JACK M

Rich, I have the 46 dash board and I looked it recently. I wasn't really looking to see what it looked like but just looking to see if there was indeed a hole there (and there is one on the 46 that is not on the otherwise identical 48). However I am pretty sure that there is a tube of sorts that is made to accept a socket and bulb. I can dig that dash out of the parts pile and take a picture if you don't find the answer and keep in mind that mine is 10 years newer. I guess that question to ask is 'does your car indicate high beams'?

Truck shops that work on straight axel rigs may be able to help you.

Hmm, Well, if you have a wiring diagram then I am wrong. Learn something everyday. I suppose that the few ODs I have owned may either not have had an indicator or it didn't work. If you have the correct wiring diagram then you should have your answer. I recently went thru trying to figure out where the hi beam indicator should be on a car I am building. It seems that the 46 thru 48 Chrysler dash's will interchange. However on the 46 there is a hi beam indicator as you describe. On the 48 that fitting is not on the dash and the cluster has two idiot lights which are evenly spaced and are both red but one is for hi beam and the other is for turn signals, one indicator for both turns. Consequently if I am to wire the turn signals one light for either side then there is no provision for a high beam indicator. I didn't note this dilemma until the dash was installed and I am making a wiring harness. I ended up using one of those small lights that came on the front fenders od some 60s and 70s Mopars and mounted it under the dash. Had I used the 46 dash instead of the 48 I would not have had this problem. Haven't driven the thing yet, hope its not to bright. Anyway good luck with yours, fun stuff ain't it !!

It should illuminate when the headlights are on and are in the high beam mode. I don't remember any of these cars having an indicator for overdrive.

You know what? I have tried that and I couldn't get above about 3 pounds. But if this is a low pressure gauge it may be enough to see if it is working.

Is that moss on there?

It is true that moss grows MOSTLY on the North side of trees (and barns). But I see it on all sides tops and bottoms around here.

A mechanical gauge doesn't necessarily need oil all the way to the gauge, all it needs is the pressure. Typically there would be an air cushion between the gauge and the oil itself. The best way to test it would be to plumb it to an known source of oil pressure. (an engine that runs ands has oil pressure) I would be skeptical with trying to test it with air, but if you can regulate down to say 30 lbs. or so and make tight connections it may work. Your shop compressor makes over 100 psi and will most likely over power your cars gauge as that much oil pressure is rare in an engine.

Works for me.

Major magazine racks still have them.

Most racing venues require a battery disconnect within reach of the driver and with reasonable access to the safety crew. I know some guys have figured this out by routing the alternator wire thru that switch somehow. I have rigged several of these switches and a few of them would actually shut off the engine, most don't. In the tech line they never check to see if it works or not, they just want to see that it is there.

Probably correct, but here in Oregon cars will turn green just about anywhere they are parked unless heated and dehumidified. I see moss growing in the rain gutters and leaves and such gathering in the vents and gaps along hoods and trunks. Even in carports. The first thing I do when I drag something like that home is a thorough pressure washing.

Fun stuff.

Agreed, This is a common problem, I guess the answer is to not turn the battery off when the engine is running.

The front floor pan is removable.

That basic kit that Carbking shows is a pretty good deal and a basic recondition is pretty easy for most car guys. However, I would not buy it without taking the engine apart and inspecting the bores and crank. Most of the time one of these cheap rebuilds with standard used surfaces work OK, but if you find it necessary to turn the crank or bore the cylinders you can customize the rebuild kit. The oversized pistons will bump the price of the kit some. If you take the bare block and the head to a machine shop it may cost a few hundred on top of the kit, but I bet it could be pulled off for under a thousand before assembly which should take some one that knows how the better part of a day. First pull the engine out and tear down. Then take the block and head to a machine shop for measuring and estimates. Then wait for the parts and machining. Plan a clean day for assembly. Then put it back in the car. Shouldn't take more than a month with only three or four days working on it yourself. I know that you are not engine savvy from your posts so maybe a possibility would be to check with a local tech school or maybe a jr. college. I don't know if they teach this stuff in the high school shops anymore, but might be worth an ask. I had some body work done by the State Penitentiary once that worked out well.

Here is another trick that I use. Get a piece of plywood about two feet wide (maybe less) and 5 to 8 ft long. Lay it on the floorboard under the steering wheel and hanging out kind of parallel to the door. Use jack stands or other props on the shop floor. Now you can lay on your back on this bed of sorts, its easier than taking the seat out but not quite as comfortable.

Seafoam makes for good storage of gasoline.

Unhook the battery and take the seat out.

A cheap attempt would be to stick a PCV in the system ands see what happens. I agree that this owner already has a used motor in his car, Chances are that the next one will be used as well.

Since the 55 is 6 volt I guess you are considering a conversion the 12 volt. The 56 looks identical and is 12 volts, I have been driving mine for many years with no problems. Make sure that when you find the donor car you get everything else as well as the radio, gas gauge, and the likes wont work either. 8 volts is the oldest crutch known to the six volt cars and open up a whole new set of problems. There is nothing wrong with a generator and stock for the year works best.

My opinion. You already have a used one.

48 has a push button.

Just a warning on LL gas. It will kill a catalytic converter. Race gas and Av gas should not be used in any car or truck that has one.

I doubt marine. The cables would have to be really long.