36humpback
-
Posts
187 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by 36humpback
-
-
Thanks to every one's help and advise. I tried the jumper wires to a headlight bulb, and it worked. Bulb came on and ammeter needle went to discharge side. I will try the one in the dash now. Hopefully I won't have to takeout the meter that's already in, as I will have to take the whole cluster out.
-
2 hours ago, Bloo said:
Well, since you have an external regulator, I don't think it will turn on and start charging. That's why I asked. I would disconnect the wire at the BAT terminal on the regulator. Hook the wire you took away from the BAT terminal of the regulator to one post of the ammeter. Hook the other ammeter post to the BAT terminal. That should work.
Thanks again. I don't have to hook up a wire from the generator to the ammeter?
-
54 minutes ago, Bloo said:
That should work.
Yes, so the current has to go THROUGH the ammeter.
No. Don't ground it. A good ammeter is a dead short internally. They run with both sides hot.
The battery being used for the test must have the other post grounded to the car as normal.
I am making the bold assumptions that 1) the car's charge wiring is disconnected from the generator (tape it, it's hot). and 2) the cutout/regulator box is still on the generator, as it would be in a mid 30s Dodge, and you are connected to the cutout/regulator where the car's wiring would normally connect. I don't know how many amps you will get, but it should sure show you which direction is which.
Regarding item 2 above, I think I remember from some other thread that you have a newer generator? If so, you'd best tell us what you have, because if there is an external regulator box on the firewall you would have to turn the generator "on" by "full fielding" it. In that case a different hookup might be easier.
I do have a newer 2 wire 35 amp generator, and a firewall mounted voltage regulator. I had both tested (apart and together), and both work and are compatible. So if I'm reading it right I unhook the gen wire and use wire from post to ammeter. Wire from battery to other post and try it. Should I unhook wires to ammeter still in the truck? Thanks BLOO.
-
1
-
-
I have acquired a second amp gauge, and want to check it while not in the vehicle. I am assuming that a wire from the generator to one stud, and a wire from the battery to the other stud. Start engine and check at higher than idle speed. Is that correct? Would I have to ground the amp gauge somehow? Thanks in advance. Bob
-
1 hour ago, Bloo said:
Well... The fuseholder clouds the issue. There are two factors at work.
The first thing is that the ammeter indicates flow. With no accessories connected, if the ammeter reads backwards when the generator is charging the battery, it is connected backwards. Reverse the leads.
The second thing is the accessories. They need to be connected to the generator side of the ammeter. This can be via a fuse or not via a fuse. In this case a fuse was used, but that is not important. What is important is that any accessories connected to the battery side will draw current through the ammeter. Will the truck work like that? Yes. The trouble is that any current those accessories use registers as "charge". It makes the ammeter almost meaningless, because if the accessories draw more than the generator can supply, the battery will still go dead. You have no idea whether the battery is being charged or discharged. The ammeter would still go to the center if the generator quit entirely, so there's that I guess.
The wiring diagram posted shows the fuse and accessories connected to the generator side as normal. That was also true in Professor's 36 Chrysler thread. That is the left lower lug on the diagrams (with the whole gauge spun 90 degrees to the right). It is the "gen" and "bat" stampings on the web pic that appear wrong.
Yes. There's the rub.
If I understand that correctly, you have only the wire to the starter connected to one ammeter post, and the generator and anything else currently hooked up to the other ammeter post, and it shows a charge when revved, right? If so, it is working normally.
Never mind right or left. Is the fuse's brass strap connected to the same ammeter post that is connected to the generator right now? If so, it's all good.
The generator is hooked up to the lug on the right. (not to fused lug), and is working properly for charging.(going positive when revved up)
-
10 hours ago, Bloo said:
I believe those go on the fuse lug (based on the wiring diagram).
The fuse itself should be fed from the generator lug.
Mine and the pic both show fuse fed from left bottom lug. the web pic shows it as BAT. If I switch my wires on those two, wouldn't it show discharge instead of charge when revved up?
-
UPDATE I got the amp gauge to go to + side when engine is reved up. Yeah!! Now I have to figure out what terminals all the other wires go to. I have most everything else fastened to the generator lug. No headlights, or panel lights.
If I understand all the comments correctly, the following wires go on the top stud.
15,
18- ammeter to horn
24- ammeter to cab light swirch
29- ammeter to instrument light switch
32- ammeter to headlight switch
Any and all help appreciated. Thanks, Bob
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, TerryB said:
Is your voltage regulator just a cut-out relay mounted on or near the generator? My 1937 Dodge pickup had the cutout on the top of the generator, just a single wire output that was then connected to the (-) battery lug on the starter. From there a wire went to the ammeter fuse and then the other terminals on the ammeter fed the ignition switch, the light switch and so on. I think the reason for multiple terminals on the ammeter were to allow branching out the power (current) coming from the voltage regulator to the circuits that needed it rather than trying to tie all those together on a single terminal. Note- the 1937 Dodge ownership was a long time ago and I’m going off my hazy memory.
Voltage regulator mounted on the firewall.
-
1
-
-
29 minutes ago, Bloo said:
I think they are ignoring the fuse. Those are all things that would connect to the fused side of the fuse (top in the pic). "Starter Switch Bat." makes no sense. In fact it sounds like the starter/battery connection that does not connect here. "Bat on the VR" sounds right.
Yes. These should go to the ammeter terminal that is strapped to the unfused side of the fuse. Take a close look at yours. I think the ammeter picture from the internet might have the strap on the wrong post(?). Not sure about that.
Not sure if this should be on the fuse or not. If yes it goes on top with all the other accessories. If not, it goes on the ammeter post with the VR wire, the ignition switch wire, and the fuse strap.
The other remaining ammeter terminal connects to the wire to the starter cable.
Thanks again for all the info Bloo. Hopefully my last an maybe unnecessary question. The fuse protects all the wires on the top post? That's what I am thinking since power is coming from bottom. I do have a two wire generator with a voltage regulator.
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, 36humpback said:
Thanks for the additional info, The pic is one I got of the interweb. I'll contort my aged body today and see what the back of mine looks like. It is still a 6 volt, but I do have a newer generator installed.
Ok... Here is what the instructions I have for the wiring harness say:
# 15 ammeter (same terminal as wire # 18, 24, 29, 32) to starter switch "BAT"
#16 VR "bat" to ammeter
#18 Ammeter to horn
#24 Ammeter to cab light switch
#29 Ammeter to instrument light switch
#31 ammeter(same terminal as wire #16 to ignition switch
#32 ammeter( same terminal as wire # 15, 18,24,29) to headlight switch (bat)
#52 ammeter to heater switch
The back of my ammeter is the same as the pic I got off the interweb, except there are no gen or bat markings on it.
With these instructions, can you tell me what wires go where? I assume that "accessories" go to the top above the fuse. My big question is #15, 18, 24, ,29, and 32 to starter switch bat. does that mean the bat on the VR?, and they all go on the bottom right stud? Thanks.
-
40 minutes ago, TerryB said:
You mentioned alternator and voltage regulator, has you replaced the stock generator and cut out relay? With the meter showing discharge with the headlights on would indicate the wiring is somewhat correct, especially if this happens at idle.
I meant to type generator not alternator.
-
1
-
-
24 minutes ago, Bloo said:
Wait what? Is it not 6v positive ground anymore? If true, that would have been good to know. It would explain why things are all backwards in the other thread.
https://forums.aaca.org/topic/412600-help-wiring-back-of-amp-gauge/
Thanks for the additional info, The pic is one I got of the interweb. I'll contort my aged body today and see what the back of mine looks like. It is still a 6 volt, but I do have a newer generator installed.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, Bloo said:
There is a 36 Chrysler thread by @Professor where the ammeter was discussed. Ammeter conversation starts near the bottom of page 8 and continues on page 9. There are some pics of the back of an ammeter.
https://forums.aaca.org/topic/344725-1936-chrysler-airstream-c-8-convertible-restoration/page/8/
More or less, a wire comes from the generator and feeds the (+) ammeter terminal. The ignition switch and the fuseholder are fed from this (+) terminal. On the fused (opposite) side of the fuseholder the stoplight, light switch, and dome light are connected. The remaining terminal (ammeter - ) feeds the wire to the battery (via the starter post) and the cigarette lighter if there is one.
Thanks BLOO for the info. Attached is a pic of the back of the amp gauge. I figure the + terminal is the one on the bottom right and says gen below it. The one on the bottom left says BAT. What, how, hooks up to it? The rest of the wires hook up on the other side of the fuse?
-
I'm having trouble wiring up the back of the ammeter on my 36 Dodge panel. The wiring diagram is so grainy that I can't tell what wire goes where. There are three studs on the back. One above the the fuse and two below. the attached pic shows a stud next to fuse. Is this the one above the fuse on my ammeter? With engine running the ammeter does not show charging, but when I turn on the headlights it shows a discharge. Both alternator and Voltage regulator were recently check and both are good. I just need an explanation of what/how many wires go where. I think I might have some wires on wrong studs. The letter U is the amp gauge. Also a pic of the back of the amp gauge. Thanks in advance.
-
I'm having trouble wiring up the back of the ammeter on my 36 Dodge panel. The wiring diagram is so grainy that I can't tell what wire goes where. There are three studs on the back. One above the the fuse and two below. the attached pic shows a stud next to fuse. Is this the one above the fuse on my ammeter? With engine running the ammeter does not show charging, but when I turn on the headlights it shows a discharge. Both alternator and Voltage regulator were recently check and both are good. I just need an explanation of what/how many wires go where. I think I might have some wires on wrong studs. The letter U is the amp gauge. Thanks in advance.
-
Looks like a Portland Trailblazers logo.
-
Thank you everyone for the info. Regular gas Will be a lot cheaper. Bob
-
18 hours ago, ply33 said:
Having an higher octane than required should not damage the engine. The main thing it will do is lighten your wallet.
The L-6 engines used in Chrysler product cars all had hardened exhaust valve inserts from the factory and do not need leaded gas. As a rule of thumb, the octane required is often the same as the compression ratio, so your pre-WW2 car the cheapest, lowest octane gas you can find at a normal gas station is more than good enough.
If the rubber components in your fuel system are really, really old (like before 1990) then they may be damaged by some of the additives in modern gas. You can get rebuild kits compatible with modern gas for your fuel pump and you can replace the flex hose to the fuel pump. Some carburetor kits had rubber tips on the float valve, if your car had that then you will want to replace that too. But if the car has been driven at all regularly in the last 20 or 30 years these things have probably already been taken care of.
Basically, buy the cheapest gas you can find and drive the car.
Thanks for the input. In rebuilding my panel I had the fuel tank cleaned and coated. All new fuel lines (steel and rubber). I don't know if the carb (bxov-2) and fuel pump are compatible with newer fuel, as the person I bought the rebuilt engine from passed away not long after I bought the engine (20+ years ago). After all the prep work on the engine it started right up after the fuel got up to the carb. No other feeling like starting it for the first time.
-
I finally got my engine running. I put VP 110 racing gas in it as it is supposedly leaded gas. It has an octane rating of 107. Will it hurt my engine? Should I go to regular gas and add "lead additives"? Any help would be appreciated. Bob
-
8 hours ago, TheMoneyPit said:
With what looks like a solenoid and linkage to the horn tube it could be an aftermarket “Tally-Ho” horn of some sort. Have you tried working it and seeing what it sounds like?
It's not mine. Saw it on a local site.
-
Nobody knows?
-
I found this on a site. I have never seen one in this configuration. What did it fit? Is it an aftermarket? Thanks in advance. Bob
-
3
-
-
I think it would depend on year and make of the car.
-
When I have posted there have been times I have not received notices that someone has responded. How can I access my posts without scrolling down to the approximate date I listed one? Thanks. Bob
bob
37 half ton brake line routing front.
in Dodge Trucks
Posted
If it is the same as a 36 This a pic from the front that shows where it goes.