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tblack

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Everything posted by tblack

  1. Hard to tell but looks as though the cylinder block and stater generator have remnants of the early buick green
  2. Found another picture of my now gone 1916 D35 I was the second owner and it last ran in 1938...no paint but I did paint it after the rebuild
  3. Nice pictures....that light green on the 23 was I think an original type color for the early 20's......I guess I will not paint, just clean and oil. I did paint the water pump and the fan is already black. My engine was sprayed a light gray and I have since scraped it all off. The lifter guides and holders were Black under the gray spray....The black paint was adhering well. My guess the gray paint came in the early 50's and the black paint earlier or original...I'm leaving these parts bare metal as oil will protect them. I buttoned up the lower end today, waiting for the cylinder block and then see how the modified cages work out. Perhaps someday I'll aquire the proper cages, valves and springs but the mix and match should work for now
  4. I like the green...I think it was the color in the mid 20's. Interesting if Terry would weigh in I see his engine is coming apart for a rebuild but I cant see it clear enough to see if it is painted. I'm tempted to not paint but when it is apart and clean it is the best time to paint Could be just personal preference in the end. Here are a couple other views of originals from the internet
  5. Don is your upper cylinder block painted? I was looking on the internet saw a very original E49 only thing painted was the pump (black) Spark wire conduit(Black) fan (greenish) and vacuum tank body black...like this one my steering mast is nickel.
  6. morgan...I looked over the black oxide...way to complicated for my purposes...I have cold blued and browned gun parts in the past and this is a similar process.
  7. I took this engine, 4 speed transmission drive and split drive shaft out of a 1949 2r truck .......since the engine number starts with a 4 it is the 246 upgrade but the serial numbers imply it came out of a 1951. Presently the engine is stuck probably from sitting for 40 years it ran when parked but the guy never got to his planned truck restoration, the truck had a full load of antifreeze when i removed the parts. Engine is complete except missing the starter and carb and air cleaner. Heavy items so pick up only. $300 for all....$50 extra if you want the radiator and radiator bracket.
  8. Early buick engine painting. As my 1917 d45 engine is apart but will going back together soon it seems like the time to get some input on engine painting First were these engines and or components painted at all in the day? Upper cylinder block... color? Engine pan ? rocker arm stands? Rocker arms? lifter housing and lifter support brackets? Starter Generator? Pump? Push rods? Fan? On my 4 cylinders 16 and 17 I painted the block and head Model A green.....
  9. I recognize that upper block picture by Morgan as a 1918 with 2 different size valves...but yes the 16 has the same shelve any they can not fall through.
  10. Larry..I here ya they are great machines. Morgan...I got all the cages out of your 18 upper cylinder block 3 of the 6 exhaust cages are partly broken at the top of the guide but not as bad as some of my 17 cages. Like the 23 cages these are 1/4 longer than the 17 cages...actual they look identical to the 23 cages. So if I use these they will need to be shortened. Per the rocker towers they are identical to my 17's but the arms are different so as to work on the upsized engine with the staggered valves of different sizes. Valves seem to be same as 23. Between the parts of 3 engines I should make something that will work. While the serial number indicates 1917....it has donor organs from 1918, 1923, 1949 (connecting rods and pistons) and 283 chevy valves installed in my 1917 cages.
  11. Yes washers it will be. Morgan....I use "Habrek Auto Diesel" in amsterdam, ny. I sold my South Bend heavy 10 lathe when I moved it would have worked well for this cage modification, there are many hidden costs in downsizing!!
  12. Morgan ...thanks that made life easy see you Saturday 11 AM for pick up. I took a 17 cage and a 23 cage to the machine shop and they will protype a cut down 23 cage for me to start work with. So in the end the 17 buick will have (6) 23 cages and (6) 18 cages....I will have (10) 17 cages available but they were bored out to accept larger stem valves. I believe they could be rebushed back to original but no one seems to have anything handy to measure an original as for reference. From your research the valves and springs used on the D smaller six 16 and 17's carry the model numbers of earlier Buicks...trouble is I can't relate the model numbers to actual dimensions Good thing I pulled the upper cylinder block off to drive out the valves as this revealed other things. I could see the shim on connecting rod # 2 protruding out at a 90 degree angle to how it is supposed to be installed. This rod is tighter on the shaft than the others...where is the other part of the shim riding on the babbitt? Off came the pan and it was noted that the bearing cap bolts on this rod were "torqued" at less than 10 lbs. I never found the shim half but I installed 2 shims to each side and plastigaged to .002 at 35 lbs....I checked another it was torqued to 45 and the plastigage revealed .0015. Cylinder # 5 has a straight line gouge caused by a loose wrist pin sometime before they completed a sort of rebuild in the 50's. They compensated for probable oil loss by installing a Champion Com 2 plug that fouls less frequently. Also in the "rebuild " they replaced the pistons and connecting rods. If I remember correctly on the 17's the wrist pin was held fixed to the piston and the connecting rod articulated on the pin. The 4 cylinder used a cotter pin to hold the wrist pin to the piston and it was a common problem for the cotter pin to fail allowing the wrist pin to travel and gouge the cylinder. On the rebuild they used connecting rods that held the wrist pin fixed and the pistons articulated on the pin. My latest question can any one identify what my connecting rods are casting number 35272 B49 My guess is B49 is a date stamp Feb 1949.....The rods were off a splash system and they are babitted. Chevy was still babbit and splash for the rods in those years. If any one can figure this out let me know. Also I would appreciate any info on the valves and springs used on the 16 and 17 6 cylinder buicks......Even though I'm using the reconfigured cages I could maybe use like valves and springs. My rocker towers are shimmed to accomodate the odd valve spring set up I now have and I would like to ultimately order valves and springs that are correct. Also the connecting rod bolts seem a bit long for the application as the cotter pins barely catch the slots in the castle nuts......can I use a flat washer under the nut and then torque or buy deeper castle nuts or new connecting rod bolts? Thoughts??? A project indeed
  13. Interesting research on the valves. Any master book info on springs? Does anyone have a valve handy to measure. Face diameter, Stem diameter, length and size and location of the keeper hole? Also does anyone have an original spring to measure Free length, Wire size wire material ,number of coils and spring diameter. Given the spring info I can use an online spring calculator to back figure the lbs rating. Has anyone purchased replacement springs ? From who? The valves I have are 283 chevy I think...length 4.825 " stem .3375" face diameter 1.48" modern keeper fits almost flush with the end. The springs I have are free length 2.125 " wire diameter .15" Spring diameter 1.125" Pressing the cage to open position it takes about 30 lbs.....the 1923 valve cage took about 60 psi Original spring I'm guessing would have been longer Maybe closer to 3" length, diameter could be be as much as 1.3" and still fit inside the lock nut and the wire size was probably a little heavier. So if anyone has anything definitive to measure it would be greatly appreciated. Short term I'm cleaning up the upper block that I removed and I'm pulling the pan to verify that the connecting rod bearing fits are tolerable. Turning out to be a project!!!
  14. Don thanks for the input.....From what I can gather from various sources. The 18 exhaust cages would have used a a valve stem approximately .375 while the 16 and 17 would have been closer to .31 Trouble is mine have been opened up to fit 283 chevy valves stems .3415 no bushing . Using a 283 valve in an 18 cage would be bushing with bronze sleeves down to the 283 stem size. Ive got 6 1923 valve cages, springs valves etal and with minor machineing I can make these work. I will probably go that route and use the best six of the 16 valves. I'll continue looking for complete 18 to 23 cages valves etal and reinstall those in time. thanks
  15. I laid everything out and measured. The 1923 exhaust valve cages are not interchangeable with 1917. They are of proper diameter top 1.68 Inches but their length is from upper bevel to to lower valve seat is 1/4" longer than the 1917 cages. The locking nut would not screw down far enough to hold the the cage in properly. This in itself could be overcome with some machining but the valve stem diameter is considerably larger and the spring pressure is probably too great for the 17 rocker towers and pushrods to handle. Using the bathroom scale it takes 60 lbs to open the the 23 valve and 30lbs to open the 17 valves. With that being said I have 2 cages that the valve guides are broken. Both of these each have bent valves and one has a mangled spring. Seems as though my earlier suspicion that the valves they used years ago were exhaust valves from a chevy 283 engine might be correct. Anyone have two 16 or 17 valve cages?? If so I think I can make them work continuing with the 283 set up. Stems on the 283 valves are .341 not sure what the original valves were . The stems on the 23 valves are .375 Also does anyone know what the spring pressures were for 16 and 17? Any thoughts on whether the old cages with broken guides could be refitted with 283 valve guides?? Thanks
  16. Morgan thanks for the offer I'll see what's in the 23 engine as supposedly ...the exhaust valves are the same. keep you posted
  17. I got the upper cylinder block off, Drove out the pistons and cages without further damage. Pistons stand tall and bearings seem tight so I'm not looking for trouble on that end. I re-aquired a 23 engine and will compare the cages and valve set up. If I stay with the valves as boogered together in the 50's then I need 2 new ones or I could take 2 valves out of the 23 and group them in one cylinder and adjust the rocker tower for that new set up. #5 cylinder has a groove worn in the cylinder from some drifting wrist pin some where in its past. That problem seems to have been corrected and the oil it might burn was dealt with by using a dual electrode plug in that cylinder. In an ideal world this engine might get rebuilt but it will work for my purposes.
  18. Morgan thanks for the info ...I also spoke to Terry Weigand last night. on the 16 and 17 all cages were the same smaller size for both intake and exhaust...Starting with 18 through the end of the cage valve era in 23 they are as you say small exhaust (same as 16 and 17) and larger intake. Per Terry If I can aquire exhaust valves and cages from 18 to 23 then I could use them as either intakes or exhausts in the 16 or 17. This narrows it down a bit. I am pulling the upper cylinder block and will drive the valves and cages out. Found this works without damaging the old parts. Also I get a chance to inspect the pistons, rings and get an initial" feel" on the connecting rods and wrist pins with the cylinder block off and the pistons dangling.
  19. Well I got it started today but it will take some work for it to run decently. I was looking for a project and I guess I got one. I had unstuck 2 valves and 1 of them restuck. Need to look at all the valves but the cages are really stuck they have been soaking in PB Blaster for at least 3 weeks no go. I'm going to pull the upper block and then drive them out. Pending on what I see I may look to find proper valves and springs, maybe new rocker stands and see if the push rods are original. The valves presently are modern valves with wedge split keepers. The rocker stands are shimmed with 3 washers on each stud and 2 of the 6 rocker stands have repair welds. I'd like to return to original...on the 225 engine for 16 and 17 all the cages are the same size. In 18 they went to 2 size cages with the 246 engine. Were the smaller of these cages the same size as the 16 and 17. If so are they interchangeable. Do the smaller cages on 18 to 23 the same and would they work? Cage valves are great concept but when they are stuck after 50+ years of sitting it is a challenge.
  20. I was wondering if the back windshield was period correct. Apparently it is "JH" Tonneau Shield Co Inc 518-522 W 5th St New York NY pat Feb 28, 1912 June 1, 1920 Hoping to start the car soon as all the parts and pieces are back in place
  21. You are welcome to the ohio plate but it looks as though it is a 1916. There was some confusion when this car was first registered and it was registered as a 1916....the numbers though clearly place it in 1917. Another delay today as I found the upper radiator hose connection is pretty rotted away so it is off to the shop to join the gas tank for some rehab!!! These things take time.
  22. My 2nd fan belt is here on monday and the gas tank maybe late next week....then ready to fire it over and maybe take a ride......I found a pair of matching 1918 NY plates for your car I give them to you then. I put up the top..it needs some repair and the side curtains are in pretty good shape. Last evidence that the car ran was a 1976 car show tag.
  23. The belt arrived and I was excited to get the car back together... but .... when the belt was cinched tight the fan ring was directly under the upper hose for the radiator and barely touched it. As the radiator was recored in the past it is possible that it lost a little clearance...so I found a slightly shorter belt that should work...if it works I'll post the Dayco numbers.
  24. optical illusion perhaps but your 41 seems to be riding low...attached is one I owned years ago to view for comparison
  25. I went the long route radiator, lights, hood and fan...but a good chance to clean up the front of the engine....good news I drained 2-1/2 gallons of new full strength anti freeze so the radiator nor anything else is leaking. If the system were dry I would be worried about the radiator forming scale. Larry thanks for the tip on the float I'll follow up on that.
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