KDirk

Ok, let me know. Only trouble is there is no Famous Dave's BBQ here in STL. Guess we'll need to find another lunch hangout. Plenty to chose from.

Dave, is your route taking you anywhere near St. Louis? Might be able to meet up if so.

Ronnie, as always, feel free to cop it for inclusion there. If it needs to be edited for clarity (or brevity, heh) have at it.

No trouble. One other tip: if the bumper rub strips are already dimpled - as is frequently the case - use a heat gun very judiciously on the strip (with it removed from the bumper and sitting on a flat surface) and these distortions will nearly always smooth out to like new. The plastic used for these has a memory and will return to its originally molded shape with just a bit of persuasion from a heat source, unless it has been badly damaged by an impact.

You need the HAL 2000 GPS. "I'm sorry Dave, I can't let you do that". For those who remember the sequel, "easy as cake". Or maybe it was "piece of pie". Hey, it's been a while. I'm glad you - and the car - made it out ok.

Removing the trim from the doors isn't too bad, there is an acorn nut holding a stud through the door panel at both ends, the rest of the molding is held on with plastic snap clips held to the door by small metal pegs welded to the door skin (the clips have keyhole slots to slide on and off these pegs). Remove the acorn nuts, and remove the molding by gently popping it up on off from the bottom edge. Reinstallaion should place the clips on the door first, making sure that are aligned straight then pressing and snapping the moldings into place over them. Note that this is much easier in warm or hot weather (or in a heated workshop) as the plastic the strips are made of is more flexible and easier to work than when cold. The front fender (short piece) is held on to the fender by two acorn nuts on the inside surface. A bit tricky to get to but can be done with the door open and a socket wrench with an extension of the proper length and maybe a universal joint/swivel. Note all these acorn nuts are some of the few SAE fasteners on the Reatta, they aren't metric, I think they are 3/8". The rear fender moldings are held with clips like the front door moldings, and have no studs through the body . The bumpers are a bit more complicated. To get the rub strips off (front or rear), you really need to remove the aluminum impact bar from the impact absorbers (4 bolts each) and set it up on a work bench as the rub strips are retained with molded in studs mounted through the lower facia and impact bar with about 16-20 (by my recollection) 13mm self tapping nuts with captive washers. You'll need an extension to get to these with a socket wrench, and probably need to remove the center reinforcement plate from the inside surface of the impact bar. Also need to pull the front license plate holder if present as it goes on over the rub strips. Be careful on reinstallation of the strip to the bumper as over tightening the self tapping nuts will dimple the outer surface of the strip, especially at the corners. As well, the studs can be ripped off the back of the strip with too much torque. Start each nut gently until it seems to thread on smoothly. Finally, reattach it from the center, working outward both directions and holding it tight against the facia and impact bar while installing one nut at a time to prevent the molding from having gaps and warping where it rests against the impact bar for a clean, tight appearance.

I can't think of any obd-1 capable system that interfaces with a Mac. Since the CRT cars (88/89) have a good implementation of integral diagnostics (much easier to use than 90/91 as those give you much less display feedback and use some esoteric conventions for indicators and controls) you shouldn't really need a scan tool or computer interface unless you want to do real time graphing or data capture. If you want a dedicated scan tool, look on eBay for a Tech 1 or 1A tool with a reprogrammable mass storage cartridge #300003. This was the official GM scan tool in the Reatta era, and can often be found fairly reasonable with this cartridge which tests all GM systems (engine, body, chassis, brakes, etc) on the Reatta and other GM vehicles. I have one and it does come in handy as it can do things the integral diagnostic mode cannot.

Will try this come spring. Sounds like a winner, thanks for the tip.

Barney, thanks for the quick response. I've bought a few sets of gaskets off eBay, just recently found Rodney Dickmans site. Also found a Fiero only parts site recently that sells the unusual E-clips that go on the bell crank shaft, they aren't so easy to source OE style if you have damaged or mising ones to replace. I just wish there was a source for replacement knobs. I have had a few crack due to age/heat and can't find anything convincingly close in appearance so have taken to substituting some that are the right size and have an inset at the rear like the OE knobs, but look noticeably different. These are more like stereo control knobs (because that is their intended application).

Bob, The following link has both headlight motor gaskets (laser cut cork) available with together sets of 3 delrin bushings. http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=55&products_id=261 The gaskets themselves are available from various eBay sellers, and Barney sells the delrin bushings and crank arms, but not sure he has the gaskets. Barney, can you chime in and veriify? There are also several vendors on eBay selling the gears as replacements, some with related parts like bushings and gaskets, others selling just the gears. Looks like Rodney Dickman sells a metal gear for 87-92 Fiero that would fit, but more costly and not sure I'd change it to metal from plastic. The earlier Fiero gear 84-86 won't work as it takes 4 delrin bushings thus the recess in the gear is different.

FWIW, I've seen various vendors offering brass, aluminum, and apparently grey or black plastic replacement gears for the headlight motor. I've not yet tried any of the alternative gears, so can't speak to their quality or durability.

I suspect this is a dead end, just as it was in 2009. I was here for that episode as well and remember some of the discourse. Didn't know Chuck had tried chasing it down. If someone can produce proof, great. As I said in my first response, pics or it didn't happen. In any case, we know it wasn't a production polo green convertible, that much is settled based upon production records.

Jake, if you have the opportunity to turn up information on this car, that'd be great. I'd sure like to see it if any pictures exist. Sound like you are on the right track for trying to research it. Keep us posted.

I've said enough on this already, but will add the age old internet disclaimer: pics or it didn't happen. If someone had the means to check vehicle registrations for the state of Michigan in that time frame and could pick out only Reatta convertibles, that might lead to some answers. Of course, we don't know (assuming this car ever existed and isn't being "mis-remembered") is if this car was registered to MSU, one of its organizations, or was in private ownership by a big MSU fan or alumnus who lent it for use at an event here and there. Until someone can step up and take a logical approach to researching this car to prove its existence (if it ever did) then any further discussion is just speculation and a waste of time. Someone with connections to MSU will need to spearhead that as the likely path will be to go through old university photos and publications of the era to try and spot it. If it is proved up by a photo, then further research can be done to find out who owned it and how it came to be. Until that happens, this is all just pissing in the wind.

There was never anything uncovered here - to my knowledge - to substantiate the existence of this car. Since we have established (from GM production records no less) that no polo green convertibles were built at the factory I'd postulate that if MSU had a green Reatta convertible, it started life in a different color and was repainted. This raises the question as to whether it was polo green or some other shade of dark green chosen for a repaint. The white top with tan interior makes me think it could have been either white or red to start as a decent number were made in both red and white with white tops and saddle interiors. There were also some white, blue, silver and grey cars made with white tops and grey interiors but these are much less common combinations. See the recent post here on detailed 1991 production numbers; http://forums.aaca.org/topic/305810-1991-reatta-detailed-production-numbers/ I'd add that I'm assuming the interior on the purported MSU car was saddle tan, but have no particular reason to do so other than probability based on production data. As for the headrest embroidery, that had to be done later by removing the headrest covers and adding the logo as there was no provision for doing such work at the assembly plant. Any good upholstery shop with custom embroidery capability could have done this.

Yeah, but in this case the bag isn't half empty (like the potato chips) when you open it. Good to see you back in the fold, and looking forward to pictures of this car.

Great looking car, and I really like the setting in the pic. Did you have the car lowered at some point? Almost looks like it based on the gap - or what I perceive as a lack tbereof - between the tires and the edges of the wheel wells. Be sure to enjoy the fact that it's been a reliable car, I don't mind wrenching and tinkering, but it's always nice when it just works and you don't have to worry about what might break next. At 30 years old, these cars can get into a cycle of needing multiple repairs in a short time frame, and that can get rather frustrating.

Well played. I really like the color combo. Looks to be in remarkable condition for the mileage too.

Yes, it was an option to get side moldings in body color. In 89 and 89 I believe the majority built had black moldings, but in 90 and 91 more had body color moldings instead. Kind of makes sense as the monochromatic look became more popular as the 90's progressed.

I'd still love to know the story behind that de-icer. I have a couple of those myself, and have long wondered how they chose a Reatta for the vehicle to be pictured on the can. Seems like a very obscure choice.

I've seen part of the threaded rod captive inside the bushing get so rusty it was weakened to a point of being unsafe. This would be more commonly found on rust belt cars and if yours spent any time there, perhaps that is the issue. In areas of the country where bad winters and road salt aren't an issue, this less likely to occur. Outside of that, a wreck or a bad encounter with a curb at speed are about the only things that would damage a lower control arm to an extent requiring replacement.

I've not detonated one out of car for either disposal or testing purposes (have one I considered doing this to but decided to keep it intact). Some time ago (sorry, I have no link for it presently) I saw a story where Volvo took one of their earliest airbag equipped cars (around 30 years old) and crashed it to test the integrity of the airbag system. According to the writeup, the bags deployed just as designed thereby verifying the system (sensors, modules and inflators) was still intact and operational. Take that for what it's worth. I am of the opinion that the late 80's and early 90's GM SIR systems were designed and built to a high standard that no longer exists. Take the ongoing Takata airbag scandal as evidence of this. 30 years ago we never heard of SIR systems failing or malfunctioning in cars that were so equipped. In short, I'd trust the Reatta SIR to work when needed (hopefully never). While failure of modern systems isn't common, it seems less integrity can be expected due to penny pinchers and corporate morons, as well as greater complexity of modern systems (more sensors, more airbags, more heavily dependent on the software aspect of these systems). From my understanding, unless the inflator is compromised by some means, the chemical agents that generate the inflation action should remain stable indefinitely. Honestly, I'd probably by more concerned about the possibility of the impact sensors or DERM (electronic module that monitors and controls the system) failing before the inflator itself as they are reliant on mechanical and electronics parts that could potentially fail with age. If concerned about it not working right, then your only real option is to disconnect the system to prevent it from ever deploying. There is no way to non-destructively test the system to verify the bag will deploy as intended, so you either trust it to be good, or assume it is bad.

Jon, you may well have the winningest Reatta in existence. And rightly so, I would add. I don't think anyone has put as much effort into customization as you have, save maybe for Daniel (amongst those posting on here anyway). I did forget one somewhat notable item I have: a full pre-launch press kit with letters and promotional information about the Reatta on special letter head, a bunch of 8x10 color and black and white photos of the Reatta (including stamping, assmebly, wind tunnel testing, full size mockups and interior/exterior shots), color 35mm slides, a spec sheet and a few other odds and ends. Most of this is not all that exciting save for the photos and slide, but is still interesting historically.

Ronnie, I have a few patches like that I got from Marck a long while back now. I remember seeing some brass emblem proofs on eBay years ago like Barney has but they were on their own, not part of a lot with Cadillac emblems. I almost bought them, wish now I had. Kind of a cool historical piece. I'd really like a pewter model, but they are hard to find and rather pricey (ain't that right, Dave?) so I've not scored one yet. One of these days... Of course, my very best memorabilia are the four full size, functional, road legal Reatta models I own. Sometimes I take them out tovplay with them and get strange looks from people.

Don't have pictures ready to go, but I have the following: 2 3' lighted dealer signs 2 plastic models license plate (silver printing on black) Christmas tree ornament with Reatta logo Reatta logo tie tacs cutaway poster framed and matted 1988 and 1990 postcards framed and matted couple of original print ads full color glossy brochure 2 complete and 1 partial portfolio copy of issue of Collectible Automobile that covered the Reatta in detail several other magazine's with Reatta articles pictorial history of the Reatta book published a few years ago forgetting a few small things but that covers most of it.