Jump to content

Machinist_Bill

Members
  • Posts

    641
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Machinist_Bill

  1. If it's a 1926 you probably need this very elusive cap........ They show up on EBAY now & then but you have to be quick. An alternative would be to change the neck on the tank to fit a plentiful cap. Just my 2 cents.
  2. Thanks Jack but I already purchased an NOS regulator $$$$$$ so I want the generator to match. It's for a 1947 Dodge WC. I figure with everyone building street rods, or converting to 12 volts, the original parts should be available. I am a rare individual as I prefer 6volts. Bill
  3. Thanks for looking. I need an Auto-lite GEB-4801A. The search continues......
  4. Can you give me the Auto-lite numbers off the generator please? Thanks! Bill
  5. Just trying to be a "Purist" Ray! It would be time period correct. The setup I'm looking at has some parts missing and I don't know if I have the expertise to fabricate the missing parts. This setup was way ahead of it's time! (And it's used today) I joined the AACA so I could be pure...... Bill
  6. As a lover of old speed equipment there is always this option for the DB 4 cylinder guys! I have a chance to purchase one of these. Very cool! https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0mzgiie64kzqlyh/AABezOqMEKp2dF_bKQmntABqa?dl=0
  7. From what I remember you had 2 coupes? Glad to see you back! I have NEVER cried about my cars! (I kept all of them........)
  8. Matthew, These will answer some of your questions. It also should settle the engine color debate.
  9. Maybe a small "C" channel (1" wide x 1/4" tall) spot welded to one side of the hood underneath down the whole length to act like a rain gutter. Food for thought......
  10. Just to be clear DB26 I was referring to the cap over the gauge. It's very fragile.
  11. Yes. BE CAREFUL!!!! Use extreme care when trying to break it loose or it will bend out of shape. In old testament proportions there will be lots of broken glass and fire and brine stone! Use heat, PB Blaster, WD-40, and some Jim Beam might break it loose. (Jim Beam after it's broke loose) Let us know! Bill
  12. Go Here: It might explain some things....... Bill
  13. What nearchoclatetown is referring two is that some original valves had a cast iron head with a steel rod screwed into it.
  14. Yes. They are interchangeable. The McQuay-Norris part numbers are V-5 and V-5N. They were also available with 1/8" oversize heads.
  15. If I was 20 years younger I would have a mobile repair van loaded with tooling so I could machine valves, guides, and seats with the engine in place. If you need seats this can be done. Maybe find a local guy that can do this for you. Saves you a LOT of work!
  16. I love making comments and making more work for others so here goes: You might want to pull the oil pan and see what goodies are hiding in there! Bill
  17. If the groove is not in place then the "Load" of the spinning shaft would force out the lubrication. Then there would be a heat build up. Then the brass would seize onto the shaft. Brass loves to do this! Bill
  18. OK, you say it's only the passenger side. See if there are any differences between the drivers and passenger side hinges. Something doesn't sound right. Have you mounted the doors or did you purchase it that way? Bill
  19. I love the looks of the later model tourings like yours and the '26. Maybe in another life......
  20. Hello Mike! Have you added up the dollars in yours yet? I kept track until I hit $8K. I don't keep track anymore. Seems like a nice car for the money. Is the rear window correct? Bill
  21. Relax Ray. Have a new seat installed. It's only 4:1 compression. Everything will be fine.
  22. Good luck Rogillio! I know you put a lot of work into that coupe and wish I had the dollars to purchase yours. It would be a lot cheaper than doing mine! I wish you all the best! Bill
×
×
  • Create New...