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steelman

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Posts posted by steelman

  1. Randy, this is not really a cut and dried situation. Several factors are involved in making the determination you want. You need to determine what size tire to run, front and rear, because the section width of the tires will be the determining factor. Add to that suspension. Yours stock? Stock 60 years ago, or springs replaced? If your GS had the handling package option, those springs are different as well. Backspacing is also important. Custom wheels mean you can specify a backspacing wanted. Need to keep both of these near stock at 3 5/8”. At least you won’t have to deal with the larger 63-64 hub centers or left hand thread lug nuts I did. Speaking of, lug nuts are 1/2 -20, nut 7/16. Also, front hubs are riveted to the drums. These rivets are between the studs and may or may not fit into a depression in the mounting surface of the wheel. May have to remove the rivets or clearance the wheel mounting surface.

    You have chosen a good looking wheel, but not sure anyone here will have the answers you seek without more info. Maybe not then.

  2. John, pattern is the same for the heat riser and the rams horn. You will be good. McMaster Carr has brass nuts, but may have minimum order and shipping issues to you. Worth a check.

     

    www.mcmaster.com

     

    • Thanks 1
  3. Cast valve covers are taller and more square at the top. Sheet metal covers are shorter and rounder at the top. Regular bracket can be modified to work. Have to remove material on the inside of the bracket on three sides. Close to a quarter inch at the top of the arch of the bracket. Work slow and check often for clearance.

  4. On 11/13/2023 at 4:05 PM, RivNut said:

    Chevy truck rally’s, 15” x 7” (or 8” if you desire) with the 5 on 5” bolt circle. You’d just need to figure out how to make an appropriate cap.

     

    IMG_1481.jpeg.50a32f73eb705fe8c64847ec4790718f.jpeg

    Hate to argue, but these are Chevy car rallies. Chevy truck rally’s have a different center. 15x8 for trucks, 15x7 for vans, but I have seen these in the aftermarket up to 24s.

    IMG_0849.jpeg

    IMG_0848.jpeg

  5. Only a couple of small errors. At 2:10 is an oddball engine. 63 vacuum tank, black air cleaner (64) dual master cylinder, aluminum valve covers and a ribbed valley cover that was never on a production nailhead that I know of. Later battery as well.

     

    At 2:40, a 425 cubic engine is noted as optional. What is overlooked is that this was a late year add and available to only a small percertage of Riviera buyers.

     

    And at 3:09 is a picture of a 63 with a 65 grille and hidden headlights in the fenders. It also has a stand up hood ornament, making it a 64, not a 63. But overall an interesting video.

     

    210.jpg

    309.jpg

    • Haha 1
  6. Not sure if Bill is sending you a PM for a new bolt or a new housing, but it would be easier to just get a new complete housing with all 4 studs than trying to replace just one stud, based on your questions of how to do it. Bill can supply that as well.

    • Like 1
  7. Description says Park Ave. Not sure these would be any better than the stock mirrors, based on where they are placed. Everybody that has done a right hand mirror in this location say it is useless. My 63 has the mirror in the early position, about even with the rear wing post. With my seat being moved back 3”, I think I could see out of a right side mirror in this location. When I add one, it will be located even with the rear wing post so as to not be obstructed. Look at early 90s Mustangs for a painted mirror that has a higher base to get these up at a better height. Also need to be sure these still allow operation of the wing windows, in either location.

  8. I have several first gen Riviera pictures in my collection. Some two toned very well. others, not so much. Maybe these help, maybe they don't. In the end, Bernie has to be happy with what Bernie chooses. Nobody else. But I really like the tri-tone, black, silver, black here. Would work well if you go back with the vinyl top as well.image.jpeg.7116fc5e5c7e270edb2b6b1db4cc23dd.jpegimage.jpeg.e74d4bcce502494f345bf715b598879f.jpegimage.jpeg.9584423b32cdbc0d9d32b9684df100c0.jpegimage.jpeg.e4718c86611ac0acb1270b2c8161204f.jpegimage.jpeg.262c75883347074b7eddda2fa545b527.jpeg

  9. I agree with EmTee, the column is early 70’s, as is the bench seat. Look at the seat back height. Notice it is above the bottom of the window level. Almost like an integrated headrest. Again, wasn’t produced until the early 70’s. 
    I also have to agree with some others. Buy a better example unless you are really in love with the changes made to this one.

  10. Anything can be a problem if you are not careful. You need an internal spring compressor. Ones shown are external. You can borrow or rent these from O’Reilly’s or AutoZone or similar parts house. Remove the shock and insert the compressor up through the lower arm where the shock was. 
    make sure when you jack up the frame you have room for the lower arm to be completely vertical when the spring is removed. You will still have some pressure on the arm, so lower it easy and remove or readjust the spring. You might get it compressed enough to move it into the notch correctly without completely removing it. A light is your friend to be sure you have it seated properly on each end, then remove the compressor.

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