steveskyhawk

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Everything posted by steveskyhawk

  1. In consideration of the time spent removing the door panel and vapor barrier, I would lube the door lock linkages AND replace the actuators. They do get tired after the first 20 years. Just because they "fire" is no assurance that they will have the power to lock and unlock the doors reliably. They arent very expensive and can be purchased anywhere. They were used on many GM cars
  2. Blocking the grill with a license plate may be ok in a cold climate but I don't even like the original plate bracket. It is 70 degrees here today and it is not even 9 am!
  3. I pay $50 for good cores like this. The touch screen must be in nice condition. My shop hasn't found a source to restore the touchscreen finish
  4. I've noticed an irony concerning Corvairs. I had one long ago and so did my brother. It seems that people that actually owend and drove Corvairs loved their cars. People that have never even ridden in a Corvarir are experts on what a bad car they are. I think this is their loss. My Corvair was one of the most fun cars to drive I ever had and was very dependable.
  5. I like the look of the car without a tag. First thing I do when I get a car (or truck) is take the front tag and bracket off. The requirement to have a front tag is a law that is never enforced in California. Most cars and trucks dont have one here and I have never heard of someone getting a ticket for this. I assume the cops have better things to do. My Select 60 has a NOS bracket in the trunk in case the next owner wants it to be original. I think original is boring in this case.
  6. I have OVERHAULED CRT/touchscreen units on the shelf and ready to ship. I pay $50 for suitable cores payable upon return. No need to pull out the one out of your dash and ride around for a month with a hole in the dash waiting for it to be repaired. Contact information in my signature.
  7. We had 80s and 90s in February but it normally cools of a little in the spring. I get to see snow on the mountain tops where it belongs.
  8. I have removed quite a few of these Coil, ICMs packages and have found some are quite easy to remove and some are more difficult. It seems that it can be difficult depending upon the positioning of a big ground wire. I have also seen cars from wet climates that had ignition problems due to corrosion in this area. Second guessing the cost of this repair seems to be unfair. There could have been complications that were time consuming.
  9. That convertible sounds like a great deal. If you want to go look at it I would like to see it too. I'm in La Verne
  10. Walter and all, I sometimes toy with the idea of compiling a headlight fix hall of shame. I have seen pillows, bungees and all sorts of other mechanisms holding up headlights up. I have seen all of the homespun hardware which hasn't worked and has damaged the motors. I did see one fix where the repairman actually milled a bellcrank from a solid block of aluminum. This was one of the only field repairs that ive seen that was well executed
  11. Sounds to me like the remotes are working fine. The locking actuators in the doors always need replacing and can be purchased at any auto parts store. They were common to many GM cars.
  12. Sean and all, In my case the hinge cover was the problem. I had just done the interior in white and the hinge covers were "wrapped" in new white vinyl. The vinyl increased the thickness of the cover and pushed the pendelum slightly forward locking the seat. It only needs to move forward a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch. In any case a heat gun and some hand pressure on the hinge cover returned the clearance to normal and the seat was fixed. If I was unsucessful I was toying with the idea of drilling out the rivet that the pendulum swings from and eliminating the problem once and for all.
  13. I have complete CD (slave) kits listed in my eBay store. Please read my ads carefully. I have a listing that includes a CD player that has been overhauled by M&R and a different ad that includes a CD player that is "as removed". These kits are plug and play when installed in a 1990 model reatta or riviera. If you have a 1991 model I suggest an AM/FM/CD/EQ commonly called a "Bushwhacker"
  14. To all, For clarification: When the splices located in the racetrack or plastic conduit under the seats of a Reatta fail it is called an "open" circuit. It is nearly impossible for this failure to cause a "short" circuit. A "short" circuit is a situation where a positive wire inadvertantly contacts ground (steel body part). A short will indeed overheat a circuit and possibly blow a fuse. If Steve2150's car continually blows fuses the problem is probably not in the underseat racetrack. I would look elsewhere first. That is not to say there is no problem with the steel splices. There could be multiple faults in the wiring. In a car this age anything is possible at this point.
  15. The blower control module has failed. They are common to many GM cars and can be purchased anywhere.
  16. A failed splice will cause a failure of function not a blown fuse. I have a car that had similar symptoms. The problem was that one of the push-pull rods from the door lock mechanism was rubbing on the door lock wiring. This caused a short and an overheated door lock switch. I replaced the switch and taped up the bad spot in the wire's insulation and all is well now. All I can say is take it apart and look.
  17. It is early in the year to have temps that are at the limits. I would install a new radiator and a trans cooler before summer rolls around again. Radiators lose efficiency with age and time. Corrosion and sediment on the inside and dirt, pollen, etc on the outside. I dont think it is a good idea to expect much more than 75% from a cooling system that is over 20 years old. The problem will rear it's ugly head when OATs are 100*F plus, and when stuck in traffic.
  18. Sean and all, If when you remove the left hinge cover (16 way seat) you find that the seat back will then tilt forward, then you will know where the problem is. The hinge cover can interfere with the locking pendelum. If it (the pendelum) is pushed forward by the cover even a sixteenth of an inch the seat will lock in the upright position. I used a heat gun and some pressure to tweak the edge of the cover. This allows the pendelum to hang strait down and the seat will work properly.
  19. Both seats should work exactly alike. There is a pendelum in the left side seat hinge that normally hangs strait down. When stopping suddenly the pendelum swings forward and locks seatback in upright position. I have had this problem with my verts that got stereo 16 way seats. It was solved by removing the left seat hinge cover and insuring that there was adaquate clearance to allow pendelum to move freely.
  20. Those round Reatta dealership signs are indeed very nice and very collectible. I plan to sell mine at Barrett Jackson someday. Regardless what the purchase price is there is always the issue of shipping. These signs measure 36 inches in diameter and 7 inches thick. The box required to ship it needs to be about 42 inches square and about 12 inches thick. I have purchased 3 of these and each time the cost to properly pack, ship and insure was well over $300. FWIW
  21. Daniel, In your opinion would the PCM from the Riviera need to be moved to the Reatta? This is somthing everyone contemplating the swap will need to know.
  22. The machine shop that makes torque rollers for me has a lathe that turns the Delrin down to the proper diameter and then cuts it off to the proper length. Virgin 1/2 inch Delrin rod is fed in one end and the torque rollers are caught in a bucket on the other. I have them made by the thousand.
  23. Daniel and all, Would the end result be a car that ran exactly like the Riviera. California Smog Legal?