Machine Gun

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Everything posted by Machine Gun

  1. NTX: Yes, it looks like I'll have to look for a parts car and also scour tables at flea markets. The rear view of my car promises to be somewhat ugly for the foreseeable future. Rick: Yes, I did try Restoration Specialties. I sent e-mails with photos to two other suppliers in the hope that someone might recognize the clip and help me out. I plan to send out more e-mails as time permits. Just because a part doesn't show up on a website doesn't necessarily mean that the supplier doesn't have it somewhere in inventory. I'm being optimistic.
  2. Chasander: Thanx for the tip, but unfortunately no joy at NAPA. NTX: I have the Buick Illustrations and Parts catalogs, but they were printed in 1972. Perhaps I might be better looking one up from the period as you suggest, because neither of my catalogs shows an image of the clips, and as you probably know the catalogs don't show details for specific years anyway. There's also a bit of confusion with the parts catalog. For my year and body style they show a quantity of 22 of one type of clip, which seems to be the correct number of clips all around the window, but the catalog shows only 7 of another type of clip they describe as "upper." There are no additional clips or part numbers listed for the remaining 15 clips. I did a part number search on the qty 22 type clip and that one looks to be the ones that mount to the body. The other part number is 4469127, and the only information that showed up after multiple searches was that the part is discontinued and no replacement part number was given. So, without at least an image I don't even know if that's the part I'm looking for. I've been searching the web for days now, so perhaps I'll have to look for someone who has a parts car. I will also see if I can find someone with an earlier version of the parts catalog in the hope that it will have more useful information in it. In the meantime it looks like I'll be riding around this summer with a dry trunk and an ugly window frame! Thanx for your thoughts and suggestions. - Jim
  3. I have a set of new clips that mount to the body, but I'm missing the ones that slide into the stainless moldings and engage with the body clips. The car is a 1964 Skylark four door sedan, model 4369 to be precise. I searched high and low for a source of the clips for the molding around my rear window, and I came up dry. OPGI, Year One, Old Buick Parts, 65gs, clipsandfasteners.com, Classic Industries, Cliphouse, Auveco, Fusick, and others to no avail. I'm out of ideas. Does anyone know of other sources I might try? I expect the rear glass to be replaced within the next two weeks and I'd sure like to have the molding back on by then. Thanx. - Jim
  4. I'm one ahead of you, John. I already dropped by my local body shop this morning to discuss doing just as you have suggested. I didn't bring the car because the weather here isn't great, but I'll bring it over on Friday so the guy can take a good look at it. In any event, it'll probably be a few weeks until it's all done. Once I get the word that the shop will definitely do the work I'll order a set of clips and then make an appointment. Summer is fast approaching and I don't want any down time with the car.
  5. Since I made my original post I discovered that the clips that held the molding onto the car are not originals, and the replacement clips are somewhat of a hack job. I discovered this when I searched for replacement clips, because one is missing and the molding didn't sit flush with the body. The replacement clips that showed up on the web are nothing at all like the ones on the car, and upon closer inspection I determined that the original clips must have broken off and were replaced with the ones shown here. Only the screws into the body remain where the original clips were. The only original clips that remain are the ones along the bottom of the channel near then trunk lid. When you see how the replacement clips were installed it's pretty obvious why there's water getting into the car. So now I have a new problem: getting the original screws out and then screwing in the new clips. Easier said than done because the windshield is in the way of where a screwdriver needs to go. Obviously the clips were installed at the factory before the windshield was. I considered playing around with it, but on second thought I will be better off taking the car to a glass shop where they can remove and replace the windshield. I'm sure that if I muck with the screws with the windshield in place I'll end up chipping the windshield. Once I get everything done I plan give the channel a coat of POR-15 before sealing it up and reinstalling the molding. Wish me luck. It'll be a PITA to deal with, but much better than having the windshield channel and trunk rot out over time. Thanx for your suggestions, but I'll be taking a different route. I'll post updates.
  6. Hi All: I'm getting water in the trunk of my '64 Skylark. Fortunately this hasn't been happening very much over the life of the car because the trunk is in near perfect condition. However, I want to fix this ASAP to keep from having to limit my drives to dry weather days, and more importantly to keep from rotting out the trunk and the metal under the package tray. I purposely left the car out in the rain today while I was at work to give it a good soaking, and the water is getting in through the screws that hold the reveal molding clips. Whatever sealant they used at the factory is essentially gone, and I need to reseal the screws. I'd appreciate suggestions on how best to reseal them, keeping in mind that whatever I use has to be somewhat pliable since there will be some lateral movement of the screws when I reinstall the molding. Two candidate sealers I'm considering are dum dum and Permatex flowable silicone windshield sealer. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  7. I put about 400 miles on the Skylark between yesterday and today. Drove down to Shippensburg, PA, then up to Carlisle to visit a friend and take in the Spring Carlisle event. Not very many Buicks for sale in the corral, but there were a '39 and a '57 that caught my eye. There was also a '78 Regal just like the one I bought new back in the day. It was the first new car I bought. Had fun, despite the rain.
  8. If you have deep pockets and want something that looks aesthetically identical, this place might have what you're looking for: http://www.vintageautoradio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=54&Itemid=64. But first you need to find a factory radio. Otherwise you can check places like classiccarstereos.com that sell modern radios that don't look original, but fit into the existing dash for most classic carts without modification. I think JohnD suggested the best option, which would be to find a factory original AM/FM radio that should be relatively easy to find for your car. Unfortunately I don't have that option since as far as I can tell Buick didn't offer a factory AM/FM radio for the Skylark in '64, and radios from the larger Buicks of the day won't fit in my dash opening. I use an FM converter in my '64 Skylark. They were a popular accessory back in the '60s and '70s when FM broadcasting came into its own and most cars had AM-only radios. The upsides are that they're relatively cheap if you shop around (got mine on eBay for $15.00) and work well enough if there's good FM reception in your area. Downsides include analog tuning, not-so-great audio fidelity, lack of stereo, and having to hang something under the dash. I used FM converters in my cars in the early '70s, so I'm accustomed to the trade-offs and can live with them. Considering that FM converters were an accessory back in the day you could consider them more "original" than a modern radio that simply fits in the dash, yet looks nothing like a radio of the day and requires you to add a bunch of speakers to your car. Whatever you do, good luck and have fun with it. You have a lot of options.
  9. Nothing very exciting, but I took the '64 Skylark out for a road test on Saturday when I put it back together after changing out a leaking timing cover gasket. First time on the road since November when I discovered the leak after returning from a car show. I'm ready for Spring to start feeling like Spring out here in NJ.
  10. Got it John, thanx. I hope to have it all back together and ready for the road in a couple of weeks. Now that it's all apart I have to clean everything up, pick up some bolts and get everything back on the engine. Not a very big job, but I'm only going to have an hour here and there to work on it.
  11. Thanx EmTee. I didn't realize that the long bolts in the block were open to the coolant passage. I get it now.
  12. JohnD: I had planned to use anti-seize on along the length of the bolts and also on the threads, but would you please explain the purpose of the thread sealer? I've never used it before and I'm not sure why you recommended it. Thanx, Jim
  13. I sure will, Bill. I have a supply of anti-seize that I use for my motorcycle spark plugs, O2 sensors and various other things on the family cars.
  14. Thanx for the tip, Tin. I have a set of those, around here we call them easy-outs. I hope not to need them since most of the bolt remains sticking out of the block and I'll be able to use my stud extractor on it. That process should go fairly quickly, since I'll be able to use the oxy-acetylene torch to heat things up without worrying about ruining the aluminum case. You probably know this already, but you live in a very beautiful part of the world. I was in the City of Vancouver back in '77. Loved Gastown. Didn't make to the island, though.
  15. Success! The cover came off without damage. Repeated cycles of heat, ATF/solvent, a drill, and pressure via a harmonic balancer pulley placed in between the block and the water pump mounting boss did the trick. After several cycles of heat and ATF over the course of several days I managed to get the timing cover to start wiggling, and that was encouraging. I hit a snag though, when continued efforts over the course of two more days failed to get the cover to budge beyond the wiggle stage. I noticed that what little movement there was could be seen where the cover meets the block, and the end of the bolt by the water pump showed no movement at all. I figured that was where the problem was, so I decided to drill out the bolt. I didn't want to chance ruining the cover, so I drilled only up to the point where the water pump met the cover. That did the trick. It'll be awhile before I get it all back together. I have to get the stud out of the block, (which should not be as much of a challenge since I can use a hotter torch there if need be), separate the water pump from the case (all of the remaining bolts but one broke off and the pump is stuck to the cover, and then I have to order a new set of bolts. Guys, thank you very much for your suggestions and encouragement.
  16. Yep, gonna take all your advice. I will start tomorrow with the process, and if my work schedule permits I'll treat the cover over the course of next week and hopefully I might get it off undamaged by next weekend. I have an acetylene torch that I'll use to gently heat the area to hopefully move things along. Hotter than propane but not hot enough to easily damage the aluminum like oxy-acetylene would. I agree, patience is the key.
  17. John and Old Tank: Thank you for the suggestions. First, there was a bolt sort of hidden between the oil pump and the oil pan that's not easy to see unless you get under the car or look at it head-on. Yep, all the bolts are out. I have a nice, clear view of the cover because I removed the radiator. I hadn't heard of using transmission fluid to free up stuck bolts, but it's worth a try. I'm not sure that the stuff will migrate along the bolt since the bolt is horizontal and there's about four inches of travel required but hey, I'm willing to give it a go. As for drilling along the bolt, that's my option of last resort just before I exercise the nuclear option with the torch. Given that it'll take some time to treat the bolt and my limited time to work on the car it'll be a couple of weeks before I have results. I will be sure to let you guys know how I make out. Jim
  18. Hi All: I had a leak in the water jacket gasket between the timing cover and the block, so I'm going to replace the gaskets and install a new water pump while I'm at it. This is probably not a new issue to many of you, but I'm dealing with snapped-off bolt heads. I'm not too concerned about the short ones on the water pump as I will deal with them after I get the timing cover off, but there's one four-inch bolt on the passenger side that goes through the cover and into the block. That one snapped off right at the head, and it seems to be welded (figuratively) to the timing cover. Consequently, I can't get the timing cover off. It won't budge a hair, even with a puller between the block and the timing case. I could exert more pressure on the puller, but I don't want to destroy anything. Note that all of the bolts that hold the timing cover to the block as well as the ones on the oil pan came out except for this one. I have two questions: Apart from applying heat to the case, is there anything else I should try to break this loose? I don't think that PB blaster is going to make its way far enough along the bolt to be much help, so absent other suggestions I will heat up the works with a torch. Given the possibility that the timing cover will be damaged during the process, can anyone recommend a source for a replacement timing cover? I know of several sources out there like TA Performance, but I'd appreciate hearing from someone who has personal experience with one of the aftermarket covers. Quality trumps price. Thanx in advance for your help. We've had some very nice days here recently and It's killing me to have the Buick off the road. Jim
  19. Took the Skylark to an event in Egg Harbor Township NJ known as Fleming's Pumpkin Run. Acres and acres of cars (antiques, classics, stock cars, you name it), farm equipment, tractors (as in tractor-trailers) and various other things. Buick was represented by a few examples that included a '64 Skylark convertible, a '64 LeSabre, an early '80s Regal, and a '57 Caballero. There were others here and there but I didn't have time to walk the whole thing, and it was one of those venues in the woods that's not arranged in an easily recognizable pattern where you can easily determine where you've been. The place used to be a junkyard, and several rotting carcasses remain among the trees. It's an annual event that I will most likely return to. The car gave a flawless performance on the six hour round trip, if you don't count the broken cigarette lighter socket that I will attend to this afternoon. Jim
  20. My first was a black 1950 Special that I bought for $85 in 1972. I drove it around for several months with no problems except for a leaky, squeaky water pump.
  21. Took the Skylark on a four hour outing to Eastern PA last Saturday to visit a hospitalized friend, and then on to a clambake. Instead of showing its appreciation, the car sprung a leak in the power steering pressure hose. Guess what I'll be doing tomorrow?
  22. Took the Skylark out with my wife on Saturday night for an ice cream run to a nearby creamery in Bellvale, NY. The place has decent ice cream and killer views. I was more interested in driving the car than eating, but the ice cream provided a good excuse for an hour long round trip. It was also my first time out at night with the car and I learned that a couple of instrument panel lights need replaced.
  23. Drive-ins were fun back in the day. I think there's only one left here in NJ, but it's more then two hours away from here. There's one close by in Warwick, NY, only about 15 minutes away. I've been up here for 30 years and I've never been to the place, although my kids and many of my friends go there. Maybe it's time for me to take the Skylark, my wife and a can of Off.