• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jeff_Miller

  1. My 1936 Special had virtually no weather striping in it when I got it and now that I’m rebuilding all the windows I’m not sure how it all goes together. Using the catalog I ordered up a bunch of parts and began to install them. The window channel is obvious and I figured out most of the vent and divider parts but I can’t seem to make sense of the sweeper (WS-330) and clips to put them on (SC-330). The clip looks like the pointed ends should be pounded into the wood like a nail but the hoop on the other side is not shaped like the sweeper at all. Do I bend the hoop to make it fit the sweeper? Another thought would be to think of the hoop as something that would normally get inserted into a hole like more modern trim parts and that the pointed parts might actually get inserted into the sweeper but that doesn’t seem right. Any other ideas? Re the vent/divider: lots of fidgeting with this to make things mostly line up. It seems I have to trim off some of the stainless trim of the channel where it meats up with the door in order to get the divider close enough to the outside of the door so that the vent window will close on it properly. However, when I do this, I still see no way to address the middle area of the divider. It may have had more metal on it at one point or perhaps there is another part that I am missing but there really seems like there should be some additional seal here even though I can’t find one in my parts catalogs or in the buick shop manual I have. Another question is the rest of the door area at the bottom of the class. Unlike modern cars, there doesn’t appear to be any kind of rubber seal for this area. Is this space covered by the sweeper only? Thanks, Jeff
  2. Does anybody know of a good/easy way to change out the grill on a 1936 special without removing the radiator? It looks like I can remove the diverter from below to get access from underneath but I don't think I'll be able to reach the upper bolts from there. To gain access to the upper bolts looks like I will need to remove the radiator - ugh.. I can't just tilt the radiator back because it looks like it will hit the fan. That seems to indicate that I would need to remove the hood, remove the radiator bars, remove all bolts on the radiator, and then hopefully the cowl will pivot forward enough that I can pull the radiator up and out of the way. Am I missing something or does anybody know of a better way? Thanks, Jeff
  3. Greg, Thanks for the quick response and excellant photos. The guy I bought the car from had paid somebody to replace the differential and axels and I bet they didn't replace the old seals when they were doing it. I did a quick look on line and I can find parts for a '37 but nothing for a '36. I'll be taking it apart tomorrow morning and then come up with a plan after seeing what is happening. Jeff
  4. Ooops, I meant to say rear "brake" cylinders in the first post.
  5. After rebuilding the rear master cylinders on my 36 special I was quite disappointed to see fluid under the tires. I assumed I had screwed up putting the thing back together but after tearing it apart again it appears that the fluid is not brake fluid. It looks to me like there is fluid coming from the rear axel into the wheel area. I imagine there must be some sort of seal in the rear axel but I don't have any detailed info on where it might be. Is this likely to be something on the wheel end of the axel and as such something that can be repaired without pulling the axel? Is this something that I should call in the professionals for? Jeff
  6. In addition to the coker tire on the left, you may also want to check out diamondback I have no experience but I intend to swap out tires this winter and I was leaning toward diamondbacks and I would certainly be interested in any feedback you may have. Jeff
  7. The new 36 Special arrived with leaky rear wheel brake cylinders so I went to rebuild them before putting any miles on. It took three days of struggling with the drums because one had the parking brake still activated and the other seemed oblong or warped and wouldn't come over the hub portion of the axel. I replaced all rubber and honed the cylinders even though the both looked pretty good. The only thing odd was that they were 1 1/16 instead of 1" so something got switched. Things looked good for a couple of days but when I went for a ride yesterday I returned with the same leaks all over again. Another issue is that when I applied the brakes very hard there was a very distinctive rub-rub-rub sound coming from one of the rear wheels. I was so busy taking in everything else that I do not recall if I felt it in the peddle. So here is the question. What is the likely cause of the problem returning? - Was this because one drum being oblong/warped and that somehow resulted in rub-rub-rub sound and excessive pushing on the cylinders to make them leak again? - Could this be a case where both cylinders are actually oblong themselves so the rubber isn't getting a good seal? (I thought it looked really good). - Is this likely some other issue that I need to look into? My plan was to solicit ideas as to what the problem might be. The next time I take it apart i'll be replacing the shoes as well in case the old shoes might be causing this.
  8. I can understand that once the vehicle started it would keep running but shouldn't the starter have been turning the wrong way? I would imagine that the generator would have been doing bad things to the battery as well. Luckily it wasn't running for too long. The local auto parts stores are pretty worthless but the truck supply might be just the ticket. Thanks for the help. Jeff
  9. I bought a 1936 Special that made it home July 2 and it is definetly full of surprises. The latest was that I was that when I began to investigate the week battery I found that it was connected backwards. Positive was going to the ground, and the negative headed off to the starter. Huh???? This thing started and ran in that configuration - how come? Since the cables are questionable I plan to replace them but I am not sure what gauge to look for. The common 4 gauge is definetly too small but is 2 gauge good enough? If not, any suggestions on where to find 0 or 00 gauge? I have seen some on line but I sure would like to get this thing running again and hope to find something local. Jeff
  10. I have a 1936 Buick Special 4 door sedan that has unfortunately sat in mid-project for the last decade. The body with the exception of running boards, drive train, and dash are complete and all but a few pieces of the wood are good. Seats need a complete rebuild and carpet, glass, etc are missing. The body and frame were stabilized from rust a decade ago. The engine (233 ci) ran when I got it but after sitting for so long it will necessarily need some attention. I love the car but I am coming to grips with the reality that it will need much more skill and time then I have available. For this reason I have started to explore finding a new home for this beloved car. I do not have a price in mind but I am very open toward working to a reasonable price. I am located in Shakopee MN (southern suburb of Minneapolis) and expect it would be easiest to look at the car in person but I am of course willing to exchange email and discuss other opportunities as well. The attached picture shows the car when I got it. As I stated, the body has been gone over and it is all in primer now. There is also a full grill and several other spare parts that I have that are not obvious in the attached photo. Jeff