BHWINCVAP

IIRC there are ten different sections of metal put together to build a 60 Dodge front fender..

Put 6 people from the last two generations in a room together and they don't know how to have a verbal conversation with each other right along an older person.. I blame it on home schooling, it has taken a toll on communication and socialization skills.. But they get to sit home with mommy all day so she can tell them how great and important they are.. They never have to come in second or Gaud for bid, LOSE or FAIL. I don't know how many times I have listed something for sale on C.L. or Marketplace and had some idiot want to communicate by texting my land line phone.. That ends up in a hang up real quick, one clown got hung up on 4 times in 7 minutes before he finally moved on!

Never had any threads. I did buy a new threaded plug before I looked at it. The threads on the plug are larger than than the diameter of the hole.. Who knows whats been changed/replaced with what over the past 90 odd years?

File a "where's my mail" form on there website.. That always gets the item moving again.. they can't brush it off like they can with a phone call or a stop by. I ship thousands of items a year and have not had an item lost with the postal service, yes there have been some loooong delays and items not showing up on tracking but they all got there.. I have not shipped anything with the bafoons at UPS for over 3 years, however 3 times last year they sent me bills clamming I owed them money for packages I supposedly shipped. It took several phone calls totaling over 2 hours of my time to get the charges dropped on each account.. I found it interesting they kept insisting they couldn't tell me where the item entered their system.. I wont go into the nearly indestructible items that have destroyed... Their new motto should be "We can destroy an anvil packed in a sand filled bag" Two months ago they have decided BHWINCVAP must stand for vaping products so they are closing my accounts.. Funny I had requested all accounts closed a year ago!

I bet the snipers go after it in the final seconds in its ebay listing.. Looks like a nice piece..

I think they meant Yard Find, the top half of that car sure looks to have a few seasons worth of tree sap and dirt stained into it..

I think I got the last 4 Firestone 21x5.25 blackwall 's left in the U.S. 3 from one vender. A month later one showed in a vendors inventory on the other side of the country that was "lost in inventory", when I asked a month earlier.. I see they are now back ordering them now for delivery in 7-2022.. Tubes were a rough find also.. Same old story, its covid's fault.

Thats interesting I have NEVER done that on any I have brought into the state..?

keep us posted on what you find.

Yes you are not going to hurt the stamping if you use an fairly soft wire wheel. Have you tried asking on https://p15-d24.com/ someone may be able to give you the exact location and maybe even share a picture of one to kind of guide you in your search.. It took me several attempts to locate the last one I went looking for, it was very lightly stamped the digits were very thin and almost non existent on the bottoms. Just for S's & G'g was it from Texas? as I believe they were one of the states that used engine #'s back in that era?

The frame stamp is going to match the door plate. Not the engine #.. There were a handfull of states that used the engine # as a vin #.. It was a stupid bureaucratic idea then that has only multiplied the frustration of owners across the decades.. If your screwed on Vin matches the frame # you shouldn't have a problem getting it titled. but you may have to go with a reconstructed and let the state assign you a vin and tag. Can you get a bonded title in your state?

Man Bill, Nickel plated Gauge bezels, You are in the upper scale.. This crate of mine must have been the El Cheapo Fleet Model! . There was not a trace of nickel to be found on my bezels. At first I thought it might me worn off but once it was removed to repair the switch there wasn't a trace on the back side .. Your switch is identical.. I think the headlights were something like 23 candle power each. which is a night light for a home bathroom by todays standards.. I will take a day and do a total rewire before trying the electrical system.

Hello Mark, Thank you for taking the time to look this info up and the time to post it here! With a spread of 11 years it sure should make things a bit easier to find..

Ok, I was wondering if the ignition switch in mine was added in later,, I had seen a few with them and a few without and none were in the same spot.. Does the tail of your headlight switch point up or down?

also fits the 57- 59 Chryslers and Desotos should do well for ya they are more often than not rotted out.

57 Buick I would grab them if nice

There is a very nice Anderson Electric AutoReelLight that looks similar to this but has a mirror on the back just popped up on ebay. It is not mine and I have no skin in the game.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304039320114?hash=item46ca27da32:g:z~sAAOSwpsxgz0C7

l know my dash seems to be an early 27 odd ball compared to what I have been able to find in others on line. It has the Caskey Dupree unkeyed Headlight switch which I was pleasantly surprised to find was mostly made out of bakelite plastic and not the pressed carboard others were having problem with in their switches.. Luck was on my side as Myers Early Dodge had new Chrome Knobs and face decals for it.. Only issue I had with the new knob was I had to ream the bushing a good bit in order to get the knob thru it..

If I can get away, I will would like to stop by the show.. How do I determine what model mine is ?

looks like it might a 57-59 Mopar wagon rear bumper pod. I'll let you know better in the morning when I get down to the garage.

I need the pieces that are missing in the picture, If you have them to sell message me.. I would guess they have a wide range of interchange but I don't know. If you know the interchange post it here. Thank you in advance!

This one is only about 20,000 difference so it may have been changed , or this engine may of had a problem and was sent back to have the problem reworked/corrected and was put back in the production line out of sequence. Heck look at the two charts the one you posted and the one on the dodge brothers site and the use of the B & C motors don't agree but yet they are both from DB.. I tried to post there serial # chart here but it wouldn't let me being a pdf file.. As log as it runs decent and I can putt it around the neighborhood, I will be happy original or not.. Thanks for the help.

Plate on the floor dosen't match frame # of 711-xxx Engine is B 731-349 it may of had an engine change at one point prior to 1954. I bought if from the man whos father bought it when it was first brought into Pa in 1954.. I tried to ask him questions but he was in his eighties and a bit confused sometimes giving two opposite answers to a question. So I have been trying to figure it out on my own by searching the web and going back thru old old AACA posts. I haven't bought the Book of Information yet due to not knowing which addition to purchase , the one closest to the car serial #'s or one for the motor build date.. I do have the Mechanics Instruction Manual. If you look at the chart on the DB Club showing serial #'s it shows that the B & C Motors had Overlap usage from July 12 1926 # 708-560 thru August 23, 1926. (Vehicles with “B” engine could be found through approx) A-755,000. I dunno I just hope I can find a few of the parts its missing and get it running and driving enough to have a little fun with it.. I don't think I will ever do a full restoration .. It only has 335 miles on it since its last oil change on March 19 1959.. Due to a warped head it has not run since the 80's. I have had the head done and is ready to go back on. I do want to drop the pan clean it out and check the bearings and give it a pre lube in preparation of firing it off next weekend with any luck. Thank you for any and all info!

Ok, Thank you for the confirmation, I wasn't aware Dodge used the push in style that far back.. I never looked at the hole before I ordered the screw in plug and gasket.. Oh well back to the hunt. I have noticed this car seems to be an odd ball on several items like the Caskey Dupree Light Switch with separate ignition. I'm still trying to figure out what series it is..

Frame says it was built between July 12-22 of 1926 making it a 1927 .. Engine is a B731-349 Anyone have any idea why there are no threads in the Hand Crank Hole to screw the plug/cover into? Was there any that just used a push in cover? Or has something been swapped somewhere along the way? You guys know these cars better than I ever will.. What are your thoughts/opinions ? Thanks in advance! BinPa