northern wayne

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About northern wayne

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  1. Hmmm....I will try to post a photo. I had sent a number of photos to Fusick (good people, by the way)and they helped clear up one mystery, it seems my 57 Roadmonster has 1958 Power brakes. Perhaps car was made late in the model year? The displacement shaft is corroded three quarters of the way around and in a band measuring about three eighths of an inch, plus or minus. The only roughness in the bore of the cylinder is in an area where there is a notched spacer about one inch in height that fits in loosely. So I do not imagine this area would cause me any grief. I have located , through Fusick, a supplier for the shaft ($80 US= about $104.00 Canadian.) I also have a tool maker friend that is going to look at it and perhaps make one for me., He builds amazing miniature engines!!
  2. Brake pedal went to the floor a couple of times....decided to rebuild the master cylinder. 1957 power brakes, Roadmaster Noticed on the teardown that the power piston had a corroded area. I thought that with all the other new parts from "Fusick"? I might be ok. Put it all back in and "no-go" so it is all apart again and I need a power piston. Anybody know where I can get one???? Wayne at
  3. Hmmmm....just received a overhaul price from Gene at "TransmissionsbyGene" in California ......$4895.00 in his shop. Seems a trifle I wrong?
  4. adding some more "history".....the transmission leaks, has ever since I got the car. I almost...almost wish the transmission would quit entirely so that I would be forced to pull it out. However, I would rather have a rebuilt replacement ready to go in. I am starting the search up here for someone who knows Dynaflows and is not chained to a bed in some care home!! Car still seems overly sluggish on acceleration with what seems like a vibration when accelerating but not when cruising. I am interested in any and all relevant input. Know anyone within a day or so drive of Winnipeg Manitoba that knows and works on dynaflows??
  5. 1957 Roadmaster, engine runs perfectly, new ignition, new plugs, new wires, new fuel pump, new carb, etc etc. However, upon acceleration there seems to be a vibration or shudder resulting in slow pick up. It has been suggested to me that it could be a torque converter damaged. In reading up on the dynaflow I came across the fact that the index hole in the crank has to be aligned with the index hole in the flywheel. (is this correct???) Secondly, did I put it out of balance when I turned the flywheel with a pry bar in order to put the torque converter drain hole at the bottom?????
  6. car has not sat idle much at all. Have been dealing with this all summer. Transmission has been drained and fluid replaced last winter. All systems are good, leaving just the torque converter as suspect. Minus thirty today, so not in big rush to tackle transmission today.....will start in a week or so.
  7. Well, I have not done anything as yet. Will start in the next week or so. It is thirty below today so summer driving is not uppermost in my mind! Exhaust system is fine, fluid was drained out of trans and replaced last winter, engine runs perfectly, not much left to suspect other than the torque converter!
  8. Getting myself primed up to remove the trans in my 57 buick. I have installed electronic ignition, new plug wires, new plugs, found my carburetor to be burned through on the bottom, had it re-machined and rebuilt, replaced fuel pump and fuel lines, added an in-line fuel pump. Motor now runs beautifully. Measures up good on vacuum and cylinder pressure, responds to accelerator better than ever.....BUT, I do not seem to be getting power to the road, sluggish and slow. Wondering about torque converter????? The trans does leak some fluid. Any thoughts from you Buick fans out there? Am I on the right track regarding the converter??? I have looked at some older posts regarding dynaflows....looking to start some new conversations. I do have a hoist that I hope will help if I have to pull the tranny.
  9. Sooo...I have been looking at the running boards on my 38 Buick. I am not the first owner of this car and I do not have a record of all that was done to it. However, the running boards have a fibre-glass cover over them. The passenger side looks like some repairs have been attempted but the driver's side is in good shape. Enough to tell that it is a complete fibre-glass cover over the running board. Identical in appearance to the rubber covered ones.(fibre-glas makes for a slippery surface) Has anyone else come across this? Do you know where they are available? I would much rather have rhe rubber surface but unless someone steals my boards I am not putting out $1800 for new ones.
  10. I have a 57 roadmaster, not much fits from a special or a century. There is an ad in the BCA magazine under parts for sale. "1957 Roadmaster or Super fenders, hoods, trunks etc. Ronald Patterson, BCA#44789 (479)970-9518. He sent me some stuff and I am up in Canada. Good guy to deal with!
  11. First of all, save some time and money, nothing you put on such as Meguires etc. will restore the rubber on your boards. I am quite sure that one of my boards on my 38 is a fibreglass cover, the other may be an original that has hardened to the consistancy of plastic or fibreglass. My solution? This winter I am going to take them off and have them sprayed with "truck box liner" they can apply it in various thicknesses and various finishes. It stays flexible (rubber consistancy) I have seen samples and it looks like an answer...stay tuned
  12. You are correct Tinindian, I have done more research and found, to my satisfaction, that it is a 1913 Keeton. Thanks for your help.....wayne
  13. Someone may have answered this for you by now but here goes.....disconnect the battery (I know, but I had to say it) There is a backing plate behind the ignition switch with a couple of screws into it from the bottom of the dash, these screws are a bit of a pain because they are tamper-proof (likely to make it tough to hot-wire the car). Then put your key in the ignition, you will see a small hole on the ignition face plate, into this hole push a small nail, pin, allen key, whatever fits, turn the key all the way to the right (it will go past the usual two stops) then pull the key towards you and it will pull out the lock cylinder along with the face-plate (bezal/bezel?) and the rest of the switch will drop back into the dash. Remove a couple of wires and it should be in your hand. Good-luck