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About Riviator

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  1. OK, I'm going to get some flack on this - I've owned my '63 for thirteen years and it always had a voltage issue. I've been though several alternators, several regulators, cleaned every electric connection I could find, but I could never get rid of the "dippy" headlights and courtesy lights. Frustrated, I ordered a new, not rebuilt, Powermaster 1-wire alternator and the appropriate adapter kit. Not being real knowledgable in this area, I reluctantly got rid of the voltage regulator, swapped out the pulley, attached the adapter plug, then replaced the main wire to the horn relay with an 8ga wire. Best improvement I've ever made to the car. No more dippy lights! Not original, but... IT WORKS GREAT!
  2. Years ago, I sent my aluminum off to be restored by a reputable refinisher. They claimed they could do it. Major disaster. They did refund my money immediately. Since then, I've been able to find pieces/panels on ebay and got it all put back together. I also found the Formica on their site. I ordered a sample and it looked pretty good, but did not want to buy a 4x8 sheet. And Formica is not the easiest material in the world to work with. I did see the Formica 4749 in a restroom of a cruise ship and thought about how I could rip a piece off the wall. Good sense prevailed, so I scratched the rip off plan and making due with what I've got.
  3. The guy told me he's turning them in to a booth style dinette with a table between. I can't remember how much this "artwork" was going to cost, but I do remember it was a lot more than a nice "driver".
  4. I found this in an artist's studio in Wilmington, NC. It's the same car coming and going, so to speak.
  5. I added Old Air products Hurricane system, cool only, and left the heater pretty much alone, except for the valve. It sits behind the glovebox, and has two control knobs under the dash, and used stock louvers. Since my mom had a '63 when I was a little kid, I always loved the sliding controls, so I had to make sure they worked. I also liked the green "cold" light, but that went by the wayside when the temperature gauge went in.
  6. Those brackets hold on the original cable operated heater valve which in the picture has been replaced by a manual valve. The original valve is nearly impossible to find being a one year only part. If you find one, it's either excessively expensive or rotted out. I plugged the holes in the duct housing with some snap in metal plugs and now use an electronic heater valve I bought from Vintage Air. I hid the control knob under the dash. Not authentic, but it works. I tried another type of cable operated valve and couldn't get it to work right. It was the right way to go removing the console. Mine was hacked out from the engine side long ago. A big mess. When I replaced the core, I had to fabricate a metal gasket to cover up where someone went nuts with what looked like a saws-all. As far as a sealant goes, I used 3M rope caulk. I hope this information helps. Good luck!
  7. My '63 was sold to me with an Edelbrock twelve years ago. I replaced it a couple of years ago with the next larger model and had no problem with the replacement. Some purists don't like the idea, but for someone with little carb experience, it was a painless exchange. And, on mine anyway, the kick-down works just fine. Maybe because the previous owner did it right the first time, I just don't know. I've been pleased with the new carb and would do the same again.
  8. CRC Octane Boost with Lead Substitute. More for the valve/valve seat protection than any thing else.
  9. I bought my '63 eleven years ago with 48K original miles. The guy I bought it from told me he always used lead additive along with the highest octane gas available. Now at 63K trouble free miles, some ask if the added lead substitute is really necessary. Is the extra five dollars, or so, per tank good insurance, or just a waste of money? Curious to hear some thoughts. The only downside I've found is my plugs get a little funky.
  10. Thanks for the information. I'll give that a try when I get a chance.
  11. I purchased my '63 with a 401 ten years ago with a re-manufactured Edelbrock 1406 which is a 650 cfm. I recently replaced it with a new Edelbrock 1411 750 cfm. I read somewhere that a nailhead will take as much air as you can give it. The 1411 seems to be fine, although with the crummy winter weather I have not been able to do the fine tuning. But as stated, it did run just out of the box. Hope this helps. I know purists balk at not using an original, but my car is hardly a show car, just a really good driver, and it was just a whole lot easier getting one that was new in the box and ready to go.
  12. I've had a '63 with tilt wheel for ten years now, and I've never been able to tilt the wheel other than straight out without having the turn signals act up. When I bought the car, in a box of spare parts, was an extra switch which leads me to believe it's been replaced, but with nothing to compare it to, I have no clue if it the right one. Any thoughts on how to correctly adjust/align the turn signal switch? Thanks.
  13. My '63 came to me ten years ago with a remanufactured Edelbrock 1406 carburetor. I've wanted to replace it, but I'm getting conflicting reports of Edelbrock vs. Holley. I obviously know the Edelbrock fits, but I've been told I might be happier with a Holley. I've gotten conflicting reports from Holley tech support whether it will fit on the 401. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
  14. About three years ago, I purchased floors from Classic Fabrication and had no particular problem. The hard part was find a shop who was willing to install them. Once I found someone, they cost a fortune. The only difficulty the installer had was fabricating replacements for the braces that were rusty. Another excuse to up the price. If there was a problem with the quality or the fit, I'm sure I would have heard about it. And paid for it. Overall, I was pleased with Classic.