steelman
-
Posts
985 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by steelman
-
-
Careful, Rob, you will will have guys lining up for blocks to get theirs adjusted. Nice job, and congratulations to you both.
-
Looked at this one last night when I got back to town. Phone number he posted on Wednesday was wrong, so it took me a while to track him down. It is a 64. No title. Tapped in the right front, left rear, right rear, and left door. Couldn't see any obvious rust, but didn't look at the floors. Rockers, quarters, and lower fenders look good from a rust perspective. Left door skin and right quarter in front of the wheel are hit and creased pretty hard. Door skin won't save. Quarter might, but will take a lot of work. Standard interior. Car is in Tuttle, OK, about 45 minutes SW of downtown OKC. Still some good parts for the price, but absolutely a parts car.
PS. Last 4 of the phone should be 3274.
-
That's a fate worse than the crusher.:eek:
Not exactly worse than the crusher, to me. While I may not agree with what he did, or that it is even art, it will never be sent back as a Toyota.:eek:
-
That's what I'm looking for . Any pics , Steelman ??
very excited !
Unfortunately, this is one of many colors that doesn't photograph well. You really need to see it live and in person in the sun. Go to the paint supply house and see if you can find it in the chip book. Go on a sunny day and take the book outside to look at it in the natural light. Good rule for choosing any color. If the book has a big enough chip, you can see what the metallic will do in the sun. Check two or three different paint brands if you can, as colors will vary slightly by manufacturer. Another good rule I have learned the hard way.
-
Cadillac made a color in the middle 80s called Black Emerald. Looked black, but the metallic was green and made a very pretty color in the sunlight. Go great with your green interior.
-
http://forums.aaca.org/f177/1964-riviera-new-exhaust-muffler-pictures-292276.html
Try this entry too. Deals more with aftermarket exhaust. You can do a search of the board and come up with others as well.
-
Steve,
Did you change any of the brake hoses?
Yes, when I upgraded to later model MC and booster, I changed all the hoses. I had checked wheel cylinders and such earlier, but did replace hoses at this time.
-
Mine did the same thing. Cracking the line at the master cylinder released the car enough to move it back to the garage for me. That is when I gave up on the stock master cylinder and booster and upgraded. No issues since, and didn't have the issue with the shoes. Mine were correct and still did this.
-
In one of the pictures was the owners manual. On the very last page is engine ID information. You have established that this is the original engine. Look there for the JT or JW letters Ed mentioned above. Could be hand written or typed in, depending on the dealer.
-
Which stylized Riviera symbol are you referring to, Steve? The script with the big R? Or the R inside the oval with aline through it?
The big R inside the oval with a line through it. Didn't think this symbol appeared on anything until 1964?
-
In looking through my original paperwork to research another thread, I came across the original complete Personalized Identification Plate application. I always wondered why my car didn't have any evidence of ever having one of these, now I know why. It was never sent back in. I have attached the scans here.
What I found most interesting about this was the use of the stylized Riviera symbol. As mentioned in several threads, this emblem doesn't appear anywhere on the 1963 Riviera. Even the original owners manual doesn't have this symbol on it anywhere. This car was sold on Feb. 20, 1963, so still about six months prior to the premier of the 1964 which uses this symbol everywhere.
-
I just pulled out my owners manual, and hand written on the last page is the selling dealer information. Like Ed, I found a few discrepancies in the list linked above. My dealer was Chuck Naiman Buick Pontiac in Borger, Texas. List says Zone 20, Code 401 and 1965. My book says Zone 28 (there is no Zone 28 on the list) and Code 402, hand written on Feb. 20, 1963. Not sure exactly how accurate this list is for the early years.
Also found the application for the Personalized Identification Plate complete in my paperwork. I may scan this in later this weekend, as I haven't seen one posted here before. Any interest?
-
Post this question on the Riviera forum and you will get great answers. Several 67 guys on that page to enlighten you. Do a search on the Riviera page for Wheat Belt in Carrier, OK. He should have most, if not all the parts. Figure on changing the column while you are at it.
-
My car was from West Texas, and I have a lot of dealer info that came with my car when I bought it.
Steve,
How far west in TX? My original one came from Nance Buick-Opel in El Paso. Clueless about my current one
Dale
Original owner of my car was a lady doctor from Stinnett, Texas, which is in the panhandle, North of Amarillo. This car came with about an inch thick pile of papers in addition to an original owners manual and a chassis manual. I will look this weekend to see exactly who the dealer was, as I don't remember the name at this point.
-
Rivs should be immediately identifiable, and share nothing with other models.
Dale
Amen, Brother! That's why I like the the 50s and 60s cars. A Buick was a Buick, a Ford was a Ford and a Plymouth was still UGLY.
-
I go back to Ed's note on location, location, location. Where are you from? Any idea where the car is from? I can tell you that Gandara Buick was in business in Oklahoma City in 1963, but don't know if that does you any good or not. My car was from West Texas, and I have a lot of dealer info that came with my car when I bought it.
-
Here's a link to a replacement A6 compressor that might be of interest to you/anyone/everyone.
S6 Automotive Replacement Airconditioning Compressor Automotive Applications
Maybe someone has these in stock now. I tried to buy one of these when I redid my system a while back, but couldn't actually lay my hands on one. Lots of info released to test the market before these actually went into production. If anyone decides to go this way, make sure you can actually get one first, then report back, please.
-
I went with Newstalgia and ordered a set of American Racing AR-500 wheels in 17X8. They are listed in 5X4.5 and 5X4.75 sizes, but they called A.R. and were able to make them in a 5X5. I was excited to keep it an (original) look but with a little more mass to the wheels and tires.
Glad you found something you like for your car. Of course, we want to see pictures when you get these on. I have attached a view of the AR-500 wheel you chose here.
-
Really easy to do. I did mine while I was reworking the entire system, but not a PITA at all. Can't really mess this up. Remove six screws, remove spring, add block off plate, replace screws. Not quite that easy, but close.
-
...And you thought your first gen Riviera with a nailhead used a lot of gas!
-
I don't know what's going on, but nobody seems to be able to get these units any longer. The parts show up on Autozone, and Advance auto's website, but when I call the store to order, or try to order on-line, they all say they can't get the parts. Called Cardone, but it is impossible to get a live human being on the line. Left a message with Customer service.
Same issue I had when I wanted one for my 63. Two places on line took my credit card number, only to come back and say they had none and no prospects of getting any more. I was in Vegas at the time and found a good parts gal (yes, and she was good) at Advance that found a new one in one of their warehouses. A local parts guy can be a good friend to have when restoring an old car.
-
The Marti Report can get you to a 1 of whatever on FoMoCo cars, and the Govier Report can do something similar for the Mopar crowd, but I didn't think GM kept enough records to certify any car as a 1 of whatever. Or if they did, they aren't a matter of public record. I have to agree with Jason, unless it was an exectutive car, who knows and how do you prove it?
-
In case details will help... it has a tiny chip near the bottom in the middle and the crack goes down the the bottom from there and about 2 inches upwards. It's too dark to get a pic right now.
-BEPNewt
A good glass repair shop can stop the crack from continuing. They actually drill a tiny hole at the end of the crack, then fill it with their repair resin. This stops the crack from going further. Actaully works this way in heavy steel, too. Cracks spread due to drastic temperature changes. The car shut up in the garage for a few days shouldn't change the temperature enough to make the crack spread any further.
-
Brian, just a fairly cheap item to consider while you do this is a new radiator cap. These do fail over time. If you don't know for sure how old yours is, consider replacing it now, rather than after it has made a mess.
Restoring a classic license plate
in Buick Riviera
Posted