Justin224

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About Justin224

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  1. Thanks for all of the help and quick response to help me through this situation.... I actually ran a new ignition and ground wire yesterday morning. Everything works great. Not quite sure where the root of my problem was in those wires, but problem solved. Thanks again
  2. I actually tried reseting it earlier today, no luck though. what's the deal with the 'T-on' pin mentioned earlier? that's still pretty unclear what is meant by asserting it. how likely is this related to my problem? what does this wire function as? i'm using that after market wire harness for the head unit and it doesn'tt have that fuse setup attached. also the head unit is rated 10A and i saw the reatta's radio is 15A... any significance?
  3. yeah that's what i thought, and that's why i tried a second head unit, but no luck... my unit is an alpine cda-9831, andi can't recall the other but it was a 2010 alpine as well. the illuminaion wire is not connected but i don't think it's necessary. i'm at a dead end besidesrunning new power and ground wires
  4. padgett, what exactly do you think i should do with this wire? if it's on the C6 connector on the underside of the module then i have not removed it. should i unplug it altogeter or do i need it connected to the head unit? sorry i'm a little unsure of what you meant
  5. I used a meter to test the lines, and I'm reading power all the way through, on the constant, ignition, and ground. I'ved even tested two different head units, and one of them was new right out of the box. I'm just not seeing any sign on power to the front display. The wires are hooked up to the head unit properly. I simply unplugged the black connector, and spliced the 4 wires to the new harness. I noticed that the Reatta's ignition wire was yellow and battery was red, as the head unit's color scheme was swapped. Then I just spliced the ground's and antenna's wires to their match. Was there something I'm missing. I wasn't sure if something else was interferring. I assumed I'd have power by now... What I meant from the antenna comment was that, when the plug is not connected to the head unit and I start the car, there is no response, but when the head unit is hooked up, it will operate. I figured it meant that a signal was getting through.
  6. Thanks again, that's what I was looking for. However, I seem to be stuck. I picked up a harness and wired everything up today, using the four wires that were in the black connector (number 5 in the picture that MC_Reatta attatched, the battery, ignition, antenna, and ground). However, I can't seem to get any power to the head unit. I thought it might have been a bad connector, so I spliced them together manually. Still no power. I did notice that the antenna is getting signal, and able to operate as it should. I really have no idea what the problem could be. My guess is something with the Reatta's system. I also noticed that hitting the play button to turn on the tape deck is no longer an option. The button is still on the screen, but I'm unable to press it... not sure if that means anything, but it's something I noticed and thought might be helpful. If anyone has any ideas to diagnose or solve this, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks
  7. Or rather, is this essentially what I need?... PAC CSS-100 (css100) - Noise Filters - Sonic Electronix I found that the choke coil cuts out noise from the vehicle power. If this is infact what I need, would I still need a 10-amp fuse holder like I mentioned before? (I know that my original harness had a 10A fuse, but cannot tell if this noise filter has a fuse setup included, or rather if it is just for 10-amp system)
  8. That's exactly what I was looking for, thanks a lot. One last thing that I was a little hesitant about... I bought an aftermarket wiring harness for my head-unit since I misplaced the original after tearing it out of the truck. The new harness didn't come with a fuse set-up on the battery power wire (the original had a "choke coil with 10A fuse" setup). I assume I have to buy an inline fuse holder myself. Would that alone suffice, or does the "choke coil" do more than just protect from a jolt. I was going to pick this up... 10-Amp Inline Fuse Holder for 1¼x¼" Fuses - RadioShack.com
  9. Thanks again, the harness you mentioned will be great to give the little extra length that I was looking for, and retaining the original connection. I'll have to pick one up... The head-units actually going in the armrest rather than where the tape deck is... (I have an iPod connected for most of the controls, so I really won't need to open the armrest for much) I know that the antenna's power will come from the wire in the harness, but isn't there an actual plug somewhere in the brain? I have the seats installed and haven't been able to locate it from my peering.
  10. Thanks. I read that thread awhile back before the wire-chart was added, great stuff. If I understood that right, the four wires that split off of the run below is exactly what I'm looking for, correct?... and into the black connector on-top of the module... (I see 21 years allows for some serious gunk to collect here ) If the pink wire is just the power to the antenna, any ideas to where I can find the actual plug that will hook into the new receiver???
  11. Forgive me if this is a redundant question, but I was hoping for some clarification... I'm bypassing the audio set-up in my 89 and installing a completely separate system. I'm currently working on wiring the head-unit, but am unsure of which wires to use. I believe I see three different harnesses connected to the module ( one blue, one white, and one black - each with there own set of wires). Basically, I'm looking for help on which are the correct wires to connect to my aftermarket receiver. I'm running patch cables to the amps, so really I'd like input on the power ignition wire, power battery wire, and ground. I see the pin # configurations on the module, but was still unclear. I'd like for the new system to power on when the car starts, and was afraid that if I used a wire from the wrong auxilary without knowing, I might have to hit play on the CRT everytime I want it to work. Thanks in advance, Justin
  12. Thanks. I'll take a look into that, maybe shoot him an email when I get around to replacing it.
  13. Not sure exactly what to call the problem.... but the beeping that sounds after you've turned the ignition, or left your lights on while the engine's off, has gone nutty. Instead of a steady interval of beeps, I have been getting a sporadic burst. And last night while I was getting gas and left the lights on, I noticed that the sounds would go for a few seconds, then stop, only to start up again. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance
  14. I haven't seen the zippered portfolio. My 89 came with one that folded over. The pen was there too, which is pretty awesome, but nothing as far as a flashlight or tire gauge.
  15. For as long as I've owned my 89, the headlight motors have been shot. I have to manually raise them, but that's something I'm going to deal with in the future. My main concern with them now is the fact that they have some flexibility once they are locked up - more specifically, they have room to be lifter higher, but fall back to their locking height. They seem to "bounce" when driving, especially bad around 70mph. Is there something I can do as an easy fix?