steelman
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Posts posted by steelman
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Reds and blues have always been hard for printers reproduce in magazines and broshures correctly. Modern computer technology has made this better, but still not always true to the actual color we see with our eyes.
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Had the same issue with my brake lights when I first bought my car. Work fine for a while, the quit. Came back for a while, then quit on the other side. What cured mine once and for all was not the sockets. There is a plug under the carpet on the driver's side. Seems to connect the front and rear halves of the wiring. Found this when I had the seats and console out working on the heater core. May be able to see it by just removing the door sill plate and peeling back the carpet. If not, may have to remove the driver's seat to find it. Clean and secure this connection and your brake/taillight issues go away. At least mine did. Maybe it will work for you, too.
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The biggest help though was when I put a set of four NEW matched tires on it.
That is also sound advise. Tires that have sat in one position over a length of time will develop flat spots. You can hear and feel these going down the road, even if the tires look good and have the right air pressure.
My 63 was parked for 17 years, and had new tires (bias ply white wall) installed just before it was parked. Tires looked good, but I could hear and feel the thump, thump as I drove it after getting it running again. New tires cured this issue right up.
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How about some 5 on 5 Road wheels made in a variaty of widths and backspacing , Don't care if they are only 15 inchers allthough some 18/ 20 inchers for the trends as they are today would be great too! Or for that matter just some repo in the 15 x 6 configuration ....restoring those old steel wheels is BIG $
WheelVintiques is making a Buick Rallye wheels in 15, 16, 17 and 18 inch diameters. Just started producing these, and can't tell a lot from the online catalog. These are not road wheels, but if the demand was there, this might happen. The demand may be there for stock type road wheels, then expand from there. At least they speak Buick. Riviera is just a different dialect. Page 29 of the online catalog. Products | Wheel Vintiques
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OK, I am too opinionated to not weigh in on this, too. I would have to go with a hybrid. 63/64 with a 65 front clip. I like the 63/64 tail lights and I like the horseshoe mouldings on the rear quarters. I always thought the headlights in the 63/64 looked like just what they were, an afterthought. Stuck too far out of the grille and interupted the overall flow of the entire car. Don't like the Ferrari grill in a Ferrari, much less in a Riviera. Again, it just didn't match the flow of the design. I have to agree with Jason on the 401K analagy, but my Riviera preference goes in year order. 63, 64, 65, 66, and then 67. I have to agree with Ed about the 68s and 69s, but I would add a nice 71 to the collection.
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Just received a Classic 2 Current front drivers side pan. Seems to be decent, and heavier gauge than the original. Only thing is, it doesn't have the hole in it for the metal floor plug. Don't think that really matters though.
Unless you plan to redip the body for corrosion protection like the factory did, the plug isn't an issue. Mostly these plugs served as drains when the bodies were dipped before paint. If you are looking to do an nth degree restoration, may have to cut the drain/plug structure out and weld into the new floor pan.
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After posting the above picture, I see that this is from the inside of the frame, and the trimming was on the outside of the spring pocket. I have been looking and don't have a picture of the outside if the frame where the trimming was done with the front wheel removed. Sorry if this confused anyone.
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I thought I had a picture, but couldn't find it earlier. Here is the trimmed pocket with the uninflated bag on my car.
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Define significant amount. Yes, you have to trim the pocket. Yes, it is required. When the bag is down all the way, the bulged bag sticks outside the frame. Needs to be trimmed so that the bag doesn't hit the frame. But it was more of a trim. Tapered cut from 0 at the edge to about 1" or less at the middle back to 0 at the trailing edge. Still plenty of spring pocket if you ever change your mind. Can be done with a torch, plasma, or grinder. Not sure you can tell it was done after you finish unless you had an unmodified one right next to it.
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Brian, these sandwich between the grilles and the housings. Pretty snug fit and won't move when placed on the housings. Screw holes are more for alignment than holding in place. I wouldn't let the minor defects at the screw holes deter me if these were better than mine.
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Remember that the base factory coat is acrylic laquer. If you try to put a modern paint over top of it, it will bubble and krinkle and you will have a big mess and a lot of wasted money. Need to take it to bare metal if you are going to paint the whole car. Small touch ups are OK, but if you have the DA out, it is getting serious. I have had good luck with the 3M stripper wheels and a small right angle air grinder. If you keep the RPMs between 6-8000 they do a good job getting to bare metal without gumming up, but it is slow with a 3" disc. Do a small area at a time. Not good if you are in a hurry, as progress is slow.
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My pot metal bezels are good...I was asking about the lens. Anybody found a source for decent red plastic? PRL
Unless they are really cracked and broken, they can clean up well. You can do a lot with Simple Green and a tooth brush. Mine were dirty and caked with junk, but cleaned up nicely when I took them apart and scrubbed them up.
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I had a key cut using the lock cylinder from the door; I had the skin off anyway so it wasn't a big deal. If there's a code on the glove box lock that would be much less of a hassle. Find the oldest lock company in your area and take it to them.
I have had several cars that I have had to do this way. Most were Chevrolets and the lock cylinder comes out pretty easy. A good locksmith can make a key to match the cylinder you have.
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Hum sounds like someone changed up the suspension....
Are the control arm bushings rubber or noeprene? As the wheels and shocks were changed, bushings might have been, too. Seems like if these were the tell tale red, you would have noticed, but neoprene bushings can be had in black as well. Neoprene bushings will change the ride. Might be something to investigate further.
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Ansen is still in business. Valve covers are their specialty. Don't know if they made Nailhead covers back then, but they don't list any now.
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"raw steel look" - i thought the same. then someone way more practical than me here at work commented on how annoying it would be to look at a car like that when it's in the sun!
At the Goodguys show in Scottsdale last weekend there was a 36 Ford painted all over with the chrome paint we have seen used on "Street Customs". Non-participant entrance was through one of the big tents with manufacturer's displays. This car was positioned so it was the first car you saw coming into the exhibitor area out of that tent. Very, very bright in the Arizona sun. Wouldn't want to drive this down the highway on a sunny day.
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HEY !
I like my "White" Riviera !
LOL
I like em all. No offense meant. They look good in white, that is why it was the most popular color every year.
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Now I'm thinking I may change the exterior color as well.
Can we do another poll? These are fun. Then you would be really confused.
Champagne Mist with the fawn interior would be my first choice. Changing the exterior color really opens up all the options. As was said earlier, there are too many white Rivieras.
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Hi Steve,
What is the body build date of your car? Thanks,
Tom
12B. Second week of December 62, so before Christmas break.
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Some `63`s are body color from the factory.
Tom Mooney
As my 63 has been painted at least once, with a color change from light blue to dark blue, this one had me puzzled. My firewall is body color. Never thought any more about it. Then I read this and think, why is my firewall body color? If it was satin black, there would have been no need to change it to a different color when the car was resprayed. Car needs paint again and a satin black firewall would have certainly made my life easier. My painter's, too.
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My dad is a retired refrigeration mechanic and had some R12 in his shop. When I walked into my mechanic's shop with a 30# drum, he asked me "What did you do, rob a bank?":D
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Wow. That's just plain fugly. :eek:
It is said that nothing is completely worthless, it can always serve as a bad example. That said I wanted to post the pictures for future searchers to see after the ebay link expires. Fugly.
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Were skirts available in `64? Also,if so does anyone have pictures of them installed?
Not sure about 64, but a 65 with skirts is on ebay now. My computer wouldn't let me post the pic, so here is the link;
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The reason I asked the question one post above is I'm not sure if taking the STV off "opens the system" or something and will let moisture or contaminants in, etc. I'll check the PDF manuals I have to see what they say, but I trust the wisdom and experience of you guys for the tidbits I won't find in a manual.
-BEPNewt
Brian, yes, this will "open the system". A short time being open will not be an issue, as you will have to vacuum pump the system before it is recharged. But if it will be a couple days or more, need to close it back up. Don't just stuff an old rag in there, the lint will create a bigger problem than the moisture. Closing it with tape should keep you fine for a week or so until you get the new parts. Don't do this for the long term. Tape will dry out and cause more issues than the rag. If it will be more than a week, use a lint free rag to close.
64 Riviera 'parts' car w/ extras
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Split the hood and deck lid, cut the top off and suicide the doors. Those I have seen before. But what's with the flying Lambo quarters?:confused: Agree with PRL, welder needed.