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Everything posted by Jeff_Miller

  1. Hi Tom, I faced the same dilemma as you and ultimately decided to mount the seal similar to your option 2. However in my case the seal wasn't big enough to get the channel shown in picture 5 to fit over the edge of the vent so I ended up placing the entire seal inside the edge of the vent. I tried numerous positions and fittings but ultimately it seemed that the flange in picture 4 needed to mate with the inside edge from picture 6 so that any water that made it past the main seal would be directed out the drain hose. I'm not 100% happy with this as it does leave the vent sitting a bit highe
  2. When I got my car it had a big keyed disconnect switch mounted high on the firewall so cables had to come out from under the cab and up the the sidewall and to actuate I had to reach under the glove box to turn the key. This was a bit of a pain, aesthetically it was horrid, and the worst of it was that when it got put in they butchered both the firewall and the firewall insulator. I redid the wiring and replaced the firewall insulator this past year and in doing so I made fixing the ease of use and aesthetics a top priority. I looked at the Flaming River stuff and numerous others and althou
  3. I hooked up the two wires for power and the instrument light side of the instrument switch and the clock lights up without any further ground. That makes me believe the third wire is not a ground. I have also been looking at some schematics that seem to indicate the third wire might actually be to connect to the map light side of the instrument switch. Doing this should cause the clock to illuminate when the instrument switch is set to light the map light as well when it is set to turn on the instrument cluster. I'll be trying some more probes with my multi-meter and expect that I'll try
  4. I'm finishing up the last of my wiring and I see that I either forgot to label on of the three wires from the accessory clock or it fell off. I believe the clock is wired entirely from the instrument/cab lighting switch. One wire from the clock goes to the middle of the switch to get power. One wire from the clock goes to the driver side of the switch to turn on the clocks lamp when the instrument lights are turned on. I'm not sure what the third wire is but I think it is a ground. I tried to use an ohm meter and I do see connectivity from the power to the third wire I suspect to be ground b
  5. I decided to reuse the post from the tank strap to mount the fuel pump strap so the pump is now tucked up above the tank in a nicely protected area. I had some significant issues trying to bend fuel line and finally ended up using a couple of 90 degree fittings to simplify getting an inline fuel filter in front of the pump. That also solved a length issue I was having. The fuel line running to the front of the car was unmodified and is still in its mounting clips. I ran the rubber on the outlet side to overlap by almost 3" mostly because I'm a bit paranoid about how well the hose will seal
  6. Thanks for all the feedback. When I looked through the sender mounting hole in my tank I was surprised that there wasn't anything at all on the pickup so a filter before the pump is definitely in the works. Don, thanks for the picture. I continue to lean toward the bottom of the trunk as a mounting place but I'm still researching. Jeff
  7. I'm adding an inline auxiliary electric fuel pump to help with vapor lock issues and was wondering where others that have done the same thing mounted theirs. Oh yes, the car is a 1936 Special. From what I've read you want to put the pump as close to the tank as possible and also be sure to put it someplace where it is least likely to be hit but something. I am currently eyeing up a flat place under the front passenger side of the trunk. This area is almost directly above the fuel outlet from the tank and it seems to be a very safe place to avoid accidental damage. The one concern I have is
  8. Hmm... took a closer look on this website Dorman 578-007 - Auto Parts Network I measured mine and they are about 25.5" from the bent end to the end of the rod. The Dorman is listed as being 25" in length which is a bit shorter but should work. Mine measure as a 1" width but the Dorman measures 2" in width. I could slice 1" off the bend so that the straps would fit the holes on my frame but I'll have to go look closer to see if having a wider strap would cause issues running across the tank itself. Jeff
  9. I had to drop the tank so that I could put in the new harness and now that the old straps are off it only makes sense to replace them if I can. Does anybody have a good source? It looks to me like the Dorman 578-007 should be an excellent match up but I wondered what others might have found. Jeff
  10. I have a few questions about replacing the generator with an alternator. I can understand the benefits with the more power, integrated regulator, less drag on the engine, etc. but do wonder about what speed you need to be driving before the alternator actually starts to charge. From what I have been reading, it seems that the 1 wire alternators need the alternator to spin at a certain speed before the charging circuit actually starts. I'd hate to be at idle or slow speeds and have the same issues with an alternator that I have with a generator. I am also wondering how the one wire alternato
  11. Thanks for the information B.C. Where did you get the McLaughlin Buick manual? I could really use one of those so that I could try to spot differences before they surprise me. I don't know if McLaughlin had the early and late model differences that the US versions did but the headlight switch and lack of fender lamps on my car makes be believe it is most closely related to the early production US cars. On my car the "cutout relay /voltage regulator" is mounted on the firewall in front of the driver. The "box" has 4 connectors on it. A single connector on one side is labeled GEN and three
  12. I've been studying the new wiring harness I had made and the generator cutout relay wiring is different in the new harness. In both harnesses there are two wires that go to the generator but in the new harness these wires route back to the amp meter and the ground leg of the headlight switch while in my original harness the two wires go to a firewall mounted generator cutout relay and wires from the relay go on to the amp meter and ground. I have to add that my car is a 1936 McLaughlin Buick so I suspect that perhaps the Canadians used the external firewall mounted generator cutout relay whil
  13. Woo Hoo!!! I must have been tired when I was eyeballing the APM-390 and AP-390BK substitutes earlier in the week. Today I started to bolt things together so that I could determine what kind of modifications I might be able to make and to my surprise everything lined up perfectly. So if you don't mind substituting a pedal and bracket from a few years newer these parts will work for a 1936 Buick Special. Jeff
  14. I got the parts today. Although I don't have an original to look at, the APM-390 bracket looks to be a very good candidate. I don't have the lower section on my pedal so I don't know for sure but the mounting holes line up and it is straight at the bottom and that seems to agree with the pictures of an unmolested pedal from the thread above. Unfortunately the pedal is not such a good match. The pedal is AP-390BK and it has a significant angle on the bottom that when attached to APM-390 puts the connector for the accelerator rod several inches away from where it should be. Back to square on
  15. I have only been looking for a few months but I don't believe you will find a replacement. I contemplated trying to repair mine but since I'm missing the mounting bracket I'd also have to replace or create that. I also found that the slip covers are for series 80 and 90 with no indication as to whether those slips also fit a 40. I've decided to invest in an experiment. I talked with Bob and Bob's Automobilia and had him do some measurements of similar parts. It sounds like APM-390 has mounting holes that should fit my floor pan so I ordered that as a replacement for my missing bracket. I
  16. Thanks for drawings. I know exactly what I need now. Jeff
  17. Funny you should ask. I started a thread on this a few days ago. http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1936-special-accelerator-pedal-349213.html
  18. Thanks Greg. I looked through the shop manual a lot but somehow missed that picture. I think that scan answers most of my questions. It really looks like there is a part like that bracket from the 1938 that was used on the 1936 as well. At least that is what I am imagining from that scan. Some pedals that I have been looking at seem to have a spring on the pin that attaches the pedal to the floor but I suspect that the spring on the other side of the firewall would accomplish much the same thing. If you get a chance and it isn't a hassle I'd love to see your pictures when you get back. In
  19. I found these tabs between the wire and the screw head on headlight switch, terminal blocks and other electrical connections. They are so small, corroded, and thin that wire brushing them to ensure I get a good connection is darn near impossible. I'd like to replace them but I'll be darned if I know what they are called or where to look for them. They measure about 3/8" by 1/2" with a tab that bends at a right angle so that it can be inserted in a hole so it doesn't turn when the wire and screw are applied. Jeff
  20. So I found this on Bob's. It is for a 1938 but I wonder if something similar was used on the 1936. Unfortunately my pedal no longer has a tube to put a pin into. Jeff
  21. I'm redoing more sins from the past on my 1936 Special and I'm trying now to determine how exactly the accelerator pedal was originally attached and if I can go back to that. The car has been converted to a push button start but aside from missing the linkage to the vacuum switch everything in the engine bay looks to be original. However, the pedal itself has been modified by having a plate welded onto it and then screwed into the floor. Upon inspecting the floor pan I see that there are capture nuts running vertical from the floor up so I have to imagine that the original pedal was somehow h
  22. In my early reading I found time and again that you want to put the relay as near as possible to the thing that will consume it. That is what led me to originally wanting to put them on the terminal blocks. The challenge in hiding them up there wasn't too appealing but after I realized how funky the factory wiring is I realized it would require me to either modify the stock harness configuration or put 2 relays on each side of the car (total of 4) as well as run a 10 gauge power line to each of the sides of the car. Hmm... I just had a flash of a thought. Those headlights are awful big and
  23. I have seen a few threads about people adding a headlight relay and I wonder at which point in the wiring you did this? I have a new harness coming that follows the original patterns but upgrades the light circuits to 12 gauge. The larger wire should reduce some voltage drop but I also like the idea of using a relay to further reduce drop and reduce wear on the headlight switch. My initial thought was to put relays out at the terminal blocks near the fenders but they would be hard to hide and look out of place. That is ultimately why I up-gauged the light circuits. The next thought was that
  24. A quick update on my sagas: The vendor that accidentally swapped shipping labels on my order contacted me to explain that the shipping charges he was going to reimburse me fore were in the form of a store credit. Mistakes happen so I'm glad that he was forth coming and ultimately both customers received their packages. I tried to use the reimbursement today but the vendor's website stymied me. I contacted the vendor by email and he was most gracious about resolving the issue and will have the part I purchased with the reimbursement in the mail shortly. This vendor did a lot to restore my f
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