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BigDan

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Everything posted by BigDan

  1. I'm interested in the spark plug covers if they're still available.
  2. Got them off and replaced by using heat on the frozen links. Thanks to all who offered advice and suggestions. No more rattle ! Dan
  3. Could be U-joint or pinion bearing in rear end.
  4. Thanks, Pete. I'm concerned about getting the old links off. I don't think they're going to come off easily. Should I get a puller and if so can you recommend one? Thanks again. Dan
  5. I'm getting ready to replace the rear shock links on my '55 Buick Special. I haven't done this before and was wondering what problems I might encounter and how to avoid them. Thanks for any tips or advice. Dan
  6. Got the car back Thursday with new transmission mount and thrust pad from Bob's Automobilia. The old ones were literally falling apart. However, I've felt and heard the clunk twice in maybe 30 or 40 stops since getting the car back. My mechanic thinks it might be coming from the pinion bearing and is pretty sure it's in the rear end somewhere. Thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions.
  7. I previously wrote that," I raised the rear end and turned the right side wheel with the selector in park..." I meant drive not park. I got under the car today at Precision Tune and the one thing that was obviously bad was the sad shape of the transmission pad. It is cracked and crumbly. I broke a little piece of the rubber off in my hand. It will be replaced soon and maybe that will cure my problem. I made several stops again today, no clunks. Car got a good grease job and all 4 wheels pulled. Brakes were like new. Also had front wheel bearings packed. Differential lube was right where it should be so at least nothing's running back there through the torque tube. Front end components all looked good and there was no excessive movement when front tires were grasped and rocked. All seemed normal. Thanks for looking, keep those thoughts coming. Dan
  8. Thanks guys. I have a shop manual and will take it along. I raised the car's rear end and turned the right side wheel with the selector in park. No unusual noises, everything seemed normal. This was a few days back. I'll definitely post here as I go along. My mechanic works on lots of older cars but I'm sure he will benefit from the knowledge available here and I'll pass along anything you fellows care to offer. Tomorrow I'm having the car serviced, Oil, filter and lube, front wheel bearings packed and brakes inspected and adjusted. I can have a good look around while it's on the rack. This is just at Precision Tune. It goes to the collector car specialist on Friday. Thanks, Dan
  9. Thanks guys and I will definitely check out the ball joints. I hadn't even considered them, just assumed the problem was in the drive line. Dan
  10. Just drove the car about 12 miles, 20 minutes, around town. 15 or 20 stops,. First stop I made, clunk, just like before and then no more clunks for at least 15 stops. Everything was as it should be. Most of them were normal rolling up to stop sign type stops, some a little harder but no panic stops. Most in drive but I did several in low, no clunks. Downshifted to low then stopped no clunks. Upshifted to drive then stopped, no clunks. took off in low, no clunks. etc. Nothing over 55 mph. Only the very first stop clunked. Did it cure itself? Undoubtedly not. My theory is that a motor or transmission mount, slippery from oil or fluid leak, slipped back into place. Car goes to shop Friday 8th. Thanks to Beemon and anyone else for your thoughts. Any comments or suggestions are welcome and appreciated. Dan
  11. One of the replies to my previous post which I accidentally deleted was about a pumpkin something or other and that's the one thing I didn't make a note of. I think it was Willie or Pete. if you see this could you please refresh my memory about your comment so I can mention it to my mechanic when I take the car in. Thanks, Dan
  12. I just deleted my earlier thread by trying to delete a picture of a Garmin GPS I'm selling on Ebay. Why was it there? I can only say (sheepishly) that I'm responsible. I'm so D&^%#mn good with computers!! Thanks to Willie, Pete, Beeman, Tank and everybody else who offered advice and suggestions. Luckily I took a few notes the old-fashioned way and haven't lost any of your good counseling. I'm going to adjust the brakes adjust, get the wheels balanced and then I'll try driving her at various speeds and some hard braking to see if I can learn anything more. I jacked the rear end up and with the selector in drive, turned the passenger side rear wheel both ways and also tried to shove laterally a little as Tank suggested but nothing seemed unusual or Clunky. I'm taking the car to my mechanic April 8. I've explained the problem and he seems confident he can handle it. Thanks again guys and I'll let you know of any interesting developments. Now if anybody knows about computers..... Dan
  13. Can anyone point me to a Twin Cities shop that can repair/overhaul/replace a Dynaflow? It;s a '55 Special Riviera. Thanks, Dan
  14. My '55 Special Riviera 264 has a hand choke. Must be a conversion right? Anyone know what the last year for Buicks to have manual choke? Thanks, Dan
  15. Thanks Tank. I thought it must be the compression ratio but I didn't think it would make that much difference. You're probably right about the pistons and cam. 143 to 188 is a huge jump in hp with no change in displacement.
  16. I've noticed online that the horsepower listed for a '54 264 Buick Special is 143, but for a '55 it's 188. I thought they both had 2-bbl carburetors and single exhaust. What accounts for the difference? Thanks, Dan
  17. I need a sun visor, correct air cleaner, speedometer cable and trunk handle hardware for a '39 Silver Streak Six two-door. Any help or leads greatly appreciated. Prefer good used but woudl probably buy NOS also. Thanks much, Dan
  18. Thanks Jim, I'll give it a try and get back to you if I need a progammer. Dan
  19. We've had a cool April here in MN and I've needed to warm my '89 up a little from time to time. It's stored all winter so I normally don't have a need to use the heater. With climate control on, set at maximum heat and fan on auto, I get the blower but no warm air. I tried a lot of different combinations with the controls and once got it to blow very warm but I'm not sure what I did. Anyway, by following exactly the instructions in the owner's manual for heating the car, nothing happens but the blowing of unheated air. The car is in great shape, has 43000 miles, cruises at 195 Farenheit. Any suggestions welcome and thanks in advance. Dan Dan
  20. A new battery cured my ailing beauty. Now I have to decide what to do with the key/lock situation.
  21. Having car towed to an auto-electric specialty shop Mon. Thanks to all for your input. I'll post to let you know what happens.
  22. Thanks Ron. Cleaning the cables brought the dash to life and the lights pop up and back now but no starter. I also discovered that the ignition switch can be turned to any position without a key which makes me think I need a new one. Anyone ever hear of that happening. It shouldn't move without a key right? Thanks
  23. Lately I've noticed a slight hesitation in the starter engaging when I turn the key to start but it always kicked in in less than a second. This morning I took my hand off too soon - didn't crank quite long enough for the engine to start - and when I turned the key again to start the car the electrical system shut down; no lights, dash, nothing, completely dead. There is a faint sulphur smell under the hood. One battery cable seemed a little loose so I tightened it to no avail. I am thinking of trying to jump the car but I'm fairly sure the battery is OK. Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated. I'm hoping it's something loose or corroded somewhere. This is a sweet-running '89 coupe with 40000 miles. Thanks in advance for any replies. Dan
  24. BigDan

    Temperature

    Paggett' Thanks for the quick reply. The oil pressure is a steady 56lbs at 70mph on level road. It varies with the rpms. I'm not worried about the pressure, it seems though, that the diagnostic is getting a false reading when the crankcase is full and it tells me I'm low on oil. Dan
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