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steveskyhawk

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Posts posted by steveskyhawk

  1. Bobby and all,

    The schematic for the crt is unavailable from Zenith, GM etc.

    I have an overhaul shop that has re-written the schematic, identified and sourced the components.

    I have overhauled CRT/touchscreens with a 2 year warranty available in my eBay store.

  2. The cost of a complete 134a conversion is about the same as replacing a compressor and recharge on an R12 system. The high cost of R12 offsets the cost of the additional components required with the conversion. Most people look to the future and anticipate needing refrigerant in the future and consider the 134a conversion more cost effective even though it costs about the same as the R12 repair. ($700)

  3. ANYYHING CAN FAIL, LOOK AT THE SPACE SHUTTLE THAT WAS AT FIRST FIGURED TO HAVE ONE CATASTRPHIC FAILURE EVERY EIGHT HUNDRED FLIGHTS OR SO. THEN CHALLENGER, AFTER OVER TWO YEARS OF REWORK THE NUMBER WAS BROUGHT DOWN TO EVERY TWO HUNDRED. THEN ENDEVOUR COMES APART FROM A PIECE OF FOAM, THEN NO MORE SPACE SHUTTLE. THESE SYSTEMS WERE DESIGNED MAN RATED WITH TRIPLE AND HIGHER REDUNDUNCEY. MY Properly maintained 145,500 mile 90 coupe has never had anything but normal maintaince as did the 90 coupe bought new. I am sorry you have had trouble with your Teves, do you folks have the fluid flushed at least every two years even if it looks perfect? Back in my teens if a car hit 100,000 miles it was considered done, used up and you were lucky to go that far. Now it seems that if a valve cover starts a small leak at 100,000 folks gripe they don't build 'em like they used to.

    Sorry for the rant.

    Richard brings up a variety of good points. The space shuttle accidents were both failures of management not engineering. Properly maintained, Reattas and its systems (including Teves) are one of the most reliable cars on the road.

  4. I agree with Angelo. I have removed and replaced headliners in Reattas with and without sunroofs. It is time consuming which is why it is expensive to have it done. Being able to match the color isn't easy. You wont find the proper material where your wife or grandmother get their crochet supplies as some have suggested earlier. Another problem with amateur restorations is that rattle can adhesives and vinyl dyes are NOT the same as is commonly used at professional shops.

    Some money can be saved if you remove, clean, repair and replace the headliner board AND take control of the color match by finding an auto upholstery supply house and buying the material yourself. Applying the material to the board should be left to the pros.

    Time is money.

  5. Removal and replacement of the headliner board will save you a considerable amount of money however it is best to leave the recovering of the board to the pros. The glue that comes in a rattle can is NOT the same as the glue that the upholstery shop uses. This is one job better left to the pros if you want it to look good and last.

  6. Interesting. That photo came with a group of other BMC photos that included pictures of a "prototype" Reatta convertible. It included matching painted mirrors and the rear reflector painted to match the body. The prototype didn't have the Reatta Script on the BSM.

  7. Has anybody had any luck getting an original style muffler from a local shop? Is the 88-90 different fom the 91? I have a 91 with a bark and it quiets down when it gets warm. No two of my cars drive exactly the same. They all have a personality all their own.

  8. When I bought my 91 convertible it would not run. The car looked nice but needed a GOOD jump start to run. Once running it would quit when driven 10 feet. Bought it anyway. Had it flatbedded to my mechanics shop. Repair order read "just bought car...doesnt run... make it run." Risky you say? Not really. Too bad NEMO cant find a competent, honest shop like this. They called me at 4:30 PM same day and told me that the car's battery had an internal short. They replaced the battery and it has run fine without a problem since.

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