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Everything posted by Jeff_Miller

  1. It turns out that my early production 1936 headlight switch is slightly different. The hook from the knob goes into a couple of holes but there are no securing screws or nuts. I had to loosen the nut holding the switch to the dash and that allowed enough movement to pull the knob assembly from the switch assembly and then finally remove everything from the car.
  2. Sorry to high jack the thread but exactly how do you remove the headlight switch so that you can refurbish it? Do you just loosen the nut on the inside of the dash and then it swings enough that you can extract the knob and pull mechanism?
  3. So the big three as far as I can tell are Rhode Island, YNZ, and Narragansett. RI broke things down into various harnesses with descriptions which until I actually tore apart my car didn't make any sense. YNZ has a single +$800 number for everything listed on their website. Narragansett does the breakdown like RI and comes in $100 to $200 cheaper than the others for what I think is about the same deal. RI didn't answer my requests by email and until now I didn't want to call somebody that couldn't be bothered to answer submissions from their own web site. I have seen there work and I really
  4. Thanks for all the support. I've calmed down and I'm working on a recovery plan. Sadly, I know exactly the issue the Michael talks about and have fallen pray to those unscrupulous vendors myself. It is extremely annoying when I, like Michael, go through the effort of informing the seller and they don't bother correcting the issue. Sadly, I too have a collection of parts that I have purchased that are not what they were represented to be. As for taking too long, I too am all too familiar with that issue as well. My last car wasn't much to start with and required a lot of work. I worked on
  5. Sorry folks, I just need a place to vent. I've been trying like heck to get parts for my '36 and on the last 3 orders (Bobs, Cars, and ebay) I've had nothing but problems and extended delays in fulfillment. On one order the seller sent me somebody else's order by mistake. I called the seller to try to get my order and agreed to forward the miss-sent order on to the person that likely received my order. For this effort I was promised that my shipping would be refunded. As it turns out, I not only didn't get refunded for shipping the miss-sent package to the person it should have gone to but
  6. It is hard to argue against fixing a problem vs. masking it with a backup. I just ordered the engine and dash harness which will set me back 3 weeks but clearly I won't need to worry as much about the wiring. I'm still thinking it is a good idea to have the backup fuse though. Jeff
  7. Well this is an interesting discussion that I started I am familiar with the GM fusible link implementation and indeed that is the exact type of implementation I am looking for. And yes, I know the pain it causes when this SPOF occurs because I was stranded on the side of the road in the middle of the night in the middle of WI once when that fusible link blew on my 1984 Fiero. There was nothing wrong with the car other than the fusible link but I still appreciate the concept that had there been a monster short in the vehicle wiring that the link would have gone before the car torched, poten
  8. Perhaps I'm just being paranoid but I was thinking of going one extra step above using a battery disconnect and adding a modern approach to protecting wiring by putting a fusible link, circuit breaker, or big fuse on the 10 gauge wire that runs from my starter to the ammeter on my 1936 Buick Special. It is this 10 gauge wire that feeds all the electrics in the car short of the starter motor. My wiring is original and although it looks to be in good shape I can't help but think how brittle it might be. I think that if I added something like a 50 Amp sacrificial fusible link, breaker, or fuse
  9. OK, some not so good news followed by some better news. It turns out the Cole Hersee 24200 latching solenoid only requires 1 amp to latch which is great because getting a 6 to 12 volt doubler that will pass 1 amp of current is pretty simple and cheap. Unfortunately, the 24200 can only surge up to about 200 amps and they didn't indicate for how many seconds of this current it could handle. The other bad thing is that the solenoid is not sealed and so not a good idea to use anywhere except in a protected cab. However, my research brought me to the Intellitec 01-00055-002 latching solenoid. Th
  10. Yup, I've researched that thread and many other threads related to battery disconnects and they only seem to cement in my mind that I want to continue to use one. It seems many people like the green knob but that isn't a good solution for me because my battery is under the seat and it would be extremely inconvenient to get to it. I currently have one on the firewall but when it was installed by some previous owner it got installed by butchering the firewall and the insulator in the cab. I'm replacing the insulator now so I'd like to not repeat that ugly installation. Knifes, or other manua
  11. I'm still trying to get the rundown on this but this looks really interesting. I was looking around for disconnect switches when I ran across this remote disconnect: Batteries Products I like it because I thought I could have easy access and still hide the switch someplace that isn't so obvious. I also thought that if I used the keyed version that I could eliminate the ugly key that some previous owner installed and replace it with the disconnect key possibly hidden out of site. I would then run all power through the car via the original column mounted switch and you can't believe how much j
  12. I'm finally getting to replacing the firewall insulator and have everything that goes through the firewall removed except for the oil and temp gauge tubes. I appears that I can simply unscrew the oil tube but it looks like the water temp is soldered on. How does it come off the gauge? Should I remove the fitting from the head instead of trying to remove it from the gauge cluster? The other issue I have has been in trying to find replacement bolts. All the truss head bolts I find have a head diameter that is much smaller than what was on the car. I see bobs has some "sheet metal" screws tha
  13. Well that makes a lot more sense than the gibberish I got from flaming river tech support when I asked about using it with a 6 volt system and got back: "Unfortunately we can not guarantee proper performance of those switches, which are designed for higher amp applications, on a lower amp vehicle. We just don’t have the data to definitively say whether they will function properly or not." Perhaps he really meant volt instead of amp but even still, it appears they really don't know what they are selling. I'm thinking I'll go with the biggest switch I can find (amperage wise) even if I don't nee
  14. I want to replace the battery disconnect switch that came with my car and I'm wondering if anybody has any guidance as to the capacity it should be. My car is a 1936 Special still running on 6 volts. From the shop manual I see that the max charging rate is less than 20 amps and that the starter lists 375 amps at "running torque" and 575 amps at "stall torque". I think the max charging rate should be an indication as to the continuous service requirements while the starter amperage should indicate the surge needs. Looking at the Flaming River little switch I see it is rated for 100 amps conti
  15. Well I did try jack oil but it made absolutely no impact on slowing the oil leaking around the shaft so off they went to Apple today. I tried to contact five points for a price comparison but apparently they don't work on Friday's. I talked with Apple before sending and they definitely sound like the place to go. They said 1 week in the shop so with shipping I should have them back in 3 weeks. Shipping is a bit expensive and I was surprised that FedEX was actually the cheapest option. The best part is that when I went to the drop off place and gave them Apple's phone number FedEX already h
  16. So I did some more reading of older posts and Apple is by far the most recommended followed by five points classic. I also came across some discussions about basically emptying the shocks and refilling them with an oil that might cause the seals to swell a bit. Everything from jack and hydraulic oil to STP and motorcycle fork oil. Others recommend using a cotton string to act as a temporary seal although that feels more like a band aid that won't last too long. I'll need to give five points a call on Monday to see what their price might be as well as see if I can find anybody local that mig
  17. As part of a king pin replacement project that seems to be becoming a whole front end , I took my front shock off to clean it and found that it was leaking oil from where the arms connect to the main body. I haven't looked much but I seem to remember seeing a number of posts that indicate I should find a professional to rebuild them. Can anybody share their experiences and recommendations for people that you thought did a good job at hopefully a reasonable price? Its starting to look like it will be about $200 a shock (ouch). Thanks, Jeff
  18. It is time to tackle another winter project and I'm eyeing up trying to resolve the nasty sounding clunks that I experience when taking a turn at speed. I looked at the shock bushings where they attach to the axle and they are defiantly toast but is this the only real suspect? The shackles that hold the leaf springs haven't been touched in many years and are covered with old grease. I'm certain they won't be fun to try to take apart after all these years so I'm wondering if it is worth doing while I'm replacing the shock bushings. I'm certain things would work better but I don't think they a
  19. I'm just wondering, do you guys ever use the heater? My car keeps the cabin plenty warm just from the engine heat coming through the firewall and since I drive it mostly after the snow is gone in the spring and before the snow flies in the fall it just never seems to be cool enough to want to actually add more heat to the cabin. Jeff
  20. I installed a 12 volt jump start battery in the trunk and use it to run a modern radio in the cab. The battery lasts quite some time, doesn't require additional energy from the rather limited charging system in my '36, and is easy to recharge when stopped since it just plugs into any convenient 120 volt outlet. The added bonus is that if necessary it can be used to jump the car by connecting it straight to the starter. BTW: Grant, i love your hidden radio installation. I've been thinking about doing something similar but haven't found a good head that I could afford. Jeff
  21. Got the starter back in tonight and things are working fine again. When I originally got the car I replaced the battery cables with very thick welding cables and ran that way for a few years before this issue developed so I know that was not the issue. The foot pedal start had also been replace with an ignition button many years ago so I have no issue with vacuum or the rest of the original starting system. I did suspect the button and replaced it earlier only to find it was not the issue. I also verified the button before putting the old one back. The rebuilder did not give me an itemized l
  22. Hi Jason, Thanks for the feedback. I just got the starter back today but probably won't have a chance to try it until this weekend. Unfortunately the shop did not give me an itemized list of parts nor was the guy that did the work available when I picked it up so I'm not 100% certain what they did. It is a nice shiny black now and they did replace the gear assembly that engages the flywheel. I know he cleaned up contacts on the relays and I hope he replaced bearings and such. The guy that rebuilt it said he tested the solenoid and said it was good. He suspected a low battery but testing
  23. My car seemed to be exhibiting classic starter solenoid failure in that it engages and spins but when I stop pushing the starter button the solenoid stays in and keeps cranking; I have to remove the battery to get it to stop. Even after removing the battery it takes a bit for the solenoid to spring back out. I looked at it a bit on the bench but decided at 76 years old it was probably just as well to bring it to a professional shop for a rebuild. I dropped it off yesterday and expect a call on Monday as to what they think should be done and for how much. At this point the solenoid for sure n
  24. Year: 1936 Make: McLaughlin Buick Model: Victoria 2-door special Price: $12,000 Location: Shakopee, MN Contact Information: jmiller_2308@comcast.net Description: I recently listed my 2-door Victoria Special on craigslist and thought that this group of people may be interested in viewing it. Please follow this craigslist link for complete information and pictures. 1936 Buick McLaughlin Victoria Thanks, Jeff
  25. Hmm... its been 4 years for me and luckily no delamination issues for me. My tires also do not rub but I do know that they are wider than the 6.5x16's that were on the car originally. Unfortunately I can not locate the invoice for the tires and there doesn't seem to be any markings on the tires to indicate their size so I can't tell you exactly what they were. I do remember being concerned about the 225 size and I believe I got something with a lower number but I know it wasn't an 85 profile. Sorry, I wish I could be more help. Jeff
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