steelman

Frank, if you want to make the change, you can add an adjustable proportion ing valve. It has a dial that will adjust bias from front to rear. Several available, even on Amazon, so shipping to Germany may be easier than through a retailer like Summit. https://www.amazon.com/Proportioning-Universal-Proportional-Adjustable-150PSI‑1200PSI/dp/B08Q7PMNSB/ref=asc_df_B08Q7PMNSB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=539594636305&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2475511726919005818&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026274&hvtargid=pla-1428114610226&psc=1

I like and wanted a tall tire. I like the slightly larger wheels, but didn’t want “rubber bands”. My fronts are 235/55/17 on 17x7 wheels with 3 5/8 back spacing. Rears are 255/55/17 on 17x8 wheels with the same 3 5/8 backspacing. Fronts will rub slightly in a hard, full lock turn. I try to avoid those situations. In all my pictures, I have none of this car at ride height. All are dropped with the bags fully deflated. Maybe this will give you an idea on wheel size.

Beautiful car. I will start with a question. How attached are you to the wheels? I have been there, done that on my 63. Dual MC in good working order made a HUGE difference in stopping my car. Disc brakes were on my list, but moved we down on it after. Find used aluminum drums and either add a spacer behind the wheel or if you plan to change them anyway, check backspacing and diameter before you buy new ones. I went with 17s, so I did not have this issue. Your car, your decisions, but the dual MC should be at the top of any lists made, especially if yours is leaking.

Ray, I must not have explained well enough. All you need is the base of the 14” air cleaner. Use it along with your original base to make a new base. The new base with the proper sized hole in the middle surrounded by the original base, which would support the 64 air filter and top.

Ray, I assume you want to reuse the 64 air cleaner and the large 16” air filter these came with. Here is what I would do, or will do if I decide to put a Sniper or other type fuel injection on my 63. Find a 14” air cleaner base. I have 2 or 3, but not one handy for an illustration. Swap meet, eBay, or order one off the internet. We just received the 50 Cad repop that fits the Sniper on the Graham just right. Center this new base on the old one and mark it with about a 1” overlap. Trim both as needed and rivet these together at 2-3 inch centers all around. This will be just inside the base of the stock 64 filter will not interrupt the air flow. You could add some adhesive between these, but shouldn’t need it if you trim carefully. Now your old base fits your new throttle body. No welding needed.

Gardner-Westcott was always the go-to for us. I looked this morning, and all they carry is Buick V6 stuff in any kits. If you knew exactly what you needed, you can buy these individually, but nothing from them in kit form. On line catalog is in pdf. The little Buick they have is on page 20. So, not as much help as I thought I could be here. https://www.gardner-westcott.com/

Shocks! I did not see those in the picture. Pick a good shock to go with your rebuild kit. If you plan to drive it more with new tires, before winter, change the shocks first.

These are Chevy car rally wheels, not truck. Think Corvette, Camaro, Chevelle, from 67 into the late 70’s. These are custom made, but be sure you get the 5x5 bolt pattern, as these were never made in that pattern from GM. Might work in Europe where these are not that common, but over here everybody would ask, why did you put Chevy wheels on your Buick? I agree with EmTee, the Torque Thrusts are hard to beat. Polished, black centers, or gray centers all work well on our cars. But, your car…

Saw that one on FB. Same guy posted this one as well.

You have a bad booster. Most likely the check valve has failed. Needs to be rebuilt to be sure. Look up “Booster Dewey” and talk to him.

Picture shows everything, and for the price, that should be included. If you read the description below, it says you get a list of part numbers to go buy rotors and pads. Looks like somebody knew more about building a website than the part that were put on it.

It was my understanding the the original water pumps used brass bushings, not bearings on the shaft? That was most of the reason I went with this one when mine failed. New and uses bearings, not bushings. http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1538B

They have either had this car for a while, or it was traded back to them. I have a picture of this car in the same showroom that I have had for a few years. Need to look at it and check the date. Looks like I was wrong? Found one in my file in this showroom, but it was black. Found another the right color, but it had a vinyl top. 4400 pics in this file I call a rolling car show that serves as my screensaver, desktop background, so I might have missed it.

There is an access panel in the right inner fender. If you jack the car up, you may not have to pull the tire to get to it. Antenna will drop straight down out of that hole. But you will have to pull the glove box and maybe the console to access the connection on back of the radio.

If your exhaust is like factory, there is no crossover pipe and no reason to loosen the other side at all. These are two independent systems, one each side, until you get to the muffler behind the rear axle. It should drop enough to remove the valve. If you reinstall the header pipe without the fitting, check clearance to be sure you can raise the header pipe without to binding on something else. Also, check the manifold studs for thread length and chase the threads before reinstalling. You may need a spacer between the manifold and nuts to tighten these if you remove it completely.

After 50 plus years, you would think somebody would tell him it is a 65?

Looks to me like the General Lee put on some weight in the hips (hippy?) and was spray bombed. I miss George Barris.

Chris, that is correct. These were (are) the guys and gals that develop all the Disney rides and attractions.

You stated the car is drivable, but have you driven it? Reason I ask is you are bigger than I am, but just slightly. These cars are surprisingly small inside. These are definitely not Electras. First look into mounting the seat further back. Even when all the way back, you will not have enough leg room with the stock mounting location. Plan on about 3” back. Second, plan on changing the steering wheel. A smaller wheel will give more clearance for your legs, both egress and normal driving. Don’t think you are going for a 100 point restoration to original, so I don’t think either of these will be an issue. A car that is uncomfortable to drive will not be driven, no matter how pretty you make it. Both of these helped my car tremendously.

Took this picture a couple years ago when I was having some work done on the house and needed the garage to store furniture. Took it my buddies shop where another friend had his 66 TBird there trying to find the issue with the headlights. When he left, three other guys that were there all agreed that the Riviera, even being three years older, was a better car than the TBird ever was.

Agree with Ed. The cushions and upholstery are different, but the seat frames are the same.

One concern about doing hinge bushings on the car. As Ed says, you can drive out the old pin. You can also drive out the old bushings. But, when you buy a bushing kit with new bushings and pins, one of the instructions is to drill all the old holes slightly oversized because the new bushing has a slightly larger OD then the old ones so when you drive them in, they have fresh “meat” of the hinge to bite into so the bushing does not move. So, you need room to drill the old hinges (straight) as well as drive in the new bushings and pins. This access is needed both from the top and bottom of the hinge. While I have never done Riviera hinge pins, I have done several other GM cars and trucks. All were basically the same. If you can fully support the door, mark the hinge location and remove one at a time. Take it over to the bench, rework it, the reinstall. Then do another one. The nuts in the cowl and door are captivated, so you do need access inside either. Not what you wanted to hear, but what my experience tells me.

Reclocking an alternator is not hard. Remove the four screws from the back. DO NOT separate the two halves. Hold them together and gently rotate the back 180 degrees. Reinstall the screws. Now you alternator is clocked correctly. If you separate the two halves, you will have to reinstall the brushes, as they are spring loaded against the armature and will pop out when you pull the back off. If that happens, there are two brushes to reload. There is an alignment hole through the rear case so you can put a paperclip through the outside of the case holding the brushes and springs behind it. Reassemble and pull out the paperclip to release the brushes back against the armature. This can be done on the car, but removing it is easier, especially if you are going to inspect it. If you exchange this alternator for a new one, be sure to reclock it before you install it.

40 plus years ago when I bought my 55 Chevy hardtop, the gauge always read full. I had filled it up down the street from where I bought it, so knew I had a few days. Hot 350 so I expected 7 mpg, but really didn’t care. Ran several days on full. Then, it started bobbing between F and E, back and forth, back and forth. If it stopped bobbing, you had better be within sight of a gas station, because you were out out and coasting.

Bernie, why is the Amazon link to these in Spanish? I thought you were from New York?