Jump to content

german37zephyr

Members
  • Posts

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by german37zephyr

  1. So after the winter, I got back to the problem. It was still there. Now I did a valve lash adjusting job (valves where too tight!) and that helped a lot! It seems, I lost compression when the engine warmed up. I also reset the distributor and now the problem is nearly gone. Nearly means: If the car has been running for way more than 30 minutes I still get a little hesitation when accelerating from ca. 50mph, but I can live with it, since driving that fast isn't what the car is meant for... So there still has to be a minor problem with the whole system. The coil resistance differs between the two: one is 5 kOhm the other 8 kOhm? Its a 6 Volt original. Thanks again for all your inputs on this.
  2. Hi again, THANK YOU SOO MUCH FOR THE IDEAS! It looks like eduzit is right on! I think it was the in line fuel filter that made a little too much vacuum. I moved it from before the fuel pump to between fuel pump and carb. Let's see, if that's the fix. I will let you know! So thanks again for these great infos! Kay.
  3. Hi, I've been having trouble lately with a strange problem: My 1937 Zephyr starts and idles great. So I'm driving for maybe 30 Minutes, no problem. When I stop and turn ignition off, wait a couple of minutes (e.g. getting some go-juice) the car behaves different: It surges and stutters under load in 2nd and 3rd gear, idle is fine, cruising at constant speed up to 45 mph is fine. This condition stays. When I start it up the next day or so, it's fine again. This is a constant problem, and it doesn't matter too much, how long the first drive is (15 Minutes already generates the problem). So I guess it's heating up problem, but what could it be? I have checked fuel delivery, changed carb. Playing with the choke doesn't change the condition. One of the carbs is brandnew (One of speedway motors 9 super 7 thingies), the other one is stock Holley. Anyone ever had such a problem? I'm out of ideas by now... Thanks in advance for any suggestions! Kay in Germany.
  4. Well, I think I overdid it a little, I'm using this: Voltage Reducer Regulator 12 VOLTS to 6 VOLTS 20 AMPS:eBay Motors (item 130344162306 end time Nov-19-09 11:21:21 PST) It gives you constant 6.something volts. I'm planning to get my radio restored still and with this regulator I have enough power to run it... It's not the cheapest but a nice solution.
  5. I got my Zephyr checked out by the German TÜV for road certification and it passed. So I guess I'm allowed to go 95 mph. I would never do so, but I feel save enough to go on the normal roads and drive within regular traffic. My thought about the safety on those cars is, that people see you look at you and run into a tree or something... No, but seriously, the problem with those cars and safety are, that you are not safe in them because of the stiff body and the nice thin steering wheel, no belts, no airbags, ... And the other drivers on the roads aren't safe, because if you hit them their cars get smashed pretty bad... Btw. I'm 32.
  6. Hi Bwatoe, yep, 15 mpg, that's roughly what I'm getting here in Germany's traffic out of my 37 w/o OD. I guess it's way less on a constant highway ride.
  7. Hi Peecher, thanks. I'll be using green 140 oil. Yep, I sealed them yesterday using the incredible loctite 680 bearing sealant. Let's see, how it works. I won't be driving in frosty weather anyway since we don't get that kind of weather here in northern Germany. I'll post, if it worked! Kay.
  8. Hi Peecher and CBoz, thanks for your reply, yepp, the counter shaft and reverse shaft are the problem. I will try the sealer method for now. Can I go with thicker oil? Kay.
  9. Hi all, after all the rebuilding not only did I have a leak on the engines rear end (oil pump cover) which is easy to fix (got the tranny back out... No, my bigger concern is, that the tranny is leaking out front and back through those shafts, that have no seal at all. It's not too much but I don't like that. I'm having 90 oil in it now. Can I go to a thicker oil (e.g. 140)? Or is there an easy way to cover up those leaking shafts? It would be nice to do something now, since I have the tranny back out. Any help is really appreciated, since I have to get the car certified for the road and when I go there, they don't like stuff dripping. Thanks in advance, Kay.
  10. Hi CBoz, what a beauty!! Picture size doesn't matter at all! It seems, when I look closely, that on that coupe the distance between door and frame is way more, than I have. So I guess I'll stick to the hinge idea. Anyone else had that trouble? Kay.
  11. CBoz, thanks for your reply, PEEP mirror, thats what I tryed, but I just don't get enough clearance between the door an the cars frame, when closing the door. What's the one on the picture, I guess that is a peep mirror? And it's on a coupe, so the center post isn't that far out like it is on the 4 door. Thanks again, Kay.
  12. Hi all, I need to have a driver side mirror on my 37 Zephyr 4 door for road certification. I tried to use those door edge ones, but that all to tight between door and frame. Should I use a door hinge type mirror? And if yes, which one is the best and is hanging out enough so I can see around the center door post? And finally, how do I get the pin out of the door hinge, when I forgot to figure the mirror thing out before the paint-job? Thanks for all support. Kay.
  13. Hi all, I went outside for "Say Cheese" too. Here is the result. Mine is still not done yet, interior is in progress. And I didn't de-dust it yet, but the my town car does look pretty small next to the zephyr, doesn't it?
  14. Hi all, I'm trying to find just one interior door handle and escuch... (I forgot how to write that word) for my 1937 4D sedan. Anyone has a set left over? Thanks in advance, Kay.
  15. I planed to use new valve springs anyway, so I cut the valve springs with one of those thin discs on a small angle grinder, which loosens everything up a bit.
  16. Well, I guess I should answer it myself: I ordered the 38/39 rear quarter window rubber from narragensett-reproductions and they fit! no cutting involved! So I guess those rubbers can be named 36-39 rear quarter window rubber.
  17. Hi Peecher, thanks for the reply, I just talked to a tach-repair-shop here in Germany. I'll send it to them, since I didn't find any way of adjusting the spring. They might be able to fix it. Lets see... Kay.
  18. Hi all, anyone has an idea, why my speedometer shows the right milage but the wrong speed? If I'm turning the cable at a speed that gives me 0.1 miles per 10 seconds, which would be 0.6 miles per minutes = 36 mph the needle only shows ca. 15-20 mph. Is there a way to fix that? Thanks in advance for any help on this new task, Kay
  19. Jippiiee!!! I took another very intense look around the engine using a dental mirror to look everywhere and I found it! The number RF386 is stamped into the engine block on the passenger side right next to the water pump! So it seems to be the engine number. So that way I can proof that the title belongs to the car!! Anyone else has a number there? So thanks again for your support! Kay.
  20. CBoz, thanks for your idea. I got the "Lincoln and Continental Classic Motorcars" book in the mail today, which has the appendix with all the numbers. That should do it (i hope). But if not, I'll be back... Thanks to all, Kay
  21. Hi, I heard that it may be possible to use the rubber for a 38/39 rear quarter window for the 37 with some modifications? Anyone did that and can tell me, how that works? Thanks in advance, Kay.
  22. Its from the US, so no royal fleet, but thanks for the idea. I'm guessing right now, that the number was made up, because nobody knew where to look. So no progress still...
  23. Nope, no numbers there. Still looking. Thanks, Kay.
  24. Nope, it's not the body number. Checked that. For Import they used the wrong number too. Nobody checked it! I called the customs today and asked them if they check vin-numbers and they said "occasionally". So I'm still searching. Thanks so far, Kay.
  25. Hi all, my restoration is getting to its end soon, and now the trouble starts. In order to get the car on the road here in Germany, I need the the US Title and a bunch of other papers. My problem is, that the title I got says 37 Linc, which is ok. But the vin number on that title is RF368. Since the real number is H25189, the office will say "no, that´s not the title to your car!" Does anyone have any idea, where RF368 can come from? Maybe a casting number or something? Any spots on the car where I could find such a number to proof "See, that´s the number they took and this is the real number"? Any help is appreciated! Kay
×
×
  • Create New...