the rebuilt alternator route. Even though they are warranteed the labor charges arent, and who wants to install 4 of them to find the first three were defective. My mechanic (Harrington) chooses OEM for some items because other sources have been problematic. The dealer part is often times more expensive but the quality is often times better. When you install 10 waterpumps or alternators a week you will know which source is best. With the pros you are paying for this experience. They dont want to see you back. If you do need to have your car worked on finding a good mechanic is good fun in my opinion. I like to talk to people and see different shops and businesses. I first look to buisnesses in the area that have "car guys". I tell them what era cars I need work on and then go talk to the people they referred me to. I write as they talk. (Nobody is interested in taking time out to talk to you if you aren't paying attention.) I then follow up. When you find a shop that you seem to feel good about give them an easy job. See how they do on that. Dont go to a shop cold turkey and tell them you need an evaporator core in your Reatta. I hope you see my point. Somtimes it is best to "open the car up" prior to dropping the car off. If you decide to have your window motors replaced and/or the door lock actuators I find it is best to remove the doorpanels yourself. They are fragile and you can take your time. It may even save you a little labor time. If you decide to install new speakers and dynamat you will end up with a better job. FWIW
  5. A couple more pics answer a lot of questions. If a 1991 Select 60 were built what would it look like? I thought the tan and white would look good together so I made one. I'm sure you could have had one built back in 1991 if you asked the right people. Documentation wouldn't exist due to the fact it was non standard. I have had this 91 vert for years. I just wanted to see the car as it coulda woulda shoulda been. This is the same car as in my avatar and signature. Not new. Nearly 100K A little history. I bought this car from the original owner's daughter. She lived in Hollywood California. Kingsley had found it and I was told about it by from Mike at It didn't run but I bought it anyway. It had a short in the battery. New battery it and ran like new. It was originally purchased in Pasadena California by the then Mayor of Culver City. John "BROGGY" Brogdon. Mr Brogdon once ran for Los Angeles County Assessor. Years after the purchase I had business with the Assessor's office. I offhandedly asked the clerk if she remembered Mr Brogden and specifically his convertible. Her reaction was delightful. She remembered Mr Brogden, His Convertible and told me that he just loved that car. I like it too Note: If you look at the pic in post #6 you can see the ""Skyhawk" as in Steveskyhawk.
  6. Tallip and all, When you drop the plastic header panel be prepared to do some fiberglass cloth and resin work. Often times this panel is held together by the vinyl wrapping only. Some are worse than others. If you are careful you can make it stronger than new but you must be neat.
  7. Padgett, That is a good idea. Let me talk to the fabricator.
  8. It probably needs an oil pressure sending unit. Common symptom/problem. Easy fix
  9. I have an early car with the dark grey interior and a late car with the light grey interior. The difference is night and day. Interestingly the early car with the dark grey has a contrasting light grey carpet and the late car with the light grey has contrasting dark grey carpet.
  10. While I was on a short vacation from the forum I continued to work on reproduction parts for our Reattas. Question: If a 16 way seat is nice and comfortable for the driver then why wouldn't you want one for your passenger too? We have determined that "stereo" 16 way seats were available from the factory in 1989 Riviera T Type as an extra cost option and as a special order in your new Reatta if you were a new Reatta buyer and knew they were available. I have had reproduced the critical parts needed to do this upgrade. The part that is currently very hard to find is the switch pod bezel and it's mirror image for the passenger seat. These reproductions are nearly identical to the original part and are made of plastic. They look light years better than the original bent and dented bezels. With the posession of new matching bezels the conversion is easy. How many of you would be interested in doing this upgrade? Comments? This is not a commercial offering. Unit pricing has not yet been evaluated. I have one set of prototypes and am interested to know if others are interested in doing this upgrade.
  11. Walter and all, Here is a pic of the plaque. That car also has a suede tan color keyed headliner
  12. And it came with 16 way seats on both sides!
  13. I believe vintage parts has new ones for $200 or so.
  14. Kit and all, What I would do is replace it with another unit. They are pretty easy to come by as they are plentiful. Once you have your new one in then take apart the old one and report back to us what you find. I like to R&R components and then take the faulty unit apart when there is no rush to get it back in the car.
  15. The window seals on a Reatta convertible are a SECONDARY line of defense against water etc. The seal above the window is two pieces with a verticle seam which is clearly NOT water tight. If your top has shrunk to the point that these seals are visible then you need a new properly fitting top. Maybe Dave or the Reatta Division could buy these seals from Marck and have them reproduced. It would constitute a goldmine for whoever is willing to do a little work and invest a little money.
  16. Replace the bladder with a blood pressure cuff.
  17. Installing used 25 year old USED brake parts is a real BAD idea. I wish the cheapskates that keep suggesting this would stop with the terrible advice. Get new brake parts for your wife's car unless of course you would prefer a new wife.
  18. I have a nice rust free Driftwood coupe. Looking for a vert just like it
  19. Trey and all, If I were you I would take a picture of the master cylinder assembly on your car and take only that picture to the local independent repair shops in your area. If they recognize the Teves system and say "oh no problem" have your car towed to that shop. If a prospective shop owner has never seen this system and doesn't recognize it for what it is go somewhere else. In reality it is not an unusual or even rare system. Some people on this forum make a big deal out of simple routine repairs because they cost money. Under no circumstances should you bring any parts with you when shopping for a shop. If you do you will be labeled as a cheapskate or "mooche" and won't get anyone to even look at your car.
  20. I still kick myself for passing on that driftwood vert Ervin and I both looked at in Alpine CA
  21. The safe thing to do is find a shop that is familiar with this system and have the car towed there. Dont bet your life and that of others on mechanical advice from any forum. Some of the guys giving advice dont really know what is wrong. They are just guessing.
  22. 10% of all Reattas were non standard colors and color combinations. With such low production numbers finding an off standard car is difficult but not impossible.
  23. Roger makes a good point. To clarify my statement; When you bring in a late model vehicle where parts are readily available for service, the shop supplies all parts, labor and warranty. When the shop is unable to get discontinued or obsolete parts it is expected that the owner provide those.
  24. Bringing your own parts is the quickest way I know of to be shown the door of a repair shop. (And rightfully so) A large portion of a repair shop's income is generated by markup on parts that are provided by the shop. Why anyone would expect someone to work for free is beyond me. Anytime a shop's estimate is exceptionally high you can bet they dont want you as a customer and they are intentionally sending you away. The way the shop owner sees it if he has to work for somebody he dislikes he will make sure it is worth his while. Some people never learn this.