Pushrod

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About Pushrod

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  • Birthday 08/10/1944
  1. Original '42 Century Sedanet, model 66S. Complete, with Compound Carburetion, all correct parts. Runs great, only upgrades are Diamond Back radials. Cover car Nov. 2010, Buick Bugle. Located in Oak Harbor, Wash. $29K. Doug Mumaw, pushrod@live.com.
  2. :confused: I am wondering if there is a later year that would use the same rear brake cylinder as my '42 Century? I would imagine that it would be somewhat of a common piece at least up until '48, or until power brakes became available? Any ideas, I son't have access to a manual that compares like parts from car to car.
  3. Does anyone know of a source for an armored coil, and what years were they used on? My '42 Century has one that still functions, but I'm wondering what to do if it needs replacing? I don't remember that they were used on the later Buicks I had, like '48 and such. I would rather keep it stock if possible, and not delete the firewall mounted coil as it is now,
  4. What is the correct replacement filter for an AC L-11 oil filter? Is there an alternative to the NAPA 1001 that I have used in the past?
  5. What is the correct filter replacement for an AC Type L-11 oil filter? I have used a NAPA 1001 in the past, but now find them difficult to find. Is there another type that can be used? This is on my '42 Century, and I can't remember how late they used this element filter.
  6. I forgot to ask, if one was to replace the coil, is it necessary to remove and replace the ign. switch/lock as well?
  7. Thanx, I will just do some cosmetic painting and leave it alone for awhile. Hpefully it will last as is. Appreciate the reply.
  8. As I was attempting to remove the coil from my '42 Century, the base with the armored cable would not release. I was fairly sure I released the "snap lock", but when I attempted to turn the coil to release it from the base it seems it is corroded together. It looks like the coil's base is broken loose from the coil itself. It is still functioning, the car will start, but I'wondering if I should just "update" to a newer normal coil and rewire? Can a new wire be theaded through the cable to give the appearance of the stock look?
  9. No set screw on stem, I as assuming it is pressed on to a splined shaft. I think I will send it in to the Clock Works. Thanx, Doug M.
  10. My Jeager clock in my '42 Century stopped working. If you try to "set" the time with the stem winder, it is very stiff, leading me to believe it needs to be cleaned and lubed. My problem is trying to remove the clock body from the case, as it comes out face first from the case which mounts to the glovebox lid. I can't see how to remove the stem winder to allow the body to be removed from the case. Ideas?
  11. I've gone that route several times in the past. If you're using a stock cam, ok, but if not, watch for coil binding of the valve springs, and check the valve to piston clearance if using aftermarket hi-comp pistons. Not sure if just bumping the comp ratio will give you a whole lot of difference in normal driving. A good surface mill on the head, and a nice angle grind of the valves and seats will probably do the same.
  12. Also check with Flying Dutchman out of Selma, Oregon for a rebuild.
  13. I might be able to help, I have a '42 66S, complete. The progressive linkage is really at the base of the throttle pedal, two individual rods, nothing is hooked up between the carbs. There are two separate linkage rods coming off of a bracket at the base of the firewall. The rear carb (secondary) is a "dump" carb, no accelerator pump, and is controlled by throttle position and vaccum, similar to a Rochester Quadra Jet. What are you putting this setup on? If it isn't going to be a stock type deal, you can fabricate a progressive type linkage. Doug Mumaw
  14. Check with the Flying Dutchman in Selma, Oregon, he did a good job on my 42 pump. Doug Mumaw
  15. Check out dualcarbregistry.org to see how many 41s vs 42. Also note the difference in quantity between the 320 vs 248 engined cars.