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Everything posted by Jeff_Miller

  1. Hi Tom, I faced the same dilemma as you and ultimately decided to mount the seal similar to your option 2. However in my case the seal wasn't big enough to get the channel shown in picture 5 to fit over the edge of the vent so I ended up placing the entire seal inside the edge of the vent. I tried numerous positions and fittings but ultimately it seemed that the flange in picture 4 needed to mate with the inside edge from picture 6 so that any water that made it past the main seal would be directed out the drain hose. I'm not 100% happy with this as it does leave the vent sitting a bit higher on the cowl. It may be that I was just used to how the vent sat with the worn (largely missing) old seal and perhaps it is actually now in the correct place. It currently sits up about 1/8" above the rest of the cowl but I still need to do some fitting under there so maybe it will get better. BTW: Great pictures. I'm sure they will help others be able to comment. Jeff
  2. When I got my car it had a big keyed disconnect switch mounted high on the firewall so cables had to come out from under the cab and up the the sidewall and to actuate I had to reach under the glove box to turn the key. This was a bit of a pain, aesthetically it was horrid, and the worst of it was that when it got put in they butchered both the firewall and the firewall insulator. I redid the wiring and replaced the firewall insulator this past year and in doing so I made fixing the ease of use and aesthetics a top priority. I looked at the Flaming River stuff and numerous others and although it took stuff out of the cab it was still ugly on the firewall and although this allows removing if from the firewall insulator in the car it still was kind of an ugly wart under the hood. I through about using a keyed one and mounting it on the panels in the foot well. This would only leave the key exposed down there and being closer then the firewall I thought it might be easier to use. However that area is very shallow and in the end I couldn't convince myself that I could put it in there and still be safe. My end solution was to get a latching relay disconnect. These are often used on RVs but I see them used for cars as a secret way to protect your car. Cole Hersee and Intellitec both make one and I see others on ebay and RV places as well. I used the Intellitec version. I mounted the disconnect switch with the battery completely out of site. The extra cables are in the battery tray and the cables to the engine bay look normal. I ran a small DPDT rocker switch to the top of the foot well panel where it is out of site and I can easily trigger it to disconnect the battery. The bad news about the latching relays is that they I could only find versions that required 12 volts to actuate although I found a full 6 volt battery did indeed actuate it but I wasn't ready to trust that 100%. I happen to have a jump start battery in my car that I use for the radio and I use that as the source to power the disconnect switch. The latch draws less than an amp to switch so I looked at possibly using a small 6 to 12 volt converter but I gave up on that idea because the cheap ones just didn't inspire confidence. I did recently replace my generator with an alternator and I found a decent lower cost 6 to 12 volt converter on ebay so I may rethink the jump start battery when the winter projects start. In any event, I am a huge believer in disconnect switches so I hope you find a solution that works for you. Jeff
  3. I hooked up the two wires for power and the instrument light side of the instrument switch and the clock lights up without any further ground. That makes me believe the third wire is not a ground. I have also been looking at some schematics that seem to indicate the third wire might actually be to connect to the map light side of the instrument switch. Doing this should cause the clock to illuminate when the instrument switch is set to light the map light as well when it is set to turn on the instrument cluster. I'll be trying some more probes with my multi-meter and expect that I'll try to hook the third wire to the map side of the switch and hope it doesn't fry my clock. Jeff
  4. I'm finishing up the last of my wiring and I see that I either forgot to label on of the three wires from the accessory clock or it fell off. I believe the clock is wired entirely from the instrument/cab lighting switch. One wire from the clock goes to the middle of the switch to get power. One wire from the clock goes to the driver side of the switch to turn on the clocks lamp when the instrument lights are turned on. I'm not sure what the third wire is but I think it is a ground. I tried to use an ohm meter and I do see connectivity from the power to the third wire I suspect to be ground but I see nothing when I ohm between the lamp wire and the suspected ground. Hmmm.... I better check to see if the bulb might be dead. In any event, can anyone confirm if the third wire is a ground and possibly where it might be hooked to on your car? Does it perhaps connect to the headlight switch? Thanks, Jeff
  5. I decided to reuse the post from the tank strap to mount the fuel pump strap so the pump is now tucked up above the tank in a nicely protected area. I had some significant issues trying to bend fuel line and finally ended up using a couple of 90 degree fittings to simplify getting an inline fuel filter in front of the pump. That also solved a length issue I was having. The fuel line running to the front of the car was unmodified and is still in its mounting clips. I ran the rubber on the outlet side to overlap by almost 3" mostly because I'm a bit paranoid about how well the hose will seal on the old line. BTW: the old line looks rusty but its all surface rust; I was prepared to replace it but it was so solid I decided to leave that for a winter project. Jeff
  6. Thanks for all the feedback. When I looked through the sender mounting hole in my tank I was surprised that there wasn't anything at all on the pickup so a filter before the pump is definitely in the works. Don, thanks for the picture. I continue to lean toward the bottom of the trunk as a mounting place but I'm still researching. Jeff
  7. I'm adding an inline auxiliary electric fuel pump to help with vapor lock issues and was wondering where others that have done the same thing mounted theirs. Oh yes, the car is a 1936 Special. From what I've read you want to put the pump as close to the tank as possible and also be sure to put it someplace where it is least likely to be hit but something. I am currently eyeing up a flat place under the front passenger side of the trunk. This area is almost directly above the fuel outlet from the tank and it seems to be a very safe place to avoid accidental damage. The one concern I have is that it is quite high and I have concerns about how that might impact performance. Another place I was looking at is on the inside of the frame at the rear wheel well. This would keep the height about where the fuel line currently is but it seems that it is more exposed to debris getting kicked up as well as getting closer to the axle should something really bad happen. A final place I've been thinking about is to mount it in the frame just inward of the rear tire. It seems that mounting it there I could avoid accidental damage and also make it a bit more hidden. It would however mean running wires further and it would be a lot further from the fuel tank. Any opinions or insight from your experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeff
  8. Hmm... took a closer look on this website Dorman 578-007 - Auto Parts Network I measured mine and they are about 25.5" from the bent end to the end of the rod. The Dorman is listed as being 25" in length which is a bit shorter but should work. Mine measure as a 1" width but the Dorman measures 2" in width. I could slice 1" off the bend so that the straps would fit the holes on my frame but I'll have to go look closer to see if having a wider strap would cause issues running across the tank itself. Jeff
  9. I had to drop the tank so that I could put in the new harness and now that the old straps are off it only makes sense to replace them if I can. Does anybody have a good source? It looks to me like the Dorman 578-007 should be an excellent match up but I wondered what others might have found. Jeff
  10. I have a few questions about replacing the generator with an alternator. I can understand the benefits with the more power, integrated regulator, less drag on the engine, etc. but do wonder about what speed you need to be driving before the alternator actually starts to charge. From what I have been reading, it seems that the 1 wire alternators need the alternator to spin at a certain speed before the charging circuit actually starts. I'd hate to be at idle or slow speeds and have the same issues with an alternator that I have with a generator. I am also wondering how the one wire alternator gets wired into the system and how it looks on the amp meter. It seems like you would use the mounting for ground and run the single wire directly to the meter; is this correct? If you do it that way, does the amp meter still show charging and discharging? One final question is how to get the correct pulley and look. I know that gener-nator would be the same outside and pulley but it is WAY too much money. The powergen looks a bit more attractive in that it retains the generator look. I'm still researching that approach but need to wait till Monday as their online catalog lists "please call" for a 1936 Buick. The only other options I've seen are alternators that look like a modern 12v alternator and those I'd have to imagine will require some rework to get the pulley correct. One final thought I had was to take the trek into town to an automotive electrical rebuilder to see if they can do something. Thanks, Jeff
  11. Thanks for the information B.C. Where did you get the McLaughlin Buick manual? I could really use one of those so that I could try to spot differences before they surprise me. I don't know if McLaughlin had the early and late model differences that the US versions did but the headlight switch and lack of fender lamps on my car makes be believe it is most closely related to the early production US cars. On my car the "cutout relay /voltage regulator" is mounted on the firewall in front of the driver. The "box" has 4 connectors on it. A single connector on one side is labeled GEN and three connectors are on the opposite side labeled BAT, GRD, and F. When I take the cover off I see two coils and this all makes me believe this is a cutout relay for a 3 brush generator. Now to add even more mystery, the box appears to have replaced whatever was on the firewall originally because it is physically bigger (wider) than the original mounting holes. Somebody put this in to replace the original and added an additional hole in the firewall to be able to do that. So if this is a cutout relay as I suspect, it may have replaced the earlier voltage regulator that you see in your manual. However, I believe the harness I removed was the original harness and it only has 4 wires in this area so I'm not sure what would have happened to the fifth connector you see in the manual. The original wiring that I pulled out was setup as you indicated. From the generator, larger wire goes to GEN on the box and smaller wire goes to F on the box. The BAT was connected to the AMP meter and the GRD was connected to 8 on the headlight switch. Unfortunately, the new wiring harness is setup for US Buicks. There are 2 wires that come from the loom at the generator. One of these is routed back to the AMP meter and the smaller is routed to 8 on the headlight switch. I really don't like the idea of cutting into the loom to redirect wires through my box so I have been trying to contemplate other solutions. One solution was to just move my box so that it would be within reach of the wires in the new harness, connect those wires to AMP and GRD on the box, and add two new wires that would connect the generator to GEN and F. The only problem is that the box is too large to strap onto my generator and I'm having trouble locating another spot that is close enough and doesn't interfere with everything else. Another solution is to try to find the box that is mounted on top of the US version generator in the hopes that it is physically smaller and will fit there on my car. I found one for $45 but I don't know what size it is yet. Reading your post, it sounds like you physically replaced the generator with an alternator. I thought about doing that as well but at least for the moment I'd prefer to keep it more original if possible. Again, thanks for the valuable input and giving me more to think about. Jeff
  12. I've been studying the new wiring harness I had made and the generator cutout relay wiring is different in the new harness. In both harnesses there are two wires that go to the generator but in the new harness these wires route back to the amp meter and the ground leg of the headlight switch while in my original harness the two wires go to a firewall mounted generator cutout relay and wires from the relay go on to the amp meter and ground. I have to add that my car is a 1936 McLaughlin Buick so I suspect that perhaps the Canadians used the external firewall mounted generator cutout relay while the US version must have the regulator built into or on top of the generator. Can anybody confirm where their relay is? In the meantime, I'm still trying to figure out how to correct the issue. Unfortunately I've already had to modify the new harness to swap the instrument light sockets so sending it back for rework probably isn't going to happen. I may end up unwinding the cloth to add and reroute wires appropriately but I haven't quite worked up the courage to start hacking into my brand new expensive harness Jeff [h=3][/h]
  13. Woo Hoo!!! I must have been tired when I was eyeballing the APM-390 and AP-390BK substitutes earlier in the week. Today I started to bolt things together so that I could determine what kind of modifications I might be able to make and to my surprise everything lined up perfectly. So if you don't mind substituting a pedal and bracket from a few years newer these parts will work for a 1936 Buick Special. Jeff
  14. I got the parts today. Although I don't have an original to look at, the APM-390 bracket looks to be a very good candidate. I don't have the lower section on my pedal so I don't know for sure but the mounting holes line up and it is straight at the bottom and that seems to agree with the pictures of an unmolested pedal from the thread above. Unfortunately the pedal is not such a good match. The pedal is AP-390BK and it has a significant angle on the bottom that when attached to APM-390 puts the connector for the accelerator rod several inches away from where it should be. Back to square one in looking for a pedal. Jeff
  15. I have only been looking for a few months but I don't believe you will find a replacement. I contemplated trying to repair mine but since I'm missing the mounting bracket I'd also have to replace or create that. I also found that the slip covers are for series 80 and 90 with no indication as to whether those slips also fit a 40. I've decided to invest in an experiment. I talked with Bob and Bob's Automobilia and had him do some measurements of similar parts. It sounds like APM-390 has mounting holes that should fit my floor pan so I ordered that as a replacement for my missing bracket. I then had Bob measure some of the pedals with cores for both height and distance to the accelerator rod as well as whether they would fit the bracket. The pedal I chose was 1/2" shorter than mine but it sounds like the accelerator rod will attach at the same height respective to the firewall. I'm not sure of the part number for the pedal but I think it was AP-37B. When they get here I'll see how close they are and if necessary see if they can be modified. I'll report back once I know more. Jeff
  16. Thanks for drawings. I know exactly what I need now. Jeff
  17. Funny you should ask. I started a thread on this a few days ago.
  18. Thanks Greg. I looked through the shop manual a lot but somehow missed that picture. I think that scan answers most of my questions. It really looks like there is a part like that bracket from the 1938 that was used on the 1936 as well. At least that is what I am imagining from that scan. Some pedals that I have been looking at seem to have a spring on the pin that attaches the pedal to the floor but I suspect that the spring on the other side of the firewall would accomplish much the same thing. If you get a chance and it isn't a hassle I'd love to see your pictures when you get back. In the meantime, I haven't had any real luck finding a supplier that could replace my pedal; they only seem to carry a slip cover to replace the rubber. I'll keep looking but I suspect if I want to go back to something more original I'll be breaking out the welder and iron works. Thanks again. Jeff
  19. I found these tabs between the wire and the screw head on headlight switch, terminal blocks and other electrical connections. They are so small, corroded, and thin that wire brushing them to ensure I get a good connection is darn near impossible. I'd like to replace them but I'll be darned if I know what they are called or where to look for them. They measure about 3/8" by 1/2" with a tab that bends at a right angle so that it can be inserted in a hole so it doesn't turn when the wire and screw are applied. Jeff
  20. So I found this on Bob's. It is for a 1938 but I wonder if something similar was used on the 1936. Unfortunately my pedal no longer has a tube to put a pin into. Jeff
  21. I'm redoing more sins from the past on my 1936 Special and I'm trying now to determine how exactly the accelerator pedal was originally attached and if I can go back to that. The car has been converted to a push button start but aside from missing the linkage to the vacuum switch everything in the engine bay looks to be original. However, the pedal itself has been modified by having a plate welded onto it and then screwed into the floor. Upon inspecting the floor pan I see that there are capture nuts running vertical from the floor up so I have to imagine that the original pedal was somehow hinged or pivoted off whatever bolted into those capture nuts. I can find a lot of pedals on ebay that claim to be correct but they don't show the back of the pedal or they are pedals without the rest of the mounting. In the attached pictures you can see the floor pan with the capture nuts running vertically along with the points of the sheet metal screws that were used to attach the current gas pedal. The other picture shows the modified pedal that I'd like to replace. Can anybody post a picture of what the pedal attachment should look like or recommend a reputable and knowledgeable source where I might be able to buy the entire assembly? Thanks, Jeff
  22. In my early reading I found time and again that you want to put the relay as near as possible to the thing that will consume it. That is what led me to originally wanting to put them on the terminal blocks. The challenge in hiding them up there wasn't too appealing but after I realized how funky the factory wiring is I realized it would require me to either modify the stock harness configuration or put 2 relays on each side of the car (total of 4) as well as run a 10 gauge power line to each of the sides of the car. Hmm... I just had a flash of a thought. Those headlights are awful big and I wonder if I could place the relays inside them? Grant, did you mean that to be effective I'd need separate relays for both low and high on both sides of the car for a total of 4 relays? Perhaps I missed something but I haven't run across anything to suggest that before. Then again, I started this thread because I was looking for more details on how others did this because that kind of detail wasn't in my previous reading. The other big benefit I read about using relays is to remove the wear and tear on the headlight switch as well as remove the voltage drop through the headlight switch. I like this concept and I believe that whether I put the relays at the terminal blocks or under the dash that I should realize this benefit. I appreciate and understand the comments about putting the relays close to the headlights but after looking at things more I'm leaning toward a compromise of using 2 relays hidden under the dash. At the very least, this would give me the benefits of reducing wear and tear on the headlight switch as well as remove the voltage drop through the headlight switch. The new harness does have a heavier gauge in the light wires so hopefully that offsets any inefficiencies I may encounter due to keeping the relays under the dash instead of at the terminal blocks. I will still have voltage drop through the dimmer switch but due to the funkiness of the way the factory wired these cars that really only impacts the passenger side headlight when in country mode. I really can't finalize anything until my new harness gets here but it is looking like I'll be able to use a standard harness configuration rerouted to a fuse block and relays that are either tucked up next to the hand brake or possibly near where the horn relay is. If I can use the hand brake location I can probably even clean up some of the mess under the dash as well as move some of the wires out of harms way should the vent leak. Jeff
  23. I have seen a few threads about people adding a headlight relay and I wonder at which point in the wiring you did this? I have a new harness coming that follows the original patterns but upgrades the light circuits to 12 gauge. The larger wire should reduce some voltage drop but I also like the idea of using a relay to further reduce drop and reduce wear on the headlight switch. My initial thought was to put relays out at the terminal blocks near the fenders but they would be hard to hide and look out of place. That is ultimately why I up-gauged the light circuits. The next thought was that I could use the standard harness and instead of connecting the light circuits to the light switch I'd connect them to relays under the dash and run control wires to the headlight switch to trigger the relays. This was looking really promising until I finally realized that the dimmer switch really only dims the passenger side headlight. On my switch, the #5 terminal is connected directly to the high beam on the driver side so when I pull the switch to country mode the driver side is always on high and only the passenger side has dimming. Very odd; I'd have thought they would be on the same circuit or at least that it would the be light that blinds the oncoming driver that would have been dimmed. I would like to retain the capability of having high beams but since I don't want to always have the driver beam in high mode it seems I'd either have to retain both city and country modes on the headlight switch or run and/or splice additional wires. Since I have a brand new harness I'm not keen on modifying it so I'm going to have to stick with maintaining both city and country modes on the switch. I think I can accomplish this by using either 2 or 3 relays. It seems kind of complicated so if people can point out any flaws or offer other suggestions I'm all ears. Here is what I think would work: In city mode the light switch energizes terminations 1&4 which route directly to the low beams so I can easily connect the wires from the harness that would have gone to 1&4 on the switch to the powered side of a relay and connect control wires for this relay to terminations 1&4 on the headlight switch. In country mode the light switch energizes terminations 5&9. 5 goes straight to the driver side high beam and 9 goes to the dimmer switch. The power from 9 goes through the dimmer switch to light either the low or the high beam on the passenger side light depending on the position of the switch. In the 2 relay option I'd connect the wires from the harness that would have gone to 5&9 to the powered side of a relay and run a control wire to either or both 5&9 on the headlight switch. In the 3 relay option I'd have a separate relay for both 5&9. Any comments or suggestions on this plan or comments as to how others tackled this would be very welcome. Jeff
  24. A quick update on my sagas: The vendor that accidentally swapped shipping labels on my order contacted me to explain that the shipping charges he was going to reimburse me fore were in the form of a store credit. Mistakes happen so I'm glad that he was forth coming and ultimately both customers received their packages. I tried to use the reimbursement today but the vendor's website stymied me. I contacted the vendor by email and he was most gracious about resolving the issue and will have the part I purchased with the reimbursement in the mail shortly. This vendor did a lot to restore my faith in them but the jury is still out on the website. The vendor that sold me the wrong harness ultimately did good by me as well. I had to send the part back to their supplier and they agreed to pay postage and that I was not responsible for any previous postage or new restocking fees. Unfortunately their vendor took a week after receiving my part to credit my vendor so it took until today before I finally saw my refund. It took some effort but the vendor came through and was pleasant about the whole thing but given that they didn't know what they were selling and the amount of time it took to resolve the issue my faith in this vendor isn't so good. On the third issue that put me over the edge the vendor agreed that they didn't know what they were selling and just credited me for the part and told me to do with it what I would. Issue resolved reasonably. Since I still need a harness I started to work with another vendor to get a harness with some modifications to include turn signals, electric fan and a fuel pump. It took almost 2 weeks to finalize the deal. I guess they are busy but it makes me wonder if I'll get it in about a month as they promised. Ultimately, they have what I need so I'll need to learn to relax and let things happen at their own pace. I also ordered additional parts and apparently the dark cloud of internet shopping continues to haunt me. First paypal gets stuck into thinking I'm not verified and starts sending echecks instead of instant transfers. This adds more delay. I finally see the shipments get sent only to watch USPS re-route multiple packages and what should have made it to me in 2 days took a week. So life goes on and I'm still at least a month away from having parts to put back in my car. I'm very concerned about being able to drive my car to the Back to the 50's show in June but if the wife is content being a garage widow I might still have time to get the car operational again by then. Jeff