Tom Martinez
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Posts posted by Tom Martinez
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The only 1931 Lincoln in the photos is the brown fendered Lebaron convertible Roadster sharing space with the that Model L open front car.
Notice the stair case on the fender, three steps into the rumble seat!
Tom Martinez, Ca.
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Oops, meant 2421A5, it says it can bend a 7/16 radius, anyway, it looks like you have a truck load of ideas.
I was contemplating using a copper tube but I'll be chrome plating the end that sticks out at the top of the windshield so I thought copper would be too soft.
Tom In Cal.
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How about this Mcmaster-Carr product? a little pricey but something similar can be found elsewhere I'm sure.
Item # 242185, or just go to their site and search tube benders.
I'm guessing the tube is for vacuum wipers mounted in an open car? I'm about to bend the same size tube for 31 Lincoln convertible coupe.
-Tom, So cal
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I'm preparing 1931 Lincoln LeBaron convertible coupe for upholstery. I'm currently pre-fitting interior trim and sorting out the door hardware.
Here's what I'm curious about: The drivers door has no exterior key lock, only an inside button at the top of the door. The passenger door only has an outside key lock and no inside button.
What is the practical logic to having such an arrangement? This design forces the lone driver to always enter the locked car from the passenger side, then the passenger door would always remain unlocked while in the car, or if you help a passenger into the car first, they can reach over to unlock your side, but the passenger door would still remain unlocked unless you locked the passenger in from the outside! You can not lock or unlock the passenger door from the inside. I wouldn't let my daughter go on a date in that car!
I confirmed this is the original set up, and all the parts indicate this is how the car left the factory. I suppose this is some sort of obsolete logic I don't understand.
Can anyone please enlightenment me?
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Hello, I'm seeking parts for a 1931 Lincon, I'm looking for a right side cylinder head, but will take a pair if need be. I also need tail light lenses, Sparton horns, engine splash pans, cowl light lenses, and the wooden vanities or smoking kits that go in the rear seat area the big sedans and Limo's
Regards, --Tom Martinez, Ca.
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Please be exceedingly careful with a carbide drill as carbide is very brittle, hard and easily snapped off....then you're in a world of hurt because the only way to remove it will be EDM. I would not take the risk.
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The bolt really should be soft enough to be drilled out with a high quality high-speed bit, (unless some of the easy-out is still in the hole) which is difficult to find at most retail establishments, Home Depot/Lowes/Auto Zone, etc. because they usually sell china crap. I too like a reverse spiral drill and the drill out method until you can pick and chip out the pieces of bolt with a dental pick. Don't be afraid to nick the internal thread if it's an area with enough material to Heli-coil or Keensert.<O:p</O:p
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T. Martinez<O:p</O:p
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Do yourself a favor, drive a good 41 Cadillac, you could be surprised, I know I was. I bought a 41 series 62 coupe not long ago, and drove it 1,000 miles back home. I was really impressed with the harmony of design, both asthetic and mechanical. Silky shifting (manual) plenty of power and good highway manners, all at 15-16 MPG on the highway. It scoots around town really good too, totaly impressive.
I used to own a fully sorted 1950 series 62 cadillac convertible and what surprised me was that the 1941 drove every bit as well as that 1950 and was even more fun with the 3 speed manual vs the 4 speed hydramatic in the 1950.
I would also think that the 41 Cadilac will retain it's value a bit more than the 49 Buick as it's the most popular touring car in the CCCA....those old dudes know the good stuff.
-Tom M.
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I just saw your post, I hope these pictures will be of help. I'm nearly ready for re-assembly so these pictures were taken some months ago.
--Tom
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I am in need of a parts manual for a 1931 Lincoln, leads or sources for an original or reproduction will be welcome, but my preference is for a reproduction as it will be used in the shop. Thanks, --Tom
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Try polishing them with laquer thinner, I've used this method on old Volkswagen and Porsche knobs which tend to crack and yellow with age. Test a small area first to guage the possible results. becareful because the thinner will create a melting action, this is what removes any crazing too. I've had good luck mounting the knob on a drill motor and applying the laquer thinner with a soft cloth to acheive the polishing action. I too have never seen truly white knobs on any car, they are usualy a yellowish ivory that become more yellow with age.
Regards and Blue Skies, Tom
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Robert, consider the Chalmers side light sold. I'll send you a private message.
Thanks, --Tom, 1912 Chalmers 36, Model 10
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This question pertains to 1937 senior cars.
I know how to decipher the firewall tag, and of course the engine number, I also understand about the "anti-theft number embossed on the firewall but can someone tell me if there is a number stamped on the frame somewhere that can positively identify a chassis?
It seems I remember there is a number somewhere...front frame rail, right side? The wheel base is a good start but 8's and 12's both had 139" WB models. How could one determine the model of a body-less and engin-less chassis?
Thanks in advance for Knowledgeable replies, --Tom
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Thanks to all for the valuable input, particularly the reference to the Packard Library. Now I'll know what to look for when I inspect the car in a few weeks.
Best Regards, Tom
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Thanks for the reply West. The reference books and the Packard club website show a deluxe model at $50 more than the standard model and the style number has a DE suffix. At 50 bucks it could not have been much...extra chrome? mirrors? heater?
--Tom
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Can someone please tell me what the difference was between the standard 120 and the deluxe 120 models of 1940?
--Tom, Running Springs, Ca.
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Sorry Chuck, I'm determined to punish myself. My shake down cruise was an adventure. I figured out why it had a 12 volt battery instead of a 6 for starting as it would not fire on 6 volts. I know the magneto is in good shape as I was able to push start it on the magneto so I'm looking at the coil and related items as the culprit. I also found some small leaks in the radiator core which is a cellular type so I've pulled that for some R&R. I needed to remove the rocker arms to be bushed and to make new pivot pins, it took me all of 6 minutes for 8 nuts and cotter pins...very easy with no rocker covers or other thing in the way. it seems I'll need to remember to use the small oiling can to prevent this from reccuring too soon.
This car has a compressed air self starter that is disconnected but I do have all the parts so I'm going try to get that going. Gear shifting is quite a challenge.. even double clutching, it seems I missed about 1 in 3 shifts. I'm going to start asking around to find a new reflector for one of my headlights, which has many chips in the glass, they are Solar brand and very similar to what was on Packards that year. The HCCA folks have been very encouraging and helpful so I'm getting good advice on how to fix my small problems.
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I'll get my chance on the 28th of December. It's supposed to be 65 degrees in Pasadena for the "Holiday Motor Excursion", a popular local tour. By the looks of the SoCal HCCA calender, the touring season only slows down somewhat in the winter.
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two more Chalmers pictures, notice the unusual mounting position of the top straps to the fenders in the vintage photo. Some old photo's show this arrangement and some don't.
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more pictures of the 1912 Chalmers
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I just purchased a 1912 Chalmers 36, model 10 touring car. It's an AACA 1992 Senior award winner that's been toured extensively. It's the former Ed Messenger car from Texas. Since I'm a novice with Brass cars, cranking, starting and driving is an altogether challenging and amazing experience. I searched for a Brass-era car for 8 months and I believe I made the right move. It seems to take more dedication to fully enjoy these cars than later collector cars, which is one of the reasons I wanted to get into them.
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Changing over to 12 volt can get expensive and complicated because of all the things that need to be changed such as, generator, voltage regulator, battery, coil, all the bulbs( don't forget the gauge cluster) windshield wiper motor, blower motors, starter motor and solenoid, the list goes on.
The advantages of 12 volt are well known, but I've found that 6 volt systems are just fine but are very sensitive to the main ground connection. It's amazing what an afternoon of cleaning the corrosion from all bulb contacts, fuse box contacts, each fuse, and the ground conection of each and every piece of equipment will do. Use a light sand paper or wire brush or steel wool and you will be amazed at the new brightness of your headlights and tail lights. Don't forget to change out old battery cables because sometimes (frequently) they have substantial corrosion inside.
Hard starting and dim lights are not inherent to a 6 volt systems, rather it is lack of maintainence. Don't get suckered into using an 8 volt battery..it's the worst of both worlds. I also only use the Optima brand 6 volt battery.
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Thanks to everyone for the thoughtfull replies. I can see I better get with it PDQ and find a room. Regardless of how many early cars I see, it looks like I'll have plenty to see and do.....heck, changing my socks so often will take up some time.
-Tom
Bakelite repacement material?
in Technical
Posted
I'm looking for a replacement for the Bakelite type material commonly found on 20's and 30's cars. It's the black, dense, hard type, similar to an old fashioned telephone housing from the same period. I need rods, sheets or blocks to manufacture small items that are nearly impossible to find, a steering wheel horn button is just one example. I also could use some very dark brown for door lock knobs. My car is an uncommon 1931 model.
I have experimented with black UHMW, and some other common black plastics but they are usualy softer than real Bakelite and do not polish or finish quite the same.
Some of the pieces I want to replicate appear to be cast, such as terminal boxes and the like, but I will be machining from solids.
Any leads would be appreciated. Yes I know about McMaster-Carr and Google.
Best Regards, Tom in SoCal.