Jeff_Miller

Members
  • Content Count

    110
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jeff_Miller

  1. I put diamond back on my '36 series 40 and I love them. The radial took out a lot of wandering and I think the wide whites with the applied edge looks really good although I'm not sure it is all that original looking.
  2. Sigh... perhaps I'm just getting old. I've worked with computers my entier career and worked on developing many of the paperless forms of communication we have today. However, as convenient as electronic information is I prefer printed material, especially for things like the bugle. I can appreciate many of the things that an electronic addition might bring but it will be a sad day when I no longer receive the glossy, printed magazine in my mail anymore.
  3. Thanks for all the input. The auction passed but I suspect it will get relisted. I did look at my manual last night and what Stuart says seems to make a lot of sense. Namely, the rear end of the century is slightly different then the special and swapping just the gears doesn't look like an obviously easy thing to do. Swapping the whole rear end seemed like a good idea because of all the other stories I've heard but the 15" wheels do seem like they would be a problem. There are other incidentals like speedometer gears and possibly clearance issues with the diff housing as well. I've seen another thread that talks about getting custom gears made and that would be less invasive then cutting off and adapting torque tube and propeller shafts to get the century rear end to fit but it seems that the cost of both approaches is going to get to be significant enough that I'll probably just stay with the back roads and going a bit slower. Jeff
  4. An auction on ebay has me thinking about swapping the rear end in my 1936 special with a 1936 century rear end. Unfortunately the shipping costs look like they would be in excess of $600 and with the price of the part itself that makes it a bit unattractive. So that leads me to two questions: 1) Does anybody know of a way to ship about 300 pounds (best guess) from CA to MN for about $200 or less? 2) Alternatively, would it be possible to just swap the pinion and ring gear from a century for the pinion and ring gear that are in my special? It seems like I should be able to get a pinion and ring gear shipped for less than a whole rear end. Alright... one more question. Am I nuts or is this really the best way to get better highway speeds while keeping the engine RPM down? Thanks, Jeff
  5. The kingpins on my 1936 special were worn enough that I decided they needed replacing. It was easy enough to disassemble the front end and parts were very reasonable from oldbuickparts.com but before I start trying to remove the bushings I thought I'd ask for some advice. The bushings seem to be well seated but it isn't clear if they are tight from being their for 70+ years or if they were pressed in. I looked at the replacement bushings and they have an inside diameter that is a few hundredths smaller then the diameter of the kingpin so it looks like I need to follow through with a reamer to the bushings once they get installed. I can use mocked up tools to get the bushings out (hopefully not messing up the yoke). It looks like several people recommend using a vice or a shot hammer to put the new bushings in. I hear tell of some people using a hone to make the bushing large enough but I think I tend to favor the concept that using a reamer is the only way to go. So here is the question. I haven't located a reamer yet and when I do I suspect it will be at least $40 but probably more. I have no idea what a machine shop would charge me but I have hope it would be less then $100. Keeping the cost of replacement parts in mind (should I screw up that is) it seems like it might just be best to have the machine shop do it even if it ends up costing a bit more. Anybody have any opinions or ideas for where to find a reamer, how much it might cost, and how much you might have paid for a machine shop to do this? Thanks, Jeff
  6. Hi Tom, Thanks for the comments as well as the Grainger model numbers. Those relays look different then the relays I normally associate with automotive applications but they seem like they should do the trick. As for a shutoff, my plan is to only use the fuel pump to help with vapor lock problems during start. As such, I'll only use a momentary switch instead of something that locks on. That should help me avoid the shut off issue you are talking about. All my research seems to indicate that even with the electric pump inline the mechanical pump should be able to pull sufficient gas once the engine is running. I am still investigating but I expect that I'll mount two or three relays and probably a turn signal flasher on a block and than mount the block under the dash. From there I'll run wires out to the pump, fan, possibly the headlights as you suggest, and to some new flashers while I'm at it. Looks like my project list for winter is getting kind of long Jeff
  7. Thanks for the pictures. That was exactly what I was looking for. About the only thing that I'm still guess at is if there was a standard place to mount the speaker or if it just got installed where the dealer decided. Jeff
  8. I want to add an electric fuel pump to my car to help with some of the vapor lock I get as well as an electric pusher fan to help when I'm stuck in traffic. The car gets by without these but it has gotten a bit warmer than I want at times and I'm not sure how much longer the wife will enjoy those precious times when we wait for things to cool a bit. My question is, should I use relays to do this? The fan I have has a 4 amp draw. I haven't chosen a pump yet but they don't appear to have too much draw either. Is the relay only because they might draw more power than that on start up? Of course the other reason for the relay is to keep switches from melting. What are the general opinions from folks regarding relays and fan/fuel pump additions? Jeff
  9. Hi Mark, Thanks for the idea. I had thought about doing something like that but I had some concerns about whether it would be loud enough and how much the glove box might muffle the sound. I currently drive around with a boom box but this is unattractive because its size doesn't lend itself well being in the front seat and in the back it is impossible to reach to change channels and adjust volume. Perhaps I just need a remote controlled boom box? Ultimately I like the idea of a radio permanently mounted inside the car so that I don't forget it when I'm going through the rest of the pre-drive checkout. I think it might be possible to install speakers either under the dash or in the kick board area so that they wouldn't be seen and then put a modern car radio in the glove box. That eats my glove box but should keep things out of site. The speaker box idea is still the most attractive to me but if I can't locate one from 1936 I'll probably go this way. Jeff
  10. I want to add a modern radio to my car running off either a 6 to 12 volt converter or possibly just a dedicated 12 volt battery that I'll charge independent of the car's electical system. I don't want to change the original apperance so I was thinking that it might be good to try and use an original speaker box and mount the speakers and radio with a remote inside it. It might also be interesting to see if the radio head could be modified to control the radio somehow. I have been unable to locate any pictures of the exact radio used in the 1936. If anybody has pictures or can point me to pictures I'd really appreciate it. Of course, any other ideas people have are also welcome. Thanks, Jeff
  11. In response to chstickl, there are indeed some 6V fans available out there. Here is one link: http://www.macsradiator.com/6voltelectricfan.aspx In my first 36 I was all set to convert to 12V but it got pretty involved and the project ultimately stalled. I swapped cars for a Canadian car that I thought was much further along than my project car and I am going to keep this one 6V. It starts and runs on the 6V although it doesn't turn over real fast. I rebuilt the fuel system and that really helped with starting. I am a bit concerned about heat and expect I will add a 6V pusher fan soon. Jeff
  12. I am looking for information anyone may have about model, trim, and paint for my 1936 McLaughlin Buick. It is a five passenger coupe with built-in trunk but it is a two door instead of the more common four door. Trim and Paint question: Trim 169 and Paint code 611. Does anybody have any ideas what these mean? I am particularly interested in learning what color 611 is. US paint codes for this year seem to be in the 400’s and I haven’t found an equivalent lookup for Canadian paint codes. Is there anything special about the trim code of 169? Model question: US car ads refer to this configuration as a two door five passenger Victoria coupe with built-in trunk and having a model designation of 48. The only McLaughlin ad I have found refers to this type of car only as a 44-11. However, when I look at the plate it shows the model designation of 4491. Is the 91 vs. 11 significant? My assumption has been that this car is essentially the same as a US Model 48 with some slight differences which are always fun to discover after ordering parts. BTW: Anybody know where I can get a Canadian hub cap? I don’t know how to attach a picture of the plate but here is everything that it says on it: GENERAL MOTOR of CANADA LIMITED MADE IN [GM] CANADA OSHAWA WALKERVILLE REGINA 1936 MODEL 4491 SERIAL 644910451 ENGINE 2941547 BODY SERIAL 38 TRIM 169 PAINT 611 Thanks, Jeff
  13. Stuart, Thanks for the description. I went back and turned the wheel until I found the hole in the shaft you described. I was then able to inert the spring loaded portion of the ignition lever in far enough to lock the steering so I now know how that works. It is also clear that I am missing some remnants from the mangled switch that must be part of what moves the lever inward slightly when the key is turned to lock. It is kind of a disappointment to realize the ignition lever isn't locked but at least now I know how it was supposed to work. Jeff
  14. The column mounted ignition switch that was on my 36 special when I bought it had been mangled by some previous owner. I have a new switch that I was a bolt away from using to replace the old one when I realized a few oddities. On the mangled switch the on/off portion worked even though the lock cylinder was mangled. I assumed this was due to the afore mentioned mangling. However, as I looked over the replacement complete with a good lock cylinder and all the other bolt on parts I realized that I was able to work the on/off lever even though the cylinder was in the lock position. This made me wonder if the lock is actually suppossed to prevent the on/off lever from moving. I ended up tearing out the remainder of the mangled lock from the old switch and for the life of me I cannot see how it would possibly prevent the lever from moving. I need to take the replacement lock to a lock smith because I do not have a key for it but before I do that can anybody tell me if the key is suppossed to lock keep the lever from moving? If it doesn't, what the heck does the key do? One other question. I noticed that the portion of the lock that holds the stearing column was very plain on my original but the new one has a few extra ribs on it for adornment. Is this because my car is Canadian or could it be that the special had a plain one while the other series had a fancier column brace? Thanks, Jeff
  15. Hi Brian, From the end of the hood ornament to the point the sits on the cowl on my Series 40 it is 44.5". The point that sits on the cowl itself looks to be 7/8". The 51" measurement included the hood ornament (sorry about that). Jeff
  16. On my 1936 Series 40 McLaughlin: Top chrome and steel measures 51" from the grill to the cowl. Under the hood, 39" for the flange area that attaches to the hood with 1" on either side that looks to be part of the hinge but is only wide enough to be part of the assembly. I guess that puts the hings at about 41". Jeff
  17. Hi Fred, Thanks for the response and the offer to send pictures. I already have a few of the washers so I know what they look like; I just can’t seem to find replacements. Do you have new ones to sell or a reference other than McMaster-Carr? The ones you referenced seem to be the correct thickness without having to stack them and I would prefer to not stack. Jeff
  18. Thanks for the link. I didn't see any washers that were as thick as the ones currently on the car. Part number 9712K423 is pretty close in the other dimensions but it is about 1/2 the thickness so I would need to stack them. However, now that I know what to call them at least I can continue to look. I see McMaster Carr referenced a lot on this board and I suspect it is probably time to see what they can do for me. Thanks again for the pointer. Jeff
  19. I seem to be the victim of hardware stores that carry bolts in plastic, large box stores that only carry 2x4s and auto parts stores that only sell fuzzy dice I want to replace the washers that go on the stud from the engine and mount between the manifolds and the nut. These washers are almost 1" in diameter but have a width of .17". I can't find any local hardware that looks like them and the "experts" at the above mentioned stores have no clue what to call it other than a washer. I believe there is a reason the washer is shaped like it is so I don't want to replace it with a modern stamped washer or group of washers. I did find some brass bushings that approximate the shape but I suspect the brass will be too soft for the intended purpose. Does anybody out there know what this bit of hardware might be called so that I can try to locate a replacement on the internet? Perhaps you might even know a place to get them? Thanks, Jeff
  20. Joel, thanks for the heads up. I looked at the picture posted for that ebay item and it didn't look to promising to me but it was cheap so I bid anyway. Unfortunately I lost out in the closing seconds.
  21. Yes, that all makes sense. So I am apparently missing the electic portion of the switch that bolts to the back. Bummer, I wonder how I will be able to find that part? Thanks for the info. Jeff
  22. I'm wondering if I have all the parts or the capability of repairing the ignition switch on my 36 Special. The lock core has been brutally gouged out so that the lever now swings free without need of a key. I looked at how you might take it apart to put a replacement lock cylinder in but it wasn't immediately obvious how you would do that. The whole lock assembly is held on to the steering column with a non-slotted bolt on the left side and a bolt coming down from the console area on the right. There is also an open threaded area below the bolt coming from the console area; it isn't clear to me if this is supposed to be a single bolt going from the bottom to the top or if this might be a different bolt that is missing. This investigation led me to wonder how the wires would be run from the ignition switch assembly. I see that on the back of the assembly that there are two very small threaded holes and it makes me wonder if there should be an electrical switch housing bolted onto the lever housing. My books aren't clear and since it was this way when I acquired the car I am left wondering how this should actually be and if I have all the parts to return it to original. I think a good locksmith is in order to remove the busted lock cylinder but I wondered how someone would do that. I did find what appears to be a very small pin on the lock assembly that is right next to the lever you turn to "on" or "off". I suspect that this pin is probably how you get the cylinder out but I'm not sure. Would this pin be drilled out? Opinions or ideas would be greatly welcome. Jeff
  23. I too have a 36 that I contemplated switching to 12 but stayed with 6 V. I wanted some modern ammenities as well a little better starting when the engine is hot. I stayed with a single Optima 6 V system and huge battery cables. So far it seems to be working. I looked into the 6/12 volt batteries but the version that runs the car on 6 volts and starter on 12 volts is just that. You cannot tap off 12 volts for other things. I only found the one battery at Antique Auto Batteries. I did not locate an Optima that had both 6 and 12 volts. Mark, do these really exist? If so, can you send a URL for it? I looked into the idea of having two 6V batteries wired in series but I was never able to get any information indicating that this would be a good idea. The first problem is that you need to have the batteries connected in parrallel in order to get them charged by the generator at 6V. However, if you connect them in parrallel you can no longer connect them in series because the two circuits interfere with each other. I didn't get a real answer as to what that interference would be but I suspect it would not be good for the battery or else there might be a potential of bleed into the rest of the car which would result in blown bulbs, clocks, etc that are 6V. There used to be a switch that would allow you to connect two 6 volt batteries in such a way that 6 and 12 would be available all the time. I unfortunately have not been able to locate any of these switches. If you just want a little more juice to get the starter to go faster you could go with an 8 Volt battery and up the output from your generator a bit. I looked into this but decided that the battery choices were too few and that the gain wasn't worth the limitations. As for running 12V appliances off a converter I would be suspicious of the load required. This might work for some accessory with very little power requirements but it will really drain your battery or wreck the accessory if the accessory needs a lot of power. Another issue is that you really need to connect the converter after the ignition so that the battery doesn't drain when the vehicle is off. This unfortunatly rules out hidden power door locks or alarms.
  24. That makes sense but except that the car does not have any holes for the clips to slide into. My car is a mclaughlin; I wonder if they did things differntly in Canada? Since my car came without the lights on the fender I suppose it is possible that it is an early production vehicle and that may be part of the reason there are no holes. Jeff