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Packard Don

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Everything posted by Packard Don

  1. Note that it is extremely rural where my shop is and I am leaving on Monday so there is only one day left (Friday) where there is a possibility to ship so I need to hear from you quickly as I would have to get it packed tomorrow (Thursday). In the meantime, here is another driveshaft that is 58" long but I am fairly certain that it is from a 1951 Henney-Packard and is shown here next to the one on the photos above.
  2. The length is about right but one of your photos shows what appears to be a postwar Ultramatic universal joint so I'm not sure what you are actually looking for. I have both types so can you confirm that we are talking about a 1941 110? These are photos of a 1940 110 driveshaft which is about 52" long center yoke to yoke fully compressed. I don't have a way to extend it to see what it measures but it appears that it can get at least 6" longer if not quite a bit more. I also have another that is also out of a 1940 110 but the telescoping yoke is not there. I have it somewhere but not sure where offhand.
  3. Are you still looking for a driveshaft? I am at my shop until the end of the week and can take a look.
  4. I have many 1940 110 pumps, if I can locate them, which should be the same. Not sure, though, so you may need to do some research. I am currently at my shop but only to the end of the week and it will be a few months before I return so let me know via PM if you want me to get them out for photos.
  5. Ah, you're completely missing the wheel. I thought you had a non-true one that you were replacing. The driveshaft places will rebuild and balance it so no worries there but I will look when I'm next at my shop to see what I have. I believe I have at least one but not sure and it would help if you sent photos and a rough length of yours so I can be sure. I have many driveshafts, not all Packard, and most look alike. You can contact me directly through my Packard / IMPERIAL page below if you want.
  6. I believe you also posted the same question on another forum. If you have a wheel, there are services that can easily and inexpensively check and true it as needed. Even the very rural Central Oregon area where my own shop is, there is such a place. On the driveshaft, there are driveshaft services all over that can shorted your original for you which is what I did on my 1940 110 when adding overdrive. They prefer having the car there to do it but will also do it if you give them the needed length or at least tell them how much shorter it needs to be. The original R9 overdrive might be a different length than later R9 units and different than R11 units so best to have the replacement available to measure and compare to the original.
  7. Again, the age of the vehicle has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with it. If it’s out of the DMV database, it must be verified but even if it’s still in the system by whatever strange means, if no documents, then it will be very difficult to re-title. Even to simply verify it, one must have either the title or a registration card even if expired. A bill of sale will not suffice and neither will any DMV receipts or printouts.
  8. There is no $20 annual fee for no-op. Although the DMV had made it annual many years ago which is how my own cars fell out of the DMV system, it is a one-time fee now and has been for at least the last decade or two although they recommend to “renew” it every five years by resubmitting without any payment just to assure it doesn't get removed. Same with unused vanity plates if you want to use them at some future date. As for the back payments, not sure but I’ve never had to pay any myself although your situation seem an odd one as without registration for all those years it should no longer be in the DMV system. As I handle only VIN verifications and I’m not a DMV employee, I can’t speak outside my own experiences.
  9. This is absolutely not true, or at least it is no longer true. Any and all vehicles including trailers, RVs, tiny homes and mobile homes must be verified if not already in the CA DMV database.
  10. I used to use Bleche-Wite on my tires until I read that the strong chemicals can change the surface of the rubber making it get dirty and yellow more quickly and even to deteriorate. Not sure how true it is but, as I recall, that was on the Diamond Back tire site.
  11. I had a 1964 Ghia-Imperial from the early ‘70 until about 15 years ago and it was a real head-turner wherever it went. Not the landau model as yours and unrestored but still looked good. Yours is gorgeous but the wheel covers from a later model don’t suit it particularly well. Is there a story behind them? Also interesting is the lack of LeBaron name plates that mine had on the front fenders and right side of the trunk lid. If it’s not already there, please be sure to add it to the Ghia-Imperial roster on my Packard / IMPERIAL page and if it is there, please send a private message to me with any updates.
  12. After all this time you've probably gotten it worked out but here is my two-cents worth anyway. As a journeyman prototype machinist (long out of the trade), drilling chrome is a very tough job at best. As the plating is only on the surface, it will likely chip or flake at the edges of the holes leaving unprotected areas that will eventually cause corrosion to the base metal. Best to strip it, drill and tap the holes, then replate.
  13. 1953 Packard turn signals were plastic, not glass. Are you sure it’s a 1953?
  14. The emblem is Chrysler Imperial (when they actually were CHRYSLER Imperial) and I have a wheelcover with the identical emblem.
  15. Because I always add radios to my Henney-Packards, I have one of each for sale on my site but I don’t recall ever having added a radio to a non-Henney yet one is without the emblem.
  16. According to the parts book, part number 416351 with the crest was for the 1951 to 1954 Henney-Packards while part number 439028 without the crest was for the passenger cars. That seems odd to me too but, unless I misread it, that’s the answer! I would expect the one with the crest to be senior and the other for junior but apparently that’s not the case.
  17. Still progressing and my proofed data has been merged with the un-proofed data PackardInfo.com, bring theirs up to date through group 29. As I finish each group, it is passed along in their format from my database but I’ve slowed down on the huge group 30 so it’s up to date and proofed only on my site but not yet on PackardInfo.com. I hope to work on it more in the next couple weeks while at my Oregon location where I have evenings available on the PC with little distraction as it gets too cold up there in the high desert to work at night in the shop, which is without heat and only a long extension cord for power.
  18. I have two sets, one on my 1954 Packard Patrician and the other on my 1956 Clipper and both sets were purchased in the ‘80s. They were sold through Sears but only by special order. Both are very low mileage sets and the only visible age damage was on one that sat flat in the dirt for several years which ruined the sidewall. These cars haven’t been driven in years but the tires still look good other than the bad one! Whether they are or not is another matter.
  19. If the vehicle is in the CA DMV database, then no verification needed but if not, then it will be required using form reg31 without question. It’s typical of the DMV to not tell you everything needed, though, so it would not hurt to have it verified by a mobile verifier who will come to you to do it and they will supply the form with their license information prefilled. Obviously I’m too far away to do it (and I’m in Zürich, Switzerland at the moment) so cannot assist but you should be able to find a licensed mobile VIN verifier in your area. Since it doesn’t run, I presume you’re trying for a non-op but once the time comes to register it, it will also need an emissions test which they probably also didn’t tell you.
  20. Sometimes giving the DMV too much information simply confuses them, which is why I generally just fill the appropriate applications, write the check and mail it all in. Sometimes in special cases like this, I also fill the Statement of Facts’ last section where you can write free-style to explain, in the most basic of terms, why there is no title. Again, not too much detail. Since the vehicle wasn’t towed, parked or driven on any public road since you purchased it, you absolutely are not responsible for any back-fees although you will need to get the VIN verified if you haven't already done so.
  21. I’ve been collecting cars for over 50 years and have never had to pay back-fees even when the vehicles were not historic. In one case when I bought a collectable car on the East Coast through a dealer that supplied only a bill of sale, it took two years to finally get the plates and then only after I resorted to mail rather than going into a local office.
  22. I would fill the application for title and the application for non-op, along with a check for $40 ($20 each, I believe but you should double-check) then mail it to Sacramento along with all the highlighted printouts you mentioned and a filled statement of facts (last section only). In about 60 days, you should get your title. Going to the DMV in person for this sort of thing is a waste of time!
  23. That’s the first I’ve ever heard that and not sure if the information is valid. As long as the car hasn’t been driven or parked on any public streets, or towed on one, it should have no back-fees.
  24. It needs to have historic plates if you are registering it as a historic vehicle because the plates are part of the historic designation. You didn’t need to get historic plates to insure a vintage vehicle as such, though, and you don’t need to get them if you want only to register it. In other words, you can get a regular registration or you can get a historic registration but the latter requires historic plates. They are required only if registering it as historic. Any particular reason to register it historic?
  25. There’s a 1956 Clipper Custom sedan in the Classified Ads of the Packard / IMPERIAL page linked below.
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