steelman
-
Posts
980 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by steelman
-
-
Reclocking an alternator is not hard. Remove the four screws from the back. DO NOT separate the two halves. Hold them together and gently rotate the back 180 degrees. Reinstall the screws. Now you alternator is clocked correctly. If you separate the two halves, you will have to reinstall the brushes, as they are spring loaded against the armature and will pop out when you pull the back off. If that happens, there are two brushes to reload. There is an alignment hole through the rear case so you can put a paperclip through the outside of the case holding the brushes and springs behind it. Reassemble and pull out the paperclip to release the brushes back against the armature. This can be done on the car, but removing it is easier, especially if you are going to inspect it.
If you exchange this alternator for a new one, be sure to reclock it before you install it.-
3
-
-
40 plus years ago when I bought my 55 Chevy hardtop, the gauge always read full. I had filled it up down the street from where I bought it, so knew I had a few days. Hot 350 so I expected 7 mpg, but really didn’t care. Ran several days on full. Then, it started bobbing between F and E, back and forth, back and forth. If it stopped bobbing, you had better be within sight of a gas station, because you were out out and coasting.
-
1
-
-
18 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
I ordered some of those scratch pens I posted a link to. They arrived today, look fine.
I wore out the ones I had back around the turn of the century and had not been able to find any. When I wrote the post I accidentally ran across the new name.
Talk about the "dumbing" down of America. Originally called a brunishing brush the tool got renamed to make it easier to understand and spell I guess.
Bernie, why is the Amazon link to these in Spanish? I thought you were from New York?
-
Note the slicks on the front as well. This is an all wheel drive (AWD) 67 Riviera wagon. Tommy was way ahead of his time.
-
1
-
-
I believe the hammer price was $83,000. The $91,300 was all in including the 10% commission.
-
Bernie, I have. Also, the C4 85-96 Corvette batwing would be another candidate. Change the mono leaf to coil overs and this is where I would go. I am not there yet, may never be with this car, but I have thought about it. A lot.
-
1
-
-
One of the reasons I parked my 55 Chevy hardtop years ago was because some genius had retired it. In light blue. Every wire, the entire car, was redone with all light blue wiring. I need to put a new harness in it, but I tell myself if I am going that far, the entire car gets blown apart for a redo. Just haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Yes, I still have the car. No, it is not for sale.
-
At this point, best to check the heater core. Most likely reason for the rust in the floor. Seats and console have to be out to do it from inside, so you have a good head start. Another one of these might as well while I’m here deals…
-
1
-
-
Read close. These are hot rod parts. The only thing these have in common with our drums are the look. These are intended to fit 40 Ford juice brakes on say a Model A. These fit Ford brake shoes in a Ford width. Also notice the Ford 5x5 1/2 bolt pattern. Not trying to rain on your parade, just trying to save you money, time, and aggravation.
These are really nice if you a building a nice period correct 32 highboy. Otherwise, not really for you.
-
1
-
-
Note that Sixxer has changed to disc brakes front and rear. So no hub diameter issues or fin clearance issues to worry about. Just backspacing and caliper clearance.
-
Before you decide on another engine, you have to decide if you are keeping the Dynaflow. Cranks in 64-66 are different in the rear. These can be made to work, but not a straight forward swap as you would think. Do some research, later nails can be made to work, but you need to know the pitfalls of each. Basically need a 63 crank to work with the Dynaflow without spacers and buttons.
-
2
-
-
John, when my booster went out, I had no pedal travel. Well, maybe an inch or so. Pedal was almost against the floor, would not return, and rock hard. Took great effort to move that last inch. That seems to be consistent with what others have said as well.
-
1
-
-
Just be easy with these. They can do more harm than good if not used correctly. If the fins are completely laid over, you need to use a small tool to get these sort of standing up straight, then use the fin comb to finish. You can rip the fin if you try to force the comb through.
And I agree with Bernie and often wonder the same thing. My dad thought me to use these when I was a kid.-
1
-
2
-
-
3/4” is plenty of edge distance for a 3/8” hole. Rule is 1.5 x D, measured from the centerline of the hole. So, 3/4” in this case is 2 x D. Plus there is no force in that direction in this condition. If you have access, redrill the holes.
-
2
-
-
TaxMan, you can get these wheels in a polished finish as well. Look around. These are from American Racing. Search kidney bean wheels.
-
I saw this on FaceBook and enjoyed it. Took a couple of minutes to recognize the car, then, hey…
Nice piece, well done. Congrats.
-
If you look to the far right on the top picture, inside the cover you see a “Winter’s Foundry Snowflake”. Winters did most of the aluminum casting for GM in the 60s and into the early 70s. That means these are original pieces.
-
1
-
-
I am not an expert on these, but they are original. ‘66 only, as Tom M says because of the dimple to clear the air pump. I have a pair just like this. They will not fit under the AC bracket without modifying the bracket. But yes, these will fit your 401.
-
1
-
-
Ford, four bolt wheels, looks like an early six cylinder Mustang to me.
-
Your local Ace Hardware usually has a good selection. Nothing too fancy, but not a bad selection. Also try McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber-grommets
-
Not sure you will find 1/4x18. But 1/4x20 would be the correct stud thread.
-
20 hours ago, first64riv said:
According to this link
and psychostang's comment, this master cylinder will work. Hope this helps.
Chris
Please don’t let this picture fool you. This picture is not the master Chris has for sale. Picture is of a later model Corvette master and booster on my 63.
-
1
-
-
I would have moved or at least cleaned the drain pan.
-
1
-
-
While not quite as thick, this is from a 31 Ford Model A we rebuilt last year. It was pretty thick. Car was parked in a barn in 1974.
63 Door Hinge bushing Replacement?
in Buick Riviera
Posted
One concern about doing hinge bushings on the car. As Ed says, you can drive out the old pin. You can also drive out the old bushings. But, when you buy a bushing kit with new bushings and pins, one of the instructions is to drill all the old holes slightly oversized because the new bushing has a slightly larger OD then the old ones so when you drive them in, they have fresh “meat” of the hinge to bite into so the bushing does not move. So, you need room to drill the old hinges (straight) as well as drive in the new bushings and pins. This access is needed both from the top and bottom of the hinge. While I have never done Riviera hinge pins, I have done several other GM cars and trucks. All were basically the same.
If you can fully support the door, mark the hinge location and remove one at a time. Take it over to the bench, rework it, the reinstall. Then do another one. The nuts in the cowl and door are captivated, so you do need access inside either. Not what you wanted to hear, but what my experience tells me.