Nile
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Posts posted by Nile
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I agree totally with everything Reaper said. Here are some random thoughts:
Are your plugs not only the correct ones, but are they ok? It sounds like they've been through a lot in the last few months and could have been damaged, so it might be worth it to replace them before incurring the expense & aggravation of a head job. BTW, $2,000 sounds a bit steep. I bought a 16v engine with a bad head gasket and had the head rebuilt (2 bent valves) for $900 plus guides & seals which I got from Rick D.
I've replaced the odo gears in 2 TC's and both turned out fine - which is somewhat remarkable given my mediocre mechanical skills. I've also redone 3 valve cover gaskets without incident, or leaks.
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Two additions: #202042 89 Yellow/Ginger/Black 16v runs fine and #203889 89 RC/Bordeaux/Black 16v runs fine
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Not sure if this contributed to your issues, but "modern" gas containing ethanol simply does not retain it's potency very long. Once I started running ethanol-free premium in my TC's their drivability improved. Also, ethanol attracts water - not good. Over the winter I use an enzyme-based additive, Startron, in my TC's and other old cars and mowers to keep the fuel fresh and water out. And like Hemi said - replace the filter.
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I'll trade you a NOS 16v head for the shift knob
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My experience is the same as ghosty's; here's an easy way to tell - wait till it's dark and look the car over, you may see a glow - which will be your culprit. I had a Generic Motors truck with a battery drain - drove me nuts for weeks until one night a noticed a slight glow between the passenger's visor and headliner - turned out the light for the vanity mirror stayed on.
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Might be connections for some kind of aftermarket stereo/CD. It's not unusual for people to remove the units, but leave the wiring before they sell a vehicle.
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When you see the stock blow off valve and the where it's located, it will be pretty obvious why you need that upgrade. The sound it makes when you let off the gas is great, too! The installation was straightforward and I took some extra time to clean under and around the battery tray.
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Rick's email is rick@rdiperformance.com. Last phone # I had for him is 561-523-4684. I've never driven an 8v car as all mine are the 16v's and oomph off the line is not a problem at all. It may be that the automatic trans saps some power so an 8v with Rick's updated SMEC and a 5 speed conversion might be an awesome package. I think there just might be someone active on this forum who's done that 5 speed conversion, too!
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I agree with Reaper. 2 bits of advice 1). Make sure the ownership documents are in order. 2). Bring a bunch of $50 bills with you and wave maybe $600 under the seller's nose.
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Not sure if this would even be a factor, but given the fragility of the TC's braking system, would these wheels allow for enough air flow to help forestall heat build -up?
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Jim - When I got my second TC I noticed a difference in the tool kits - why did one have a philips head screw driver while the other one had a flat blade? It took a while, but I did eventually figure out that the screwdriver shaft is reversible. I've also seen a variety of colored handles for the screwdrivers - not sure if there's one correct color or if all are ok. If you ever find a tool kit that has a "Sterlix" box that isn't squashed it might qualify for the Guiness Book of records.
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Getting back to gymowner's original query, there is a MUCH simpler way to improve performance. For a fraction of what the Biturbo swap would cost, just get Rick Diogo's SMEC upgrade. Even with my rudimentary mechanical skills I was able to do the complete installation in just over a hour. The gain for either the 8v or 16v engine is about 35hp, so for the latter you're looking at a minimum of 235hp. In the real world it feels like more. The effect on my 16v car was stunning, not only in the increase in power, but also in drivability and sound (with higher boost the turbo makes wonderful noises when you let off the power).
Only a few of the Biturbo motors exceed that figure and given their low production, finding a good one might be difficult. Then there's installation - will it physically fit and how will it interface with the ancillary systems (cooling, electric, etc) and how will it mount. Another issue is the transmission - the Chrysler automatic of that era probably cannot handle the power; the Getrag can, but will it mate up to the Biturbo v-6? If not, what tranny do you use? If it's a different one, will it match up to the driveshafts? If not, what ones will you use and will torque steer now become an issue?
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Thanks guys. The car affected is my red TC which has the hardtop on. I agree that running the engine probably produced enough heat to correct the condition, but will check the door switches.
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Last week I took one of my TC's for a drive (90 16v, red/black/black) and parked it back in the barn - all was well. Yesterday I went into the barn and noticed the cars all had quite a bit of condensation. Today when I checked, the seat belt/door ajar chime was dinging away. The car doors and trunk were closed. So I got the keys and it cranked & fired normally. I latched the seat belt yet the dinging persisted. So I went to get a wrench to disconnect a battery cable and when I returned, you guessed it, no dinging. Rather than attribute this to Italian electrical serendipity and ignore it, I thought I'd ask the assembled brain trust, "any ideas?" I'm leaning toward the condensation causing an electrical gremlin, but that seems too easy.
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I don't think an alternator issue would affect whether or not the compressor is working. It could be as simple as not having enough freon in the system. Make sure you have the freon pressure checked before adding any and if the pressure is too low, make sure you use the correct freon (eg: has your car been converted to 134a or is it still R12). It's also possible there may be some electrical connection somewhere that needs to be cleaned - not that our TC's ever experience this.
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I have 5 16v TC's, 4 of which run, 1 of them rather well.
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I bought it. Very nice car, honestly described.
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Looks like the Carlisle website is incorrect and I came in second in the Shootout. There was a very well driven Neon on racing slicks who was .1 second faster than me. In the past slicks had either been disallowed or penalized 2 seconds. That didn't happen in 2017. I'm a little embarassed about this. Looks like the slicks will not be allowed in 2018. At any rate I'm highly motivated for 2018 (and doin my rain dance).
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Now that April is here I thought I'd take the tops off of the cars and enjoy some fresh air motoring. The top came off the yellow TC just fine, but I can't get the top off the Royal Cabernet one - see picture. Anyone have any ideas?
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Yes - $125 plus shipping. If you're interested please send me a pm and I'll forward some pictures.
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I've got a tool kit - $125 plus shipping and a service manual - $65 plus shipping. If you're interested send me a private message and I'd be glad to send pictures.
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Joel Jasinski is the man. I bought one from him and it was a straightforward installation helped along by his excellent instructions. Nice product - perfect fit, and included the spark plug o ring gaskets as well. Best of all - no leaks! There should be info on this site on how to contact him. If not, send me a PM and I'll give you his phone number.
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Here's something that worked very well for me. The replacement top fits right and does not leak (unlike my hardtop). Keep in mind I replaced a badly worn tan canvas top with an excellent black Hartz cloth top - so that change may have had something to do with the improvement, but here's what I did.
1). Install the top, but do not tighten the 6 bolts which hold the top in place.
2). Secure the top to the windshield header as tightly as possible with as precise side to side alignment as possible.
3). Tighten the 6 bolts, then close the tonneau and check to make sure that the rear latch pull down blades are centered perfectly within the holes in the tonneau.
4). If necessary (and it probably will be necessary), slightly loosen the 6 bolts and adjust so the pull down blades are exactly centered. Repeat until you get it right.
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Sports Car Market recently added the TC to their list of collector cars with a median value of $4,900 for an automatic, with the 5 speed being 25% higher. This is based on actual sales at auction. These cars are usually in excellent cosmetic condition, but potential mechanical problems could substantially lower those numbers. As far as mileage is concerned, TC odometers are so notorious for failure most buyers would be skeptical unless you can document the miles as true. But if the miles are true, you run into Hemi's concern about mechanical issues due to lack of use.
How replace brake light switch?
in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
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My brake lights, including the nerdlamp no longer work. They are not getting power. The fuses, grounds and bulbs are ok. The signals and tail lights work fine as does the cruise control, but not the interior lights. I assume the culprit is one, or even both, of the brake switches. I have a parts car so parts, theoretically, are not a problem. After eyeballing the switches I'd guess someone 1/3 my age might have a chance at removal & installation. Is there an easy way to replace the switches?