Machine Gun

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Machine Gun

  1. A couple of comments from my own experience. First, I agree that at that price the car might best be considered as a daily driver, in which case $10K may not be unreasonable. However, as wndsofchng intimated your $10K car may well not be a $10K car once you've finished attending to the things necessary to bring it up to daily reliability. My experience mirrors his to some extent. Back in October I picked up a 1986 Pontiac 6000 LE with 30,956 miles on it as a replacement for my 2013 Dodge Dart that I put a gazillion highway miles on since new. I've always wanted an older car to use as a daily driver, and the Pontiac filled the bill for many reasons that included the combination of funky looks with semi-modern features such as working A/C, disc brakes, shoulder belts, etc. The car is immaculate inside and out and runs like a top. Paid $2,500 for it. But it's no longer a $2,500 car. Having been a motor head since I was a young child, I knew what I was in for with regard to getting it in shape for my daily 100+ mile commute. I'll spare you the details, but my $2,500 car is now a $4,000 car that I've put nearly 7,000 trouble-free miles on since I bought it, and I haven't looked back. It's not a stylish car, but I'd rather have it for $4K than some new jelly bean that'll set me back $30K or more. To the point as others have made, if you look at it as a daily driver you'll probably end up paying more than $10K in the end, but where are you going to find a comparable vehicle for that amount of money, and with such low mileage and style? Hopefully a very close inspection can provide clues as to how the vehicle was stored over the years and how it was maintained while it was on the road. For example, if the car was driven 500 miles annually as a pleasure car was the oil changed annually, or did it have only one oil change at 7,500 miles and the owner doesn't think it's due until 15,000 (you might be surprised how some people think).
  2. Welcome Tony. Very nice car. As for not being overly mechanically inclined, not to worry, you'll get there with the abundance of expertise and help you're going to find here. Jim
  3. I put about 170 miles on the Skylark yesterday between a trip to PA for a clambake at a friend's place in the Poconos, and a cruise-in at a local restaurant here in Sussex County that has the event every Saturday night during the summer. My only disappointment was that by the time I got to the cruise-in the parking lot where the classics are displayed was full, so I had to park in the adjacent field among the great unwashed. Otherwise, it was a fun day.
  4. Update: Apparently the supposed dealer, WeBe Classics, isn't what they appear to be. Go to their home page and look at the photos under "Our Collection." The cars shown cars that have different photo backgrounds, with some photos even having the selling dealer information in them. Read their About Us description where they say "...and as a car dealer we enjoy the challenge of meeting and exceeding those standards..." Then go to their inventory page and read the fine print at the bottom: "WeBe Autos Ltd. is NOT a Dealer. The independent partner/member is representing the owner of this item..." The whole thing smells, but now I'm not sure from which end.
  5. I've alerted eBay as well. I confirmed that it's the same car. I requested the VIN from the LI dealer, and it's the same as on the eBay listing. Unless the LI dealer hasn't updated his web page to show that the vehicle might have been sold, it sure looks like a scam to me. I wonder though, how would a scammer get away with something like that? Who would be intelligent enough to have that kind of money, yet dumb enough to bid on a high ticket item without first inspecting it? I can't imagine anyone transferring money or handing over cash if there's no car. Perhaps they're only after the deposit, but PayPal is pretty good about protecting their buyers and themselves against fraud. Speaking of which, there's another funny thing about the listing: they will accept a PAyPal deposit, but there's no mention of how much the deposit must be.
  6. Yep, running radials. I had a problem similar to yours with shifting wheel covers on my radial-equipped '62 Studebaker GT Hawk. Although the GT covers moved they didn't make any noise, while the Skylark cover made noise yet all four stay put.
  7. Problem identified and solved this afternoon. I would rather not have replied and let the topic fade from memory, but I said that I'd update you. The short answer is that the noise came from my passenger side front wheel cover! Here's the long answer: I lifted the car up again this afternoon and spun the rear wheels and listened for the sound once again in an attempt to isolate it. I was able to hear it, but it suddenly occurred to me that the sound emanating from the transmission tail shaft didn't seem loud enough to be heard at road speed. I started the car while it was in the air inside the garage, shifted into drive, and slowly released the brake. The wheels spun, but there wasn't the slightest hint of the noise I'd been hearing since Day One of my owning the car. OK, now what? I manually spun the front wheels again, checked the wheel bearings, nothing. I set the car down, backed it out of the garage, and the clicking was there again. I asked my wife to drive slowly out of the driveway while I walked beside the car and heard the sound coming the wheel cover. I removed the cover, road tested the car and for sure the sound was gone. Early on the process I had removed the wheel covers to see if there was anything loose inside them or with the retaining rings, but everything was tight and secure. I throughly checked the offending wheel cover after I removed it today and it was secure as ever. For lack of anything else to try, I readjusted the retaining ring teeth that hold it onto the wheel, although the cover was always very secure on the wheel. That adjustment solved the problem. The only thing I can think of that may account for the issue is that the slight flexing/deformation of the wheel with the weight of the car on it was just enough to have one or more of the wheel cover retaining teeth to make and break contact with the wheel. Whatever, it's fixed. I feel like a numb-nuts. Thank you for all of your suggestions - Jim
  8. Made a run to an antiques mall in Newburgh yesterday and took the Skylark on I-84. She cruised smoothly and flawlessly at between 65 and 70 mph with coolant temperatures staying between 190 and 210 degrees F with outside temperatures around 86 degrees. My new power steering pump and hoses stayed dry as a bone. I still have to find and fix an oil leak, and the clicking noise I described in another thread continued to annoy me, but it was too nice a day to keep the car in the garage.
  9. Welcome from a fellow Jersey guy (I'm up in Vernon). Gorgeous car. Glad to hear that you drive it regularly. Jim
  10. NTX: The click is always there, at all speeds. As I said previously it's not very loud and is only audible at road speed when the windows are down and I'm riding along something that reflects the sound back into the car, like Jersey barrier. There's no vibration at any speed, or any other symptom that might suggest a U-joint problem. I hear nothing with a stethoscope probe placed directly on the U-joint; the sound is only audible through the stethoscope when I hold the probe on the tail shaft. That's why I'm ruling out the U-joint. Hopefully it's not the tail shaft bushing. Jack: You're the second guy to mention the parking pawl. JohnD also mentioned it and I sort of dismissed it, but I should probably take his and your suggestion if I don't find anything wrong with the speedometer gear. I'll have to pull the manual and see how to check the pawl adjustment. I'll update after I get back under there in a week or two.
  11. Update (sort of). I didn't have as much time to diagnose this as I had hoped, but I did manage to find a few minutes to get under the car last week. All I had time to do was disconnect he speedometer cable in order to verify that the cable isn't where the sound is coming from. It makes a click about every quarter turn of the driveshaft. My next steps, which likely won't happen for at least two weeks, will be to remove the speedometer gear from the tail housing and see if perhaps the gear is making the sound. If not, perhaps the governor would be the next place for me to look. After that, who knows? If I can't pinpoint it after that I'll probably just let let it go until I learn to live with it, or until it gets worse or something blows up. It's not very loud and it doesn't seem to be serious, nothing like a bearing or anything like that. I have two other, more pressing things to attend to right now, like a leaking power steering pump shaft bearing and a pretty good oil leak coming from the passenger side of the engine apparently coming from somewhere above the starter. It's always something. Of course if I didn't like complaining and working on old cars I'd have bought a new Buick!
  12. Interesting information, Jim. I didn't find any evidence of welded studs on my car, or where such studs may have been removed and replaced with something else. The screws that you can see along the top portion of the window opening are identical to the ones I found along the sides and bottom of the opening, except that the ones along the bottom still had the body-mounted clips attached. The screws I removed along the top had evidence of sealer on them, so perhaps they had already been replaced once. Regardless, I'm rustproofed, all back together, and dry inside. Thanx for the insight on how things were done at the factory. - Jim
  13. My second Buick was a '78 Regal, but blue with a white vinyl top and the 305 V8. My first was a '50 Special that I drove away for $85.
  14. Brings back memories of the first new car I ever bought, a 1978 Regal.
  15. NTX: The speedometer works well and the needle moves smoothly without bouncing. While that may not entirely eliminate the speedo drive gear, it leads me to believe that the sound is coming from another source. You are correct that the sound may be telegraphing from somewhere front of the tail shaft. I'll have to do a deeper dive over the weekend. John: I will check to see if there's a shift linkage adjustment that may affect the parking pawl, but I doubt that the problem may lie with that. Consider that the sound is present in all gears, and when I checked under the car I had the transmission in Neutral. There would have to be one hell of a linkage mis-adjustment for the parking pawl be be anywhere near being engaged while in Drive or Neutral! Also, the stethoscope detects the sound only at the tail shaft. I held the stethoscope on the end caps of the front U-joint as well as the drive shaft itself while listening for the sound, and there's nothing coming from either of those locations. Of course, until I find the source of the sound I can't completely rule anything out, but based on my initial findings so far I will focus my efforts for the time being on the transmission side of things. As for the rear wheel bearings, I have no idea if they've ever been replaced, but I will give a listen back there as a matter of course. You never know! Thank you both for providing your suggestions. I'll keep you posted. Jim
  16. The click is always there. I mentioned that it's only audible from inside the car when the sound reflects of something only to indicate that it's not very loud. It's audible from under the car while it's on a lift and you rotate the rear wheels. I made no attempt to simulate ride height since the noise is always there. There's no question as to where the sound is coming from, as I used a stethoscope to isolate it to the tail shaft. I initially thought it might have been the front U-joint, but the stethoscope ruled that out. I hope next week to have time to get under there again and disconnect the speedo cable and see what happens. I should have done that while I was under there the first time, but I was running out of time and needed to get somewhere and wanted to take the Buick.
  17. This isn't really a new issue, but one that I've had since I bought the car and I want to get to the bottom of it. There's a clicking sound that's coming from under the car. It's not very loud and can only be heard while driving slowly alongside a wall or Jersey barrier with the windows rolled down, or even backing out of the driveway when I'm going slowly enough so that there's no wind or road noise. I got under the car yesterday and had my son turn the rear wheels so that I could see where the noise was coming from. It’s coming from inside the Dynaflow transmission tail shaft near where the speedometer cable attaches. I ran out of time yesterday and won't likely get back under the car until next week, but I'd like to know if anyone on the forum has experienced something like this. The speedometer works fine, nice and smooth, so I'm thinking that maybe all is well with the gear and cable. There's no perceptible play in the drive shaft where it enters the transmission. I'm not concerned that there's something bad going on in there, but I'd like to know what's going on. Any ideas would be appreciated. Jim
  18. It's all done. A few weeks ago my local body shop removed the rear window and I drove the car home to install new reveal molding clips that mount to the car body. Cleaned up the channel and brought it back to the shop last week for reinstallation of the rear window. I practically ran my well dry hosing down the window to check for leaks, and it's dry as a bone. Money well spent on the body shop labor! I had no choice at the moment but to do an inelegant work-around for the unobtainium reveal molding clips that I asked about in another thread. I had nine clips left that I distributed between the upper and lower molding strips, about half of what came on the car. The molding is back on the car and seems to be quite secure as-is. I'll still be on the lookout for molding clips, but for now it's all good. Thanx to all who offered suggestions.
  19. NTX: Yes, it looks like I'll have to look for a parts car and also scour tables at flea markets. The rear view of my car promises to be somewhat ugly for the foreseeable future. Rick: Yes, I did try Restoration Specialties. I sent e-mails with photos to two other suppliers in the hope that someone might recognize the clip and help me out. I plan to send out more e-mails as time permits. Just because a part doesn't show up on a website doesn't necessarily mean that the supplier doesn't have it somewhere in inventory. I'm being optimistic.
  20. Chasander: Thanx for the tip, but unfortunately no joy at NAPA. NTX: I have the Buick Illustrations and Parts catalogs, but they were printed in 1972. Perhaps I might be better looking one up from the period as you suggest, because neither of my catalogs shows an image of the clips, and as you probably know the catalogs don't show details for specific years anyway. There's also a bit of confusion with the parts catalog. For my year and body style they show a quantity of 22 of one type of clip, which seems to be the correct number of clips all around the window, but the catalog shows only 7 of another type of clip they describe as "upper." There are no additional clips or part numbers listed for the remaining 15 clips. I did a part number search on the qty 22 type clip and that one looks to be the ones that mount to the body. The other part number is 4469127, and the only information that showed up after multiple searches was that the part is discontinued and no replacement part number was given. So, without at least an image I don't even know if that's the part I'm looking for. I've been searching the web for days now, so perhaps I'll have to look for someone who has a parts car. I will also see if I can find someone with an earlier version of the parts catalog in the hope that it will have more useful information in it. In the meantime it looks like I'll be riding around this summer with a dry trunk and an ugly window frame! Thanx for your thoughts and suggestions. - Jim
  21. I have a set of new clips that mount to the body, but I'm missing the ones that slide into the stainless moldings and engage with the body clips. The car is a 1964 Skylark four door sedan, model 4369 to be precise. I searched high and low for a source of the clips for the molding around my rear window, and I came up dry. OPGI, Year One, Old Buick Parts, 65gs,, Classic Industries, Cliphouse, Auveco, Fusick, and others to no avail. I'm out of ideas. Does anyone know of other sources I might try? I expect the rear glass to be replaced within the next two weeks and I'd sure like to have the molding back on by then. Thanx. - Jim
  22. I'm one ahead of you, John. I already dropped by my local body shop this morning to discuss doing just as you have suggested. I didn't bring the car because the weather here isn't great, but I'll bring it over on Friday so the guy can take a good look at it. In any event, it'll probably be a few weeks until it's all done. Once I get the word that the shop will definitely do the work I'll order a set of clips and then make an appointment. Summer is fast approaching and I don't want any down time with the car.
  23. Since I made my original post I discovered that the clips that held the molding onto the car are not originals, and the replacement clips are somewhat of a hack job. I discovered this when I searched for replacement clips, because one is missing and the molding didn't sit flush with the body. The replacement clips that showed up on the web are nothing at all like the ones on the car, and upon closer inspection I determined that the original clips must have broken off and were replaced with the ones shown here. Only the screws into the body remain where the original clips were. The only original clips that remain are the ones along the bottom of the channel near then trunk lid. When you see how the replacement clips were installed it's pretty obvious why there's water getting into the car. So now I have a new problem: getting the original screws out and then screwing in the new clips. Easier said than done because the windshield is in the way of where a screwdriver needs to go. Obviously the clips were installed at the factory before the windshield was. I considered playing around with it, but on second thought I will be better off taking the car to a glass shop where they can remove and replace the windshield. I'm sure that if I muck with the screws with the windshield in place I'll end up chipping the windshield. Once I get everything done I plan give the channel a coat of POR-15 before sealing it up and reinstalling the molding. Wish me luck. It'll be a PITA to deal with, but much better than having the windshield channel and trunk rot out over time. Thanx for your suggestions, but I'll be taking a different route. I'll post updates.
  24. Hi All: I'm getting water in the trunk of my '64 Skylark. Fortunately this hasn't been happening very much over the life of the car because the trunk is in near perfect condition. However, I want to fix this ASAP to keep from having to limit my drives to dry weather days, and more importantly to keep from rotting out the trunk and the metal under the package tray. I purposely left the car out in the rain today while I was at work to give it a good soaking, and the water is getting in through the screws that hold the reveal molding clips. Whatever sealant they used at the factory is essentially gone, and I need to reseal the screws. I'd appreciate suggestions on how best to reseal them, keeping in mind that whatever I use has to be somewhat pliable since there will be some lateral movement of the screws when I reinstall the molding. Two candidate sealers I'm considering are dum dum and Permatex flowable silicone windshield sealer. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  25. I put about 400 miles on the Skylark between yesterday and today. Drove down to Shippensburg, PA, then up to Carlisle to visit a friend and take in the Spring Carlisle event. Not very many Buicks for sale in the corral, but there were a '39 and a '57 that caught my eye. There was also a '78 Regal just like the one I bought new back in the day. It was the first new car I bought. Had fun, despite the rain.