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Everything posted by Machinist_Bill

  1. Thanks Hugh! Looks like your friend and I have the only ones on this forum. With the help of your photo maybe my daughter can hand paint the dial. No way can my hand be steady enough! Thanks for taking the time to answer this old thread and post a photo. Bill
  2. The lever switch that mounts on the column? If so, I will look this weekend.
  3. Wow Ray! Don't you love all the surprises? You are correct on drilling small holes at the ends of the crack. This eliminates a "Break" edge for further cracking. If the crack is all the way thru then you drill all the way thru. I have tried everything on cast cracks and all failed eventually. The reason why is because the heat causes the cast iron to expand and contract when it cools. To successfully repair the crack you need a filler that expands and contracts at the same rate as cast iron. All of the above products do not. I have heard of a process where the block is heated to approx. 1400 degrees and new iron is actually melted into the the bad area. It is then packed with K-Wool and slow cooled for about a week. This is very expensive and you could replace your block a LOT CHEAPER! If all else fails find a good weld shop. They will pre-heat with a rosebud and weld with ni-rod. Be ready to pack with insulation and SLOW COOL. Any cool air will crack it faster than you can say WTF! One more thing when you grind the cast where a respirator. Back in the day there was beryllium in the metal....... Keep us informed Ray. Bill
  4. This is a great topic! I just picked up a 1927 "D" engine and transmission and it's a little different than the trans I have with a "C" engine. Because it's a single disc clutch I doubt it will fit a "C". Hey fsnooks! It's been a long time since we had correspondence! What engine do you have? I'm not sure if a "B" engine will accept a "C" engine trans. I have always said that 1926-1927 are very confusing because of all the changes. I will keep an eye on this thread. If we need some reference photos let me know......... Bill
  5. Hello Ray, It might be better if you post the journal size of the crankshaft. Who knows how many times it has been ground over the years. Worst case scenario you could weld up the journal and grind to fit your old bearings. (With some minor scraping of course) I know your in a hurry. Too bad you are across the pond instead of across the street. I have an old "C" engine buried in a shed out back somewhere.........
  6. I NEVER would have guessed that! Great problem solving Ray!
  7. Count me in! Count me in for 2 as Ray in the UK will probably want one too!
  8. Okay, I looked in the A & B sedan listing and it matches your measurements. Darn parts book reads like computer instructions! Correction to previous post: Top Glass - DB part #19051 - 38" x 13-5/8" x 7/32" Lower Glass - DB part #19063 - 38" x 3-21/32" x 7/32"
  9. I think your upper glass is DB part #15266 and measures 37-3/4" x 12" x 7/32" thick. The lower is DB part #15256 and measures 37-3/4" x 6" x 7/32" thick. Let me know if this is correct and I can post the original DB drawings.
  10. I didn't want to purchase a truck so I bought a Harbor Freight trailer (4' x 8') to pull behind my 2012 Chrysler 200. I've hauled junk from one end of the country to the other with it! The best part? 28 MPG! Total cost with trailer, hitch, electrical, and me doing it was $600. 1750 lb capacity so there's not much you can't haul. Good luck!
  11. Probably the most innovative and safe design change ever made to an automobile was disc brakes. Unfortunately it changed our driving habits. We used to keep one car length per 10 mph of speed. Now we just keep the one car length........ I agree with nearchoclatetown 100%.
  12. You could probably get by with a 5-10 micro inch grind. Personally I would lean towards a 3-5. Your grinder will understand my numbers. Good Luck!
  13. Great advice Jon! You are truly the carb king!
  14. Took me 10 years to find wood good enough to make measurements from. A street rodder had a low miledge Coupe stored indoors since the 40's. He went with a steel roof and I went home with 90 year old firewood! I haven't taken measurements yet but am planning to do so later this year. Life seems to get in the way. I planned on drawing them up, CNC mill to shape, and sell kits to the 5 people in the world that need them! (It might be less than that) Bill
  15. I'm going to try and paint my small parts black with an appliance epoxy. Takes forever to dry but is very durable. I refurbished an antique freezer and painted it white with it and it turned out beautiful. Just a suggestion..........
  16. Unbelievable! The question was posted at 9:25am. John posted the answer, with the correct photo, at 10:31am. John I hope your hard drive, with all your categorized photos, are back up on the cloud! I can't figure how you can do it so fast unless you have a directory of "Dash Photos" or some equivalent. You have my utmost respect...........
  17. Nice start for a project! I have a 20" wheel I would be willing to trade for a 21". After Christmas I will PM you and see if you are interested! Bill
  18. What A great discovery! Thanks for posting this photo.
  19. The worst is over Rogillio........... Throw it in the back of the garage, close the door, and get away from it for awhile. After the holidays go out to the garage and fix the trans............ Keep the faith!
  20. Wait a minute... Are you talking about the car in my avatar Dave??????????? (LOL) Glad to see you're still on this side of the grass!
  21. That's not a 1926. Different trunk lid and only 2 door hinges. Looks like a 1925.
  22. http://www.ebay.com/itm/dodge-coupe-door-passenger-1926-1927-1928-1929-1930-1925-1924-1931-plymouth-1932-/151839584077?hash=item235a582f4d&vxp=mtr You might be able to talk the seller out of the trunk lid! Good luck! Bill
  23. I believe the product you are referring to is Cosmoline. Comes in a spray or in a gallon can.
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