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steelman

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Posts posted by steelman

  1. Top right on the front page of this forum is a drop down box titled "Search this Forum". Enter 63 disc brakes in there and read the posts that come up. This has been discussed several times, so you should find the info you are looking for. Here is one example. Good luck. Congrats on the new member of the family.

    http://forums.aaca.org/f177/64-riv-disc-brake-conversion-285037.html

  2. Best I have been able to determine, all 100,000+ first generation Rivieras came with power steering and automatic transmission. Which means we can drive these things one handed. Use the other one to hold your coffee (or whatever). Problem solved.

  3. Truth x 2!

    I'll check into it. I probably will run it out of gas and drop the tank, which will make it a bunch easier, let me see more of what's going on down there, and as a bonus, more of a learning experience. Can't beat that.

    -BEPNewt

    A little more work, but while you have the tank out, it would be a good idea to clean it good and maybe run some sealer through it. Better now with it out than a week after you get it all back together again.

  4. If I use the spacers will I need new studs ? The reason I ask is because these wheels use shank style lug nuts, and I don't really want to change the studs, so this would determine what I'll do. Also would I still be able to use the bullet style center caps with the spacers? I do think I will go with the steel wheels unless I would have to machine the centers I am afraid that would chip the chrome.

    Thanks for all the help.

    If the studs have never been changed, the left side studs will be right hand thread. You can find shank style lugs for these, but you really have to look hard. Chrysler products had this same lug bolt, so that helps with the search. A 1/4" spacer should still give you enough thread that you shouldn't have an issue. You are correct about the center bullet cap not fitting tight if you cut the center of the wheels. Composite wheels are fine and will last a long time if you keep them polished and out of the weather as much as possible. As the base metals are different, continued exposure to weather will have an adverse affect on the chrome outers in a short time.

  5. "Looking around I noticed this tie rod with a bend in it, is this suppose to be this way. Looked around online at replacement tie rod pictures, but I think all the sites just show a generic picture of a straight rod."

    I wondered the same thing when I bought mine. My alignment guy wasn't sure, but everything was solid and he saw no point in trying to change or correct them, so mine are still that way. Maybe a real expert will weigh in on this one.

  6. Mitch, with a 5 on 5 bolt pattern, there should be plenty of room to machine the center hole in these and still have plenty of meat between the center hole and the lug holes. About a 1/16" is all that needs to come off all around the center hole. And this is not very expensive. Another option is to use a 1/4" spacer with the proper center hole, then the wheels as manufactured work fine. If the Series I is your first choice, either of these options allow you to use that first choice.

  7. Try Jegs or Summit Racing. Both are online and can handle both the wheel and adapter, and should be able to ship to the UK. The catalogs show a different installation adapter number for the 63 than for the 64. I ordered both when I changed my wheel, just to be sure I was covered. I am told there is no difference in the columns on a 63 and 64, and ended up using the adapter for the 64 on my 63. This is the wheel I went with. Installation kit is shown on the same page. Good luck.

    Grant 1178 Grant Mahogany Collectors Edition Steering Wheels

  8. If I could request, I'd love to pics of your setup steelman. I'm in the process of changing out my exhaust on my '65 with bags.

    I am a little late with these. Between family, the job, and the weather, I haven't had the Riviera out much. Made time today to take it by a friends shop and put it up on his lift for some minor issues and took a few pictures of the exhaust while it was there. Mine pretty much follows the stock configuration using the 80 Series Flowmaster Crossflow muffler with dual inlets and dual outlets. I have included pictures of the rear with the car at ride height as well as lowered to the bump stops. Notice how the pipe must snake around in the wheelwell and still miss the control arms, shocks, and tires. And just so you know, the lowest point on a first generation Riviera is not the frame rails. The lowest point on my car is the inspection cover on the bellhousing on the Dynaflow. can't imagine that the ST400 would be much different. When mine is lowered all the way (parked only) this cover is 1/2" off the ground. I found a piece of 5/8 rod handy that would span between the ramps, and it didn't clear. Hope this helps those that were interested.

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  9. ◊ Warranty: One year on workmanship and materials. 90 days on chrome plating and 30 days on out-of-round.

    ◊ $1,600.00 per set of four wheels with caps, lug nuts and washers. Add $50.00 per set for reverse patterns.

    Shipping is not included.

    You'd think that for $1600 plus shipping, chrome would be guaranteed longer than 90 days. Makes me glad I bought billet.

  10. Are they steel or aluminum wheels? Post a picture and/or a model number for your wheels and maybe we can help more.

    Astro Supremes are a steel rim with an aluminum center, much like a Cragar S/S. They will use the same type shoulder lug nut that fits inside the lug holes in the wheels, not a conventional lug nut you took off the stock wheels.

    You may also need a 1/4" spacer to allow the wheels to clear the center hub.

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  11. As your Riviera most likely still has the original acrylic laquer on it, touch ups will be difficult, as you can't puts today's paint over it without seroius issues. The panel will need to be stripped, even for a small repair. Several questions exist as to the type of paint to be used. Base/clear, enamal, the new waterborn, and others, depending on location and shop of choice. Each of these require multiple coats to achieve the desired results, not just one. Very few shops are equipped to soda blast the old paint off and put the new paint on in the same facility. Transportation to and from a seperate site for this purpose, and the blasting itself, may need to be a seperate package with a different individual/company, if you choose to have the old paint removed this way. Others with a lot more knowledge will chime in, but this will get you started.

  12. Does anyone else think it's kind of weird that it fits a '65 with its down flow radiator but doesn't list it for the '63 or '64; and it says it will fit a '66 with it cross flow radiator, but wont' work on the 67-70 which is the same chassis/body.

    They list a different part number for the 63-64. I thought it was interesting as well that they list 65 and 66 together. 67-70 may be a different part number as well, I have never looked. I just know I was impressed with the one I bought for my 63.

  13. The problem may be the tread width. If the rim is too narrow, you will get an odd wear pattern, with the center of the tread wearing more than the edges. I didn't find a 245/50/17 on my site to see a recommended rim width, but these may be a bit large for a 7" rim.

  14. Lately it has been so cold, you don't need a freezer. Just throw the steak out in the snow and put the Riviera in the garage next to the T-Bird. Supposed to warm up this week, maybe we can see some better pictures. Glad she found a new home. Still stoked?

  15. Rob, it is not so much the diameter of the wheel as much as it is the overall diameter of the tire. I have seen 19s and 20s on the front of first generation Rivieras, but these larger diameter wheels are usually paired with a very low profile tire, so there really is not much difference. Depends on the look you want to achieve. I want with 17s and a taller sidewall because I like that look better on my car. Do a forum search for Dirty Dan's car. He put 19s or 20s on it. May still be on the bottom of the first page.

    Exhaust was also discussed within the last month. Find that thread and see if it will answer your questions.

  16. Jim Gleghorn is an ISCA Official (as am I) and has has built several award winning show cars over the years. "The Wizzard" is another excellent painter in the Tulsa area, but last I heard was building bikes and not very affordable. Johnny Young is another very good painter in that area, but I am not sure where to find him these days, as we have lost touch. Nice to see taht you came up with Jim's name on your own. Can't wait to see your pictures. Psyched is probably not a strong enough word right now for you.

  17. As my painter is from Tulsa, that just might be possible. I have known Jim Gleghorn at Jim's Body Shop on Admiral for about 20 years. I have talked to him several times about painting the car. I just have to pick a color and find the time to take it up to him.

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  18. Brian, I have about 500 first generation Riviera pics in my collection, only one even comes close to stripes. I found several two tones, one even close to Hugger Orange and white. Couldn't resist adding the Camaro Pace Car, too. Notice how wide the stripes need to be to line up with the intake grilles in the cowl. Much wider than Pace Car stripes.

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  19. You should have no issues with a 7" wheel and a 3" drop. At full up, mine has about a 3" drop and I still have a minor rub at full lock in a parking lot. No issues at all on the road. Overall tire diameter will make a difference here, too. I need to do a little more on the front of mine when it warms up a little. 10" of snow so far today, and record lows a predicted. Minnesota can keep this weather, I don't want it anymore.

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