JACK M
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Posts posted by JACK M
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Only one socket, the rest must be reflectors.
Cool piece.
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Posted twice.
Read my comments in your other post.
New Port has good products, and I will bet that something has slipped out of place.
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Can you see anything from under the dash?
I would suspect that something has slipped at the motor. In the after-market system I played with not so long ago there was several places in the motor that the output of the motion could be adjusted. Like if the linkage is near the outside of the driven gear the arms would travel farther. Closer to the center would result in less travel of the arms. The driven wheel had a spiral affair that offered several settings.
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Yup, double check any work sent out.
Glad it turned out to be minor.
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16 hours ago, Gunsmoke said:
I'm often amazed at how a little heat in the right place can loosen seized steel parts.
Yup, I just yesterday had some success with a heat gun.
Corroded up boat seat swivel. Aluminum post stuck in a cast aluminum housing since 1978 and outdoors around salt water the whole time.
A project that I never should have started by the way.
Back when I did this kind of thing for a living, I got pretty good with the heat. Most boat motors are held together nicely with corrosion.
Good job on the steering wheel puller.
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Lots of good advice, however the OP went MIA.
I guess it's only been a week, so might be back yet.
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I have my hand up! 🙋♂️
Any leads in the NW?
LOL
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Are there rights and lefts?
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14 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:
If you have a spare slant six and a light car to put it in (like a Valiant, Dart or early Barracuda) you could have a lot of fun with the parts you already have plus a reground cam and one more forgotten speed secret, a shaved flywheel for whippier acceleration
So many cool ideas, so little time. I do have pretty much everything I need except for hours (and the cam).
I even have both versions of the car four speeds kicking around. (darn, now I think I might need a shift linkage as well).
I like the shaved flywheel idea; I might have to get some advice on that if I ever get serious.
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I've been playing with some slant sixes lately.
I scored a dual carb set up and some headers that I would like to play with someday.
But the two runners run so dependably I don't see reason to make any changes.
I do have a couple of non running parts cars that I could hop up.
Thinking I should sell the Valiant, stick six.
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Almost time to put away the Christmas lights......😅
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Big whoop, you had a job.
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I have faith in my own work, But I always take the time to double check the machine shops work.
I had one mechanic that was getting a few come backs.
When I confronted him about it he said, "a job worth doing is worth doing twice".
He didn't work for me after that.
There is a difference between back yard and professional.
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I don't really agree with that time wasted thing.
I like to check my work as I go along.
I would hate to fire up an engine that for some reason or other doesn't pump oil.
By the way, the best assembly lube is a good quality out board oil.
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My guess is a spring loaded license plate gas cap access.
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I do not know anything about Rambler motor mounts, but it occures to me that if the rear mounts were so worn as to be "short" so to speak. Would not it be likely that the fronts may have the same issue?
What I am getting at, would lifting the front of the engine with new mounts like you did in the rear result in dropping the tail of the tranny away from the tunnel?
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3 hours ago, TAKerry said:
Too many 'its a fancy lebaron' comments.
By those that are ignorant about what they are.
These cars sold in the $30.000 range in 89. 90, and 91.
Very well built cars. However as we all know, 35-year-old technology is not the most dependable today.
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That thing is way cool, and priced reasonably with OBO.
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I had one of the manual trans versions as well as one each of the other two options.
That twin cam was a lot of fun.
I am over the urge on these now, but often think about that little hot rod.
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I often wonder if when tying down a load if the guy has any forward thinking.
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The 200 is a 7 main bearing engine.
I had one back on the 60s-70s that I ran hard for a couple of hundred thousand miles.
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Maybe you need to turn the crank while running the drill.
I have done that drilling thing with success as well. Although it been some years and I do not recall just why I did it.
It was a 392 Hemi and I think my symptoms were similar.
Those oil holes in the cam shaft only pass oil at a certain point, hence rotating the assembly while priming.
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19 hours ago, DFeeney said:
I think you will find Plymouth had a all steel roof in 1937.
I miss spoke, meant to hit 37.
For Sale: 1956 Studebaker Champion Pelham 2dr station wagon, 6-cyl. 3-speed w/OD, 50K miles - $15,000 - Alden, NY (Buffalo) - Not Mine
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
I like this one.