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About austinsailor

  • Birthday 05/10/1946

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  1. To follow up on this, I did reassemble without the extra bb sized ball. Both of the ones mentioned above seemed to be where they should. I've since driven it several hundred miles and it's worked just fine. My conclusion is I had extraneous junk in there from some previous tinkerer. I've hauled it to our other home in south Texas and am using it like a daily driver. Causing quite a bit of talk around here!
  2. Just to close this out, I called several courier services. One, who's ad says they can move anything big or small anywhere, said they don't go there (16 miles away??), one wanted $500. 2 taxi companies wouldn't even talk about it, and a third picked it up and delivered it for me for cab fare! Then, fed ex boxed it, sent it off and their terminal sent it back. Said the local scale was off and it was too heavy. I was then stuck with it in the fed ex office, who wouldn't store it, and had a couple days to get it, thought I was going to have to drive up there. Found out my fed ex account is good for letters, fed ex ground but not freight. Local office got a quote of $495 to ship It. In talking to fed ex freight, they would add freight to my account, but it would take a few days. In the meantime, they gave me a courtesy rate of $160, picked it up that evening and it's it's trip. What a mess, what a lot of time and calls. But it's done.
  3. Thanks. This is about what I thought, but I've been wrong before and caused myself great headaches. I did lose one end of the chain while trying to get a wire on it. Better coming off than going on, I guess.
  4. I drove my 24 DB Roadster maybe 50 miles this weekend and the steering link that goes through the left hand spindle, the one that has both the drag link and tie rod end attached, became loose in the spindle. It goes into a tapered hole with a big nut on the other side. It also has a half moon key in it. Strangely, removing the key let it go in quite a bit farther, as it was getting tight on one side agains the key in the keyway, and on the other side against the round, tapered hole. I'm not sure that makes sense without looking at it, but suffice it to say, things didn't fit right. I have a second restored chassis, so I decided to dig into it to see what was wrong. What I discovered is, the diameter of the part that goes through the spindle, the tapered shaft with the keyway on the side and threads on the end to hold the nut that holds it in,was considerably bigger. Shaft diameter, nut size, threads and everything. The rest - arms to the drag link and tie rod end - looks the same. Now, I can fix my driver by just swapping it across. In reality, I'm going to swap the spindle and all, assuming there are no other differences. One is wood spoke wheels, one is large 24" disks, but it'll be easier than pressing out the shaft in the second one. So, it leaves me wondering, what the heck? You would think they are the same. But, did earlier ( or maybe later) parts use a smaller sized part? They appear to be the same except the size of the tapered shaft. When I get on the finished chassis (or what used to be) I need to find something to fit it. Any of this make any sense to anyone?
  5. I'm trying to remove the generator/starter and have no manual, so I'm a bit hobbled. Got the chain off, all the mounting clamps loose and the lock bolt with lock nut backed off but get no movement. Inside, behind the chain, it looks as though there are two rings that are intended to be driven (unscrewed) off with a hammer and punch. I'm not getting that wild until I know what I'm doing. Can anyone talk me through it? Also, the little lock pin that holds the master link in, is it a standard part? aminie had a little pin with a rin on the end, single pin, not a cotter pin, and it looked like it was made just for that purpose. What am I looking for, a modern part or what? I'm sure I can get a piece of siezing wire in there, but that looks so professionsal.
  6. I have a 24 roadster as well, looks the same. I'm curious. I often see old hulks like this drug home, and I really get it, I would too. I wonder, though, if any ever get restored or put into a shape to be used, are they mainly yard art or?? Anyone have before and after pictures of any? I have a 24 Gardner roadster that doesn't look that different, although it still has running gear and wasn't buried, but I'm not sure I'll ever be up to getting anywhere with it.
  7. I am aware fed ex will do that, they'll put it on myaccount. My problem is getting it to the fed ex office. I talked to a taxi company this moring, I think they are going to do it. I'l know in a few hours. Local courier service wanted $495 to take it the 16 miles. Really.
  8. They will, at least fed ex will, but it must be packaged. It's a little more than the old guy is up to, either moving or packing. It was sold as pickup only, I assured him I'd find someone to do that. Today I talked to two local companies who would "ship anything, big or small" and one won't, one wants as much as a small car is worth to do it, admitting they had no expecations of me having them do it. I am not that concerned with losing what I paid for it, but fellow is rebuilding my original transmission and we can use the overdrive parts out of it to restore the original. I realize this is a long shot, I was just hoping someone lived in the area and I could make it worth an hour or so of their time.
  9. Forgive me if this isn't the proper place to ask this, but I can't seem to find anyplace else that might be better. I bought a transmission for my Airflow last fall located in Southampton, Mass. A friend of the family was going to pick it up and deliver it to the Fed Ex office in Springfield 16 miles away. They'll Pack it and ship it on my account. The fellow's father got sick, he moved across the country and the transmission never got picked up. The seller is old and feeble and unable to move it. I'm hoping someone in the area might be willing to pick it up and deliver it to fed ex. I'd pay a reasonable amount for your time and expense. You don't have to pay anything to anyone, no scam involved, it'll all be on my nickel. The transmission is drained and wrapped in plastic. If you might be able to help please PM me. Thanks, Gene Gruender
  10. I always leave mine in 2nd or 3ed, whatever I was in when I start slowing down, until I come to a complete stop. Then all the gears have stopped spinning, since they are still engaged. Once stopped, you can easily slip it into 1st (or reverse if you're going to back up) with no gear clash, even if your clutch drags a bit.
  11. Best I can tell, the balls are both where they should be. "Choke" hasn't slipped. I really think I just had a couple flakes of gunk in it. The extra ball, which all indications are it is, threw me off. It ran quite well so I don't think the ball had come from there, it was just junk left from some previous guy. I hope! Got side tracked making an old flathead ford fire truck run so we can sell it, now hopefully I can put the carburetor back on tomorrow and see how it does. I got new generator/starter brushes from Myers today, I'll put them, maybe tomorrow too, in but Ihave slim hopes that will solve the starting/charging problem.
  12. Thanks. It occurred to me that even though it came out, it's possible it shouldn't have been there in the first place. I think I'll re-install it tomorrow and see how it does. I'm still curious about the intake option thing.
  13. My 24 Roadster was giving me trouble starting and I thought it was due to remaining crud in the fuel system getting into the carburetor. It would still run reasonably well, but was giving me dificulty starting it unless I primed the cylinders. Since I haven't solved the starter issues yet, this is all hand cranking. I've gone from starting first crank every time to great difficulty. Tonight I took it apart to clean it out. A little stuff was in it, not much, maybe enough to cause problems. But when I got everything back together I looked down and there was one bb sized ball left. I didn't see it come out and have no idea where it came from. I do think it came from the carburetor, though, because I cleaned the table before starting and spread new paper towels across everthing. So, my question now is, where the heck does it go. I've found this drawing on another thread on this forum, and I find no ball bearing/BB in it. I didn't disassemble the lower part with the "choke" gears, etc, and didn't remove the big brass slide valve from the center part. Anyone know where it might go? (The drawing says 27 Carburetor, but it appears to be the same) Also, I'm not familiar with the adjustable thing on the intake, which spins around and either lets air in from the engine compartment around the carburetor, or when closed, from the inside of the engine. Can I assume this is a cold weather setting? Engine compartment air when warm outside, from inside when cold? Or is something else going on? Thanks for any help.
  14. Thanks to Rodger "Dodger" and some technical papers he sent, I've got the starter figured out. First there were some connections not the best. After cleaning all that, it would turn over, but not fast enough to start. Then not at all. 12.8 volts on the input, ground on the output told me whatever wasn't going on was not going on inside. A quick inspection found new carbon brushes, not the copper brushes it's supposed to have. I have 3 more generator/starters here, tomorrow I'll get into them. Surely one has a good set of the proper brushes. If not, they'll get ordered. Thanks Rodger.
  15. I recently bought a 24 Roadster, great little car. Runs, drives and stops well. The only problem I have to worry about is the starter. It was built up by a mechanic, he died of a brain tumor about 3 years ago. His sons tell me the starter worked, but they think he worked on it again and messed something up when he wasn't doing so well. They tell me the starter worked well on the bench, but when they put it back in, nothing. The answers to a couple questions might keep me out of trouble. I'm looking at the wiring diagram in this post: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/247004-1924-dodge-starter-generator-help/ and it shows it to be negative ground. Is this correct? It also shows the starter/generator grounded. Is this a strap or wire, or just the fact that it is bolted to the motor? In addition to the post that has the cable from the starter switch (which is more to the left of the unit) there is another post closer to the motor, which only has a copper strap to itself. What is going on with this? It's probably expected, but it also doesn't charge. It does start with a simple flick of the crank, but it's a pain to put the plug back to keep dirt and rocks out of the pan. Any pointers would be appreciated.
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