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About bober

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  1. The factory MoPar Part seal #1064941 (1 piece) split seal is held tight in the block by the main bearing cap crushing it by a predetermined engineered amount. I have heard of someone selling newly made aftermarket rear seals which tend to leak somewhat-not sure who made them. I have always used the above seals I have found through various swap meets and other venders. OEM NOS seals are hard to find and $$$$. Bob
  2. Who's seal are you using? Factory MoPar 1 piece style? Crank should be out to replace it regardless of what the book says! I have replaced many of these rear 8 cylinder seals during rebuilds and never had a leaker or a spinner. If it's a NOS seal trying to open it up and shove it in will tear up the seal surface-IMO- and it will leak. I use permatex sealer on the back side groove and a light coating of grease on the seal lip and crank surface. Bob
  3. I am in the Woodinville area.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stude8</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the response, where are you in the "Great North West" ? The C39 we are working with is in Bellingham, WA. Stude8 </div></div>
  4. I have one. It will need to be rebuilt, don't trust a used one to be OK as is. They can fail instantly and suck your master cylinder dry in a matter of seconds! Have had it happen and heard the same story from others. Bob
  5. bober

    1948 desoto

    Thats a tough one to find in the 6 cylinder spec. I'll check for you-might have one-maybe. 46-8 C38 is what you want? Bob
  6. Silicone sealer swells up with gas on it and will dissolve and get into the fuel system. I just read that on a tube yesterday, Brand was "Permatex". I have seen it happen.I would not use it myself. Read the product info. Bob
  7. kieser31-- glad to hear someone has also used this lining breakin procedure and not gotten all caught up in what the books say! It does work! It's just slower to get excellent results..and so easy and cheap! Bob
  8. I have owned these old mopars Ply/Dodge/Chrysler for over 40 years and never had the miller or the ammco tools to adjust the brakes. I always kept the anchor arrows set to factory positions-rear anchors faced each other and front wheel cyl. anchors to the W/cyl.Pressure bled them out and adjusted the main shoe adjusting bolt-shoes slightly dragging. Would drive 1000 miles or so- adjusted shoes again. And the pedal firmness got much better till the 3rd adjustment pedal would only go down 2" at the most and be ROCK HARD and the car would stop straight and excellent correct stopping pedal feel. I
  9. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rusty_OToole</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Chrysler brakes were considered the best drum brakes available. Better than Bendix. The only problem is setting them up properly after an overhaul. Brake adjustments are not difficult and only need to be done every 5,000 miles or less.</div></div> The brakes on all the MoPars up to 1956 are excellent brakes. People just don't get it-they need to have some patience to let the new brake lings wear in to conform to the drum. They read th
  10. Andy is a great- honest- easy to get along with guy! Bob
  11. That twin carb setup that Reg sold was off of the 1953-56 Dodge 2-1/2 ton trucks. 25" long blocks. The larger 33" length Dodge truck engines from 1951 up (306/331/377/413) engines all had twin carbs/exhaust except for busses. Bob
  12. The Chrysler 323.5 8 cylinder engine has only hardened exhaust seats. Intake seats are cast into the block. Bob
  13. I have several 1946-8 chrysler cars with the 8 cyl. engines. they are very reliable with good care- oil changes ect. High mileage engines have tendancy to wear out the ring lands. Exhaust manifolds are a problem and water pumps pricey- other than that they run as smooth as butter! Bob
  14. You have quite a rare car name! Oddly enough there is a red 42 S10 5th Ave convert in my area W/ the skirts ect. Bob
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