lvrpool32

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Everything posted by lvrpool32

  1. Im in Norwalk, Ct. Looking for $21,000 OBO. BODY - Complete 65 front end (fenders, headlights, turn signals, custom lower bumper with driving lights and billet grill) 1956 Buick portholes in the fenders, shaved the door handles/locks (doors are now controlled from a remote fob with a hidden emergency door button in the car), Hagen’s Hot Rods rear teardrop tail lights, exterior trim smoothed, custom hood scoop, front and rear spoilers and flared out the rockers for the side exhaust with custom exhaust tips. Body is SEM’s color horizons Hot Rod Satin Silver. (7 quarts at $100 a quart!!) All trim/bumpers/grill/headlight doors are satin black. The trim is in excellent shape, as are the bumpers, painting was a "style" choice, not due to physical defect. Underneath was wirebrushed and undercoated. ENGINE/TRANS - Engine is the mighty 425 “nailhead” with a turbo 400 trans. Engine and trans are original with 70,000 miles. The engine is basically stock other than a new ELCO 2 x 4 barrel intake and a pair of rebuilt Edelbrock carbs. It has ELCO valve covers, chrome breathers and a billet thermostat housing. Engine has been well maintained and recently had new plug wires, plugs, upgraded coil and the oil/filter changed. Exhaust is a custom side exit type using Allens chambered mufflers (think 67 big block Corvette!!) The car has power brakes and power steering. INTERIOR - Front and rear seats are red leather from a 2006 GTO, the fronts are power operated (forward, backward, up ,down, recline and special access for rear seats). The door panels, rear quarter panels, sail panels, rear deck and rear seat divider are all custom red/grey. Door and window handles are Billet Specialties. Dash is custom built from machine turned aluminum with two 5” Autometer gauges (white with black needle/numbers). The steering wheel is from Billet Specialties. Stereo is a SONY head unit, speakers are all Blaupunkt and the amp is from Sony (trunk mounted). SUSPENSION – The car has air bags front and rear, I would consider it a basic system, with the tank, pump and solenoids in the trunk and the 4 corner controls via billet buttons in the center console. Wheels are from Coys, custom painted satin centers/ gloss hopes with a hand painted red pinstripe and custom center caps. They are 20” x 8” front, 20” x 9.5” rear with brand new Toyo Proxes tires. Brakes are the classic finned Buick drums (power). I have a complete InLine Tube brake line kit that I have partially installed ( I did the main one that runs the length of the chassis, which is the real pain in the a$$ to replace!!). The rest will be in the trunk for the lucky winner! Take a look at the pictures, the car sits right, looks mean and sounds awesome! (pictures show the car pancaked...it does go much higher than that :-))
  2. Im in Norwalk, Ct. Looking for $24,000 OBO. My vision was a modern Pro-Touring/Street fighter look. You want chrome and flashy stuff, you won’t find much of that here I am afraid! BODY - I began by adding a complete 65 front end (fenders, headlights, turn signals, custom lower bumper with driving lights and billet grill) I added genuine 1956 Buick portholes in the fenders, shaved the door handles/locks (doors are now controlled from a remote fob with a hidden emergency door button in the car), Hagen’s Hot Rods rear teardrop tail lights, exterior trim smoothed, custom hood scoop, front and rear spoilers and flared out the rockers for the side exhaust with custom exhaust tips. Body is SEM’s color horizons Hot Rod Satin Silver. (7 quarts at $100 a quart!!) All trim/bumpers/grill/headlight doors are satin black. The trim is in excellent shape, as are the bumpers, painting was a "style" choice, not due to physical defect. Underneath was wirebrushed and undercoated. ENGINE/TRANS - Engine is the mighty 425 “nailhead” with a turbo 400 trans. Engine and trans are original with 70,000 miles. The engine is basically stock other than a new ELCO 2 x 4 barrel intake and a pair of rebuilt Edelbrock carbs. It has ELCO valve covers, chrome breathers and a billet thermostat housing. Engine has been well maintained and recently had new plug wires, plugs, upgraded coil and the oil/filter changed. Exhaust is a custom side exit type using Allens chambered mufflers (think 67 big block Corvette!!) The car has power brakes and power steering. INTERIOR - Is basically completely custom. The front and rear seats are red leather from a 2006 GTO, the fronts are power operated (forward, backward, up ,down, recline and special access for rear seats). The door panels, rear quarter panels, sail panels, rear deck and rear seat divider are all custom red/grey. Door and window handles are Billet Specialties. Dash is custom built from machine turned aluminum with two 5” Autometer gauges (white with black needle/numbers). The steering wheel is from Billet Specialties. Stereo is a SONY head unit, speakers are all Blaupunkt and the amp is from Sony (trunk mounted). SUSPENSION – The car has air bags front and rear, I would consider it a basic system, with the tank, pump and solenoids in the trunk and the 4 corner controls via billet buttons in the center console. Wheels are from Coys, custom painted satin centers/ gloss hopes with a hand painted red pinstripe and custom center caps. They are 20” x 8” front, 20” x 9.5” rear with brand new Toyo Proxes tires. Brakes are the classic finned Buick drums (power). I have a complete InLine Tube brake line kit that I have partially installed ( I did the main one that runs the length of the chassis, which is the real pain in the a$$ to replace!!). The rest will be in the trunk for the lucky winner! Take a look at the pictures, the car sits right, looks mean and sounds awesome! (pictures show the car pancaked...it does go much higher than that :-)) WHAT IT NEEDS - I would say It needs a couple things here to really finish it off – for example the air ride controls are pretty basic, I would spend the money and get a programmable control unit. You will need to put the autometer sending unit in the gas tank. The shifter needs adjustment, it doesn’t seem to “click” into drive, the trans is fine, it’s just the shifter itself. The headlights are right now a manual process (you have to open the doors by hand). I was going to design an electric motor set up, but ran out of time. It needs new door weather strip. NONE of these things effect the way the car drives now, they are simply the icing on the top of a very cool looking satin silver cake!!
  3. Went to move the '64 out to give it detail and found the brake pedal went to the floor...master cylinder has no fluid...puddle under the left chassis rail at the rear...the line at the junction with the flex line is broken. So my question is...can I get this brake line (the main one that runs to the rear from the distribution block under the master cylinder)? or should I just buy a length of 3/16 line and make my own (it must be 7 feet long!!)? and lastly how hard is it to replace the whole thing? any feedback would be most appreciated. Thanks, Nick
  4. I need two parts for my custom 64 to finish it off. 1- the little round nut that mounts the trim pice to the wiper arm mount on the cowl panel in front of the windshield. 2. I need an -on/off accesory switch that mounts to the panel under the dash, dont care what it was orignally for, just needs to be an on/off type. Any help will be much appreciated. thanks Nick
  5. They are in very nice shape, no rust, they where on my 64 and custom painted before I did a front conversion to 65 fenders/bumpers/lights (see attached picture). I was storing them in my shed and it got partially crushed by a tree during hurricane Sandy and they are just taking up too much room in my garage now.(I also have a lower radiator panel and a modified 65 grill if anyone wants to move the headlights into the ends of the 63/64 fenders) $150 OBO for the pair ..They are big, heavy and would be a fortune to ship. I am in Norwalk, Ct come get 'em if you want them! thanks Nick
  6. If the backspacing is right, dont worry about the offset. Backspace and offset both give you the location of the wheel mounting face, but they are measured differently, by using two different points of reference. Lets start of by choosing a wheel, say 17x8. The 8 part is the "bead" width so to speak, the inner distance between the front and rear wheel lips, where the tire would mount. Now if you put that same 8" wide wheel flat on the ground and measured from the floor, to the outer edge, it would = 9", the 8" bead width, plus 1/2" front and back for the wheel lip. Ok backspace measurement - this is the measurement from the hub mounting face, to the outer edge of the lip at the back of the wheel (the 9” width) Offset, is the distance (in MM’s) the hub mounting face is moved from the center line of the wheel, forwards or backwards, using the bead width as the total width (the 8” width) . So an 8” wide wheel, with 4” backspace (so would have 5” dish), but it will have -11 offset (the mounting face is moved ½” rearward of the wheel center line)
  7. Thanks for the feedback guys, hopefully the weather stays dry (thou cold) this weekend and I can get the fender on and then final body work. I wish just getting a '65 was an option...but theres so much time already in the rest of the car (suspension, bodywork, chrome, interior) that I am going to finish the front conversion...even if it kills me! LOL Nick
  8. After a lengthy break, I am back to finishing the 65 conversion on the front of my 64.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> In the process of fitting the passenger side fender, I have come across a strange issue, as it’s a custom build, not sure anyone has even had this experience, but I am throwing it out there in case I get lucky with someone else that has input.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> It appears that the passenger side front fender hits the top of the inner fender (by the hood hinge where the 2 bolts are that goes through the hinge into the fender) before it is down enough for me to bolt it down in the front by the radiator. <o:p></o:p> If I bolt the front down first, then the rear, it warps the fender and it bows in in the middle and kicks the bottom out so it will not line up with the lower radiator panel (a 65 one) or the lower bumper (a 65 one).<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Now as far as my investigation has shown there was no difference between the inner fenders from 63 to 65…and the kicker here is that the driver’s side fender fits fine.<o:p></o:p> I am no considering cutting the lower lip (the one that sits above the inner fender) off of the fender, fitting the fender and then welding the lip back on at the right height. anyone?????? thanks Nick<o:p></o:p>
  9. These are very nice, i would say a good 9/10, the only mark is on the underside where the bumper they where on was put down on the ground without protection so there are small marks, will NOT be seen once installed. I was told they are re-chromed originals, not a repro part. $175 obo + shipping. I can take Paypal. thanks Nick
  10. Gene, let me confirm we are going to Carlisle, if yes, then we can arrange to meet up. Thanks Nick
  11. Hi, I am looking for a pair of front marker light/turn signal housings from a 65. I’m talking about the ones below the front bumper, I don’t need the chrome trim or the plastic lenses, just the metal (I think its pot metal) housing that bolts into the fender. I don’t need show quality, I just need useable.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Thanks<o:p></o:p> Nick<o:p></o:p>
  12. To put 65 clamshells in a 64, you need to replace both front fenders, lower bumper, grill, grill panel and front bumper. You can get away with using the 64 inner fenders, just have to do a small amount of cutting. Nick
  13. I have had my door panels recovered and am would really like to replace the felts on the door panel. I did not find any "reproductions" during my searches, so has anyone ever used any of the "universal ones with any success? Nick
  14. One more TTT. Still need a 65 lower front bumper. Nick
  15. I am in need of a 65 lower frotn bumper asap. I had bought one off of ebay and it turns out to be a '64. Chrome does not need to be shiney, it can have a couple of dings (its goiing to be modded and painted anyway). So let me know what you have and what the shipping would be to Norwalk, Ct 06850. Cheers Nick
  16. My '63 is done, but I decided last winter that I prefer the clam shell headlight look, so I found a really nice pair of '65 fenders (the ones on my car now where pretty bad before I painted them so had planned on replacing them anyway), a set of 65 headlights, surrounds, bumpers and made a billet grill for it, just have to tie up the loose ends now with the grill cross piece and lower bumper. Nick
  17. I have the headlight stuff, have a custom grill and have the front bumper...the inner fenders sare ok, just the angel at the ends of the grill cross piece are at a different angle than the fender mating surfaces. Nick
  18. I am doing a 65 fender/headlight conversion on my 63. I mocked up the fenders today and noticed that they don't match up with the front panel (the piece across the front that the grill attaches to) Was that a unique item to 65 aswell? Nick