19tom40

The 1934 Convertible Cabriolet came with your choice of leather or Bedford Cord upholstery. The standard rumble seat had imitation leather covering. Here is a link to the brochure ww.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Ford/1934 Ford/1934 Ford Full Line Brochure/image6.html

IMHO when you replace the left axle, you should go through the whole assembly and replace the inner seals and repair both of the housings. Then you are good for many miles of trouble free driving. What does the right side axle and housing look like?

there are several of them for sale on E-Bay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-1952-F-1-cast-bell-housing-w-correct-starter-plate/263421159610?hash=item3d551fe8ba:g:a1cAAOSwZoZaT4V-&vxp=mtr

I have seen sleeves for the Model A axle. They are supposed to shim the axle so that the drum will not rub on the backing plate. The axle in your photo is an accident waiting to happen. I don't know anyone that sells a rebuilt rear end for a Lincoln. I would check with the LZOC Technical Sources. What year is your car?

The repair sleeve is made to repair the wheel bearing inner race, which is the axle housing. The PO bought one that did not hold up. The hub bearing rides on the axle housing and if they were not greased regularly, the bottom side of the housing wore and the hub moved up and down flexing the axle. When the housing became worn enough, it flexed the axle enough that it broke. The result if you were lucky, is that the car would not move. Quite often the wheel would move out, damage the fender, leave the car and then the driver could lose control of the car causing severe damage to the car, driver and passengers. You will have to have a new sleeve installed. I would call John Connolly at Columbia Two Speed Parts and discuss the situation with him. He can tell you how to determine if the axle housing can be sleeved again. He sells a sleeve that will last as long as you own the car and keep the bearings greased. I would not buy any other sleeve from anyone. I had two of his sleeves installed on my Mercury 40,000 miles ago and the surface still looks like new. http://www.columbiatwospeedparts.com/index.cfm The axle movement is probably normal, but I would start searching for a new axle. The area near the housing is worn and could lead to a break. If the axle breaks there, the wheel could move out and destroy the fender and skirt. If it moves far enough, you could lose the wheel and do major damage to the car. You should also look for U.S.A. made wheel bearings as yours may have been damaged by the metal filings from the sleeve. You may also have to replace the outer race in the hub if it was damaged. John may be able to tell you where to get the bearings. You will have to disassemble the rear end to remove the axles and to sleeve the housings. John also sells quality gasket sets for this. You might also want to check the pins in the sleeve that holds the drive shaft to the pinion gear, while you have it apart. Some times it is easier to find a complete differential than just axles. You probably would have to sleeve any that you bought. Examine any axle(s) for a smooth taper and do not buy one that does not have that smooth taper. A worn taper like your axle shows, will result in the hub not being tight enough on the axle. This can cause the key way to wear and result in a broken axle. Once you have the housing repaired, grease your rear axle bearings with Sta Lube CRC SL3131 Heavy Duty Drum Brake Grease at least every 6,000 miles. I would check the condition of the grease and seal https://www.amazon.com/CRC-SL3131-Heavy-Bearing-Grease/dp/B000CPJMYI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1515374661&sr=8-5&keywords=crc+wheel+bearing+grease NAPA also can order the grease for you, if they do not have it in stock. I am sorry that I have to start off the new year with such bad news, but look on the bright side, you found the problem before the axle broke and caused damage.

Do you have the engine back in the car yet?

Thank you for the compliment. Your posts are also a joy to read. I enjoy the photos that you post. I enjoy seeing these cars go down the road and hate to see them on trailers. I was very disappointed at Lincoln meets that I have attended to see so many trailers, but with traffic the way it is these days, I may soon have to stop driving my cars. When that happens, they will be for sale, because I refuse to buy a trailer. There were some nice driving tours at the last 2 Homecomings and the Golden Anniversary of the LZ Club's Homecoming has a nice driving tour from Auburn, IN to Hickory Corners. I hope that you can enjoy the Tour with your car. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all.

I am sorry but I do not have the specifications for the LZ economizer valve referenced in 6the Service letter. The 78-9904 valve opened around 8.5-9 inches of vacuum. That was supposed to occur at a steady speed of 3800 RPM or sooner under load. The Ford spec for the 59A carburetor is for the valve to open at 6.5 -7 inches of vacuum. The 5.5 power valve opens around 5.5 - 6 inches of vacuum. The current fuel with 10% Ethanol seems to work better with the 5.5 valve than with the 6.5 valve. Also, I have found that the 10% Ethanol fuel requires the float level to be set 1/32" to 1/16" lower than specifications. The Zephyr setting is already 1/16" lower than the Ford setting, so it may be OK. The top gasket seems to be just about the correct thickness under the gauge. Check it by looking down the throat of the carburetor, while the engine is idling. There should be no fuel coming out of the main jets. If there is, either the power valve gasket is leaking or the float level needs to be lowered. I machined a Go / No Go gauge as shown in the attachment out of 1/2" wide aluminum stock and use it for setting the float. The 1/2" wide piece insures that my unsteady hands can hold the gauge perpendicular to the carburetor air horn and float. If you make your own gauge for the LZ, you could add .0625 to both dimensions on the gauge, so GO would be 1.4175" and NO GO wold be 1.3845 All of these adjustments work best when the idle speed is set to specs. On the V-8 cars, I hook my tach to the condenser tab on the coil. I am not sure where you would get an accurate reading on the dual coil used on the LZ. You can set this speed by using a 3/32" wide pieces of shim stock, .006 as the GO and .010 as the NO GO. Measure between the throttle plates and the body of the base where the plates close off the opening. adjust the idle speed screw to get this setting. The Fords seem to idle better at .010". I hope that this helps you out. If the setting that I use do not solve your problems, experiment by making small changes in them.

DSpringer, a weaker spring will allow the power valve to stay closed longer. I like the 5.5 power valve. It is held closed until the vacuum drops to around 6 inches. The main cause of the 91-99 carburetor running rich is leaking past the power valve gasket. This can also cause surging and hard starting. Another common cause is a poor seal at the bowl to base. Over tightening distorts the sealing surface and then it leaks vacuum. Glue some sandpaper to a piece of glass and slide the bowl without the power valve installed, the 3 attachment points should show the same scratch pattern. Charlie Schwendler in NY can machine the bowl for a good seal. The way that I install the power valve is to use the gasket with the triangle cutout ( as shown in Mssr. Bwatoe post) and hand tighten it, then tighten an additional 1/6 turn. Then add gas to the bowl until it covers the plunger on the power valve(easy way to see if gas leaks) and let it sit for 12 hours or more. If there is less gas in the bowl after sitting, I tighten another 1/6 turn and repeat the test. Repeat the procedure until the gas does not leak past he gasket. This procedure makes sure the gasket is tight enough and not so tight that the gasket cannot seal.

I find that the carb kits sold by Daytona Parts Co. are superior to the NAPA kits. The power valves in the NAPA kits vary way too much from the 5.5 -6.5 opening vacuum giving a rich mixture, The other parts are also good quality. https://www.daytonaparts.com/

If there are a lot of fumes coming from the breather, you need to find out why. In addition to worn rings, sludge in the engine could be blocking the air flow. The breather is supposed to be the intake and the exhaust of the fumes is supposed to be in the oil pan. The air flow is into the breather across the valve valley down the breather tube at the front of the engine and out the air slots in the road draft portion of the oil pan. Those slots must be kept clean and open. The breather must also be kept clean. A PCV may help for a while, but IMHO I would find the reason for the fumes and repair it. Be aware that the one piece valves and guides will control oil consumption better than the split guide, but they are more prone to sticking with the Ethanol enhanced fuel. If you go to these valve and guides, you should use an upper cylinder lube in the fuel. MMO works very well in the specified amount. Too much will give you performance problems.

Those letters are precious. The Early Ford V-8 Foundation Museum in Auburn, IN has a collection of Ford and Mercury letters and I am sure that they would be glad to preserve those for you in their library.

There are more than 1 streamline trains in the Chicago area. go to the links provided for more info. https://www.msichicago.org/explore/whats-here/exhibits/all-aboard-the-pioneer-zephyr/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pioneer_Zephyr I rode on a Burlington streamliner in 1945 from Chicago to Minneapolis. The next year we rode on the Hiawatha on the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific to the Twin Cities. The Hiawatha was a much more comfortable ride and the view from the club car was much better.

Contact one of the Early Ford V-8 Club of America Regional Groups near you. They should be able to recommend a good source. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Regional_Club_Directory.cfm

X2, congratulations.

Here is the procedure from the 1952 Lincoln service manual: Oil Bath Air Cleaner Check-Clean oil Filter before dirt has reached shelf. Wash in kerosene and drain. Lubricant-Engine Oil S.A E 50 temperature above +32 F. S.A.E. 20 temperature below +32 Capacity- 1pint Fill to level as indicated air cleaner

Thanks for the fall color tour. What part of the country is that?

Lebaron-Bonney makes a boot for your car. Here is a link to a photo I found on the internet https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0117-277624/1941-ford-super-deluxe-convertible/

Yes, the number should be stamped near the driver's side water pump on the frame rail. It is also stamped on the transmission bell housing just like a Ford.

I tried to find the frame stamping on my 53 Lincoln and could not see it. It is supposed to be just behind the right upper control arm. On my car half of the frame is covered by the inner fender and the starter solenoid covers the rest. The car is up on jack stands for the winter, so I cannot get to the battery box to see if the number is stamped on the frame in front of it. There is no number stamped on the original engine. You may have to remove the right front fender to see it. I checked with other Road Race Lincoln owners and they said if the frame was stamped it would be on the passenger side frame rail in the engine compartment. One reply was that some frames were not stamped.

Looks like a 1954 or 1955 Ford engine with the teapot carburetor.

Welcome to the Land of Lincolns. While you are certainly welcome here and some of your questions may be answered here, most of the 1960 - 2000 owners spend their time on the http://www.thelincolnforum.net/ Congratulations on your purchase of a Town Car. They are great road cars.

Ryan, did this procedure work for you?

This is from the 1949-1951 Overhaul Manual. I am not sure if this will be the correct procedure for your 47, but it should be similar. Flush the hydraulic system each fall by: Lower all windows Move seat to rear position (it doesn't mention the top, but you should probably lower it also) Remove the ground cable from the battery Remove fluid reservoir from power unit, empty reservoir and clean it with alcohol Refill to the fluid level marker and install it Connect the ground cable Operate seat and windows several times to remove air from the system Lower all windows and move the seat to the rear position and check the fluid level.

My reference material only shows the wheel colors for the cars. You may be able to find Commercial Vehicle colors in the 1932 Ford Book available from the Early ford V-8 Club's website. People interested in restoring 1932 Fords have praised the book. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Shop.cfm?id=2 You could also ask the question on the Early Ford V-8 Club's Forum about 1932 Fords. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewtopics.cfm?Forum=19