Swifster

Members
  • Content Count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Swifster

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  1. Check car-part.com as they show roughly a dozen wheels from $75 to $125. If you still have your wheel, check with your local body shop and the wheel can be reconditioned as new for approximately $180.
  2. Can anyone suggest a good source for a windshield channel (gasket) for a '57 Nash Rambler Cross Country wagon? Don't see one list by Steele.
  3. The car is in the shop and being worked on. Any help in locating a moulding would be appreciated. I'd hate to think there are no usuable mouldings out there. Thanks!
  4. Hello, my name is Tom Allen. I'm an independent damage appraiser in Central Florida. I'm working to help repair a 1957 Chrysler 300C that had the hood blow up on it. I know these are rare, and I know they are expensive. I'm willing to allow for a fair (or more than fair) price for a hood. If you know someone that has a spare hood, please pass this on. If you have a hood that you are willing to sell, please e-mail me the details and a picture of the hood. Thank you for any help you can provide. Tom Allen Sterling Appraisal Service sterlingappraisalsvc@tampabay.rr.com p.s., the hood looks better than it is. The hood is 'oil canned' and both corners are buckled and twisted.
  5. Still looking for the body side moulding in the photo. Any help would be appreciated.
  6. Dave, thanks for the confirmation. I found some pics of a Fairlane being restored with most of the floorboards replaced. What wasn't messed with looked black (original e-coat). Semi-gloss (chassis black) it is! Thanks!
  7. While taking a small break from my '64 Studebaker Daytona, I'm doing a little playing (and stress relief) by working on a model car. It's a '67 Comet Cyclone GT and I want to start on the chassis. I know the engine compartment of most Fords at that time was semi-gloss black, including the firewall , radiator support and aprons. With this being a unibody car, how far back did this go? The entire underside? Just to the end of the engine compartment with the rest the same as the body? Primer? Anyone have any pictures of a well detailed restoration? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  8. All of the information listed above is correct. This is how the numbers breakdown... 0 = 1960 U = Assembly Plant (Louisville, KY) 12 = Ranger 4-dr sedan V = 223 6-cyl w/1 BC 700391 = Sequential Build at Louisville starting with 700,001 58A = 4-dr sedan M = Lower Body Color (Polar White) J = Upper Body Color (Regal Red) 1 = ? 20 = Ranger Standard Trim (Silver & Black) 21J = 21st day of Sept (J) 1 = Standard 3-Spd transmission (Manual) 1 = 3.56 w/o Equa Lock Good luck with the sale
  9. I'm an independent insurance appraiser and I am dealing with a 1930 Hup Model S. I'm looking for a front bumper assembly to replace one damaged in an accident. Failing that, I'd be happy locating a pair of clamp brackets. If necessary, I can have the chrome bars replated, but the clamp brackets are completely missing. Would appreciate any and all help. Tom Allen Sterling Appraisal Service sterlingappraisalsvc@tampabay.rr.com
  10. I've talked to Jarrod and he's got the fender skirt and the trim ring. He doesn't have the mouldings.
  11. The shop and I agreed on a repair time for the fender. But a couple guys who repair stainless feel the moulding is unrepairable. So now I'm looking for a body side moulding for the fender. Anyone have a spare laying around?
  12. Which brings me to the mouldings.... The shop and I agreed on a repair time for the fender. But a couple guys who repair stainless feel the moulding is unrepairable. So now I'm looking for a body side moulding for the fender. Anyone have a spare laying around?