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38Buick 80C
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Posts posted by 38Buick 80C
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a "rubber" wheel would look more like this in '38.
But @MCHinson stop wasting your time with someone who cant be wrong... drop the mic and walk away....
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2 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:
Please show me some documentation that there was an optional plastic in 1938 that lasted longer than hard rubber, one that still looks shiny and new after 83 years. Other plastic used in 1938 Buicks was nitrocellulose which deteriorates just as quickly as hard rubber. And the $1000 price for refurbished banjo steering wheels may have been true years ago but they went up. Let's go Brandon.
I'm having my wheel recast... it's not $4K... It's not $1k either...so...
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23 hours ago, Smartin said:
Hey Steve, did you get my reply to your email last night? I have a 58 Limited coming to the house soon...actually two. It will be a couple weeks, though. Until then, the only guy I know that has one on hand is Lance.
Two 58 Limiteds???????
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1 hour ago, EmTee said:
Thanks -- they look just like mine! So, what keeps them from slipping and the hood slamming shut? I glued rubber pads to the end that interfaces with the hood, but just breathing on the car seemed to start them sliding out from under the hood. That's why I fabbed the U-channel fastener to replace the bolt through the cowl. I apologize for side-tracking your topic, but I was looking at the early photos of your car and thought I saw what looked like a different bracket at the base of the strut. Thank you for posting those close-up pictures!
Not my most favorite photo, but the best one I have of the hood prop engaged. the answer to your question is the mounting bolt acts as the thing that keeps the prop from moving.
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11 hours ago, EmTee said:
Could the wheels have been red originally and a previous (original?) owner had them re-painted in body color?
While I have your attention, would you please post a picture of the hood strut bracket that mounts to the cowl? The mechanism that locks the strut when the hood is open is missing on my '38 Century. I made up a set of brackets to capture the strut by welding a carriage bolt to a large fender washer.
Though they work well, I'm curious as to what the original hardware looked like. My homemade locks hold the struts in a vertical position, whereas earlier photos of your car show the struts angled in toward the center of the car. I assume the mechanism is the came on the large series as on my Century. According to Matt Hinson, the '37 uses a different strut mechanism. No hurry, as I'm watching this thread with interest.
Here you go front and back
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Had a little time this afternoon so got some stuff done, but didn't take a bunch of pictures.
On the front side of the car I took the body and serial # tag's off. I removed the steering link as well as the second portion of the throttle pedal that bolts to the floor board. I vacuumed up the floor boards really good and there is a lot of rot there unfortunately.
I rolled the car outside and spun it around in the driveway.
I took the trim rings and hubcaps off all the wheels. I removed the trunk lid from the car (don't think that has been off previously). I also took both rear fenders off (those I'm confident have been off the car due to hack job way they were bolted on that required me to remove all the panels in the trunk. The stainless trims is also BOLTED on at the trunk, so almost bent it trying to take it off, may have a little.
Once again I'm running out of space. I can take the deck lid to the blaster, but need to do some more removal ( of tail lights and splash pans) before the fenders can go, probably should have done that but I was tired.
One note of interests that i thought was unusual. I chipped the paint on one wheel while removing the hubcaps. It would appear the wheel is blue matching the car, but it might have a red pin stripe, which would be odd. Need to research that more and try to remove some more paint.
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Really want to get this off to the shop just after Thanksgiving so we can have the body pulled and put on the rotisserie and sent to the neighboring media blaster (body and frame separately). Got a few more things to come off the front side but probably gonna roll it out spin it around and start working on the tail end some more soon.
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So soccer practice was cancelled tonight thus i had the chance to play in the garage some. Incidentally soccer season pretty much runs through May, but with a break here and there and the winter league thankfully has no practices only games and only one kid plays winter league so will get some work done hopefully then.
I made the most of the bonus day
yes the motor is now out. It fought me, but I won
interestingly... because I had to take the transmission cover off so it would clear the firewall I got to look inside... the interesting part is... it is bone dry... not a drop of fluid. Wonder how long it's been like that... none of the gears appear damaged or heat discolored, so Buick sure built them well I guess.
A few other misc part that also came off either to get the motor out or since the motor was out and I could get to them
this pile is going to powder coating place cause... well they are nasty grimy in spite of getting wire brushed some...so better to have them sitting around clean and ready to go back on the car than in the way and nasty
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This is gonna be at Lisle correct?
What's next after this is back to Lance?
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I managed to get the "good" front motor mount bolt out. If you look closely it looks like it twisted (as in starting to sheer) and definitely isn't straight anymore either. So gonna need 2 of those. luckily they are the same across all of '38.
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19 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:
I decided that I'll have the intake manifolds powdercoated gloss black.
excellent choice you will be happy.
I had the exhaust manifolds powder coated too but it was a specific high heat coating good to 2300 or something like that. On the 80C i must have exceeded it as they got chalky and flaky but it was warrantied so they redid them. On the Charger they are still good. you might inquire about it. it was only available in two colors matte black and a silverish color.
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3 hours ago, old-tank said:
or the second coming.
sounds like the subcontractors on my construction projects
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2 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:
Next step... Gonna try and pull the motor.
well tried to do it without taking the trans loose as i wanted to keep the rolling chassis with brakes, but alas, no joy...
maybe next weekend.
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My pile of powder coated items is expanding (along with a rebuilt pressure plate).
I also got the radiator back from the shop with a clean bill of hhealth
Dropped off all the chrome at Hershey to be redone along with the dash for woodgraining.
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Next step... Gonna try and pull the motor.
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Well a little progress before soccer today...
After weeks of ATF/acetone some screws came out via the beating the piss out of them with an impact driver method.
Other I gave up and got a the grinder out.
Results.
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I put a sock on my 80C and pulled it off quickly... Caused fuel starvation.
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14 minutes ago, tbenvie said:
This one also shows blackwalls.
where did this photo come from? this looks like the real deal. Note the front plate seems to match the black and white photo.
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On 9/26/2021 at 4:58 PM, 1939_Buick said:
Is the 2nd photo definitely from the race? Expect there are many photos of the race
From BCA meet 2003 (100 years of Buick)
And RMauction 2011
This is NOT the pace car. This is the much more rare 80C slant back as others have alluded to. this car was in the NC area for a bit. It's nice but a replica as I understand
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only a small amount of time to work on the car this weekend as we have a full day of soccer games tomorrow and one earlier today. I didn't feel like beating the screws out and wanted to get something done that looks like major progress.
So I had the oldest pressure wash some parts to go to the powder coater while I pulled the rockers head and eventually a few of the pans off the block.
I'm not exactly sure what I am looking at on the intake valves and around the plugs.
There is a minor ridge in the cylinder wall I feel pretty good about that for the age of the motor.
quite a bit of sludge on the rockers and on the head.
pulled the harmonic balancer and timing chain cover too. along with the oil plan and the push rod cover (no photos).
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10 hours ago, Dave Gelinas (XP-300) said:
Brian
Who are you going to use for the interior now that La Baron Bonney is gone?
Well in fact nothing has changed as they didn't have interiors for my RM anyway. So I will likely get the fabric from Bill Hirsch, maybe SMS. And then have the upholstery done locally by my usual guy who did the 80C and some of the '30.
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Picked up the few test pieces that I had powder coated. I am pleased. Some rust putting is visible, but they got off all the undercoating and I feel like they got the semi-gloss finish perfect.
Well worth the spend. Will give them a few more pieces at a time so I don't lose any.
Little before and after so to speak with the other running board brackets yet to be done next to the completed ones for comparison.
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Tough sledding... I'm calling it a day.
I got the firewall pad off, with help from my oldest
also the parking brake is out as is the electric wiper motor someone had installed.
I played around with removing some of the headliner just to make some progress on something not sure what that material is on the roof an whether it is factory original. Looks like some sort of sound deadening but doesn't look 85 years old.
I did find something interesting on the side of the front seat. Original 85 year old fabric that had been covered over
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I also got the stainless windshield surround off the car, that wasn't fun. I hope it cleans up OK, I chromed the one on the 80C and putting it on the car wasn't fun as some of the chrome cracked.
Finally and the reason for waving the white flag for the day. The bolts/screws for the trans cover, pedal surround and the accelerator pedal base are all apparently going to take the brute force method to come loose. I know the motor has never been out of the car, but I guess the trans hasn't been either. My muscles are already aching from all the door screws that took the brute from impact driver method... It was tough sledding today. and the screws are below are such a pain, can get no leverage on them
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Still have to drive the screws out of the driver's side door latch and remote.
Taking a break though.
Carolina Roadmasters: Collect all 4 - '38 Roadmaster Model 87
in Me and My Buick
Posted · Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
Finally had a full day to work on the car and accomplished quite a bit as it is now ready to go out the door to the media blaster
So I removed the headliner in total it was partially removed before. along with all the misc pack tray related items
Then removed the rear seats and side bolster/ arm rests.
I got all the carpet and back of front seat fabric off
getting the rear quarter windows out was a bit tricky, but I figured it out. I took a few detailed photos of the degraded window felt seal
Got the rear glass out and the stainless surround trim as well
The rear doors were disassembled of glass and hardware
I did receive this week my new stainless exhaust. Unfortunately there is an issue with the front pipe. I had the same issue on my 80C and I thought the vendor, due to my previous issue corrected his notes but apparently not... so he gets to do it again...again...
not pictured but I also got the body wiring harness out, the parking brake cable off and the master cylinder removed.
The deck lid and the rear fenders went off to be media blasted the week prior and I have the nose and radiator support in the car to go with it to the media blaster.
I still have to prep (i.e. disassemble) the engine side panels for blasting but another day....
Once I get the car out of the way I will have some room to mount the motor to the engine stand and really get rolling on that. Will probably also get the stainless in the queue for polishing soon too.
Still a long way to go but I'm pleased with the progress to date and glad to have this milestone accomplished.
a few other random photos, cleaned up and vacuumed out...