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steveskyhawk

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Everything posted by steveskyhawk

  1. Stock market at an all time high indicates the economy is anything but shakey and the guide to valuation is not ebay.
  2. Daniel, In your opinion would the PCM from the Riviera need to be moved to the Reatta? This is somthing everyone contemplating the swap will need to know.
  3. Daniel and all, Would the end result be a car that ran exactly like the Riviera. California Smog Legal?
  4. Daniel and all, I have thought about this swap for a long time. I dont care for stock Reattas. I like them as the engineers and designers envisioned them before the accountants and marketing people got involved. I love to see these cars modified with OEM parts that in theory could have been available at the Craft Centre. I have multiple 1991 Reattas. Question for all: True or False. If one wanted a supercharged Reatta (dont we all?) the best way to accomplish this would be to start with a 1991 Reatta and a 1995 supercharged complete, running Riviera as the donor car.
  5. steveskyhawk

    IPC black

    Bobby and all, The schematic for the crt is unavailable from Zenith, GM etc. I have an overhaul shop that has re-written the schematic, identified and sourced the components. I have overhauled CRT/touchscreens with a 2 year warranty available in my eBay store.
  6. The cost of a complete 134a conversion is about the same as replacing a compressor and recharge on an R12 system. The high cost of R12 offsets the cost of the additional components required with the conversion. Most people look to the future and anticipate needing refrigerant in the future and consider the 134a conversion more cost effective even though it costs about the same as the R12 repair. ($700)
  7. Richard brings up a variety of good points. The space shuttle accidents were both failures of management not engineering. Properly maintained, Reattas and its systems (including Teves) are one of the most reliable cars on the road.
  8. I suspect that a radiator on a car that has 100,00 miles or more has lost some of its ability to exchange heat as it was designed to do. Road debris (be it microscopic) contaminates the outside and there is a certain amount of scale inside any used radiator. If this combined contamination reduces efficiency as much as 15% is the radiator adaquate at say 100+ degrees with the air on? How much was it over built to begin with? Under these conditions have we exceeded the margins? We all know that the bean counters ruled in the 80s and 90s. I dont suspect the radiator was too big the day the
  9. Sounds perfect. Rather than opt for expensive and complicated "fixes" for some mechanical issues I go for the simple. I have put a new radiator in a car and it eliminated those "excursions" above half way on the temperature gage. New Radiator is only about a hundred bucks.
  10. Exactly. You could at least determine the near exact temperature that your thermostat opened
  11. Could the use of a digital infra red thermometer at least verify some of the normal operating numbers?
  12. Car parts shouldn't be a problem for the TSA. If you check your bag it eliminates the possibility of a problem.
  13. I agree with Angelo. I have removed and replaced headliners in Reattas with and without sunroofs. It is time consuming which is why it is expensive to have it done. Being able to match the color isn't easy. You wont find the proper material where your wife or grandmother get their crochet supplies as some have suggested earlier. Another problem with amateur restorations is that rattle can adhesives and vinyl dyes are NOT the same as is commonly used at professional shops. Some money can be saved if you remove, clean, repair and replace the headliner board AND take control of the color m
  14. Removal and replacement of the headliner board will save you a considerable amount of money however it is best to leave the recovering of the board to the pros. The glue that comes in a rattle can is NOT the same as the glue that the upholstery shop uses. This is one job better left to the pros if you want it to look good and last.
  15. Kevin, Did you ever consider becoming a technical adviser for the Reatta division? I think you will do an excellent job.
  16. "I need to know the voltage necessary to send the mute and disc-on signals to mute the radio tuner and play from the remote." I used 12v and it has worked fine for years
  17. AMEN. I agree with Ronnie. Barney's made up database has "entertainment" value only and harms the value of many cars.
  18. If you are planning on tinting the rear window I would take the car to the tint shop with these panels removed. It makes for an easier work around for the tinter and a neater job.
  19. Two Door, What color is the paper manual that is contained in the black binder? My photo is of a prototype owner's portfolio or simply an extremely early photo.
  20. Interesting. That photo came with a group of other BMC photos that included pictures of a "prototype" Reatta convertible. It included matching painted mirrors and the rear reflector painted to match the body. The prototype didn't have the Reatta Script on the BSM.
  21. This is what the portfolio is supposed to look like. The other picture is a nice Riviera being prepared for the 400 point judgeing at Ames Iowa.
  22. A full size cover does more harm than good if your car is stored outdoors and the cover is left on for extended periods of time. A full size car cover costs 3-5 times as much as a California Pop Top. The full size cover will last just about forevever because they are such a pain to put on and take off that it will never leave the trunk. Full size covers also take up alot of room in the trunk. The California Pop Top has a built in pocket for storage and bundles up about the size of a football when not in use. The California Pop top is the only cover I have ever bought that I actually used. Chec
  23. Should be a real humorous collection. Will it have clips of the Reatta burnouts in the Cracker Barrel parking lot?
  24. Had the cat put on today and now she purrs again.
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